This is my first test run through with the rake. Unfortunately, the sunlight did not cooperate and everything has taken on the same basic muted tone that does not do justice to the amount of grass that the rake actually moved. Nonetheless, I have a couple of contrasting pics and you can get the basic idea. IT DID MOVE GRASS!! YEAH!! After all this work I can finally say that I have something to show for my efforts. These pics tell less of the story than what it can really do. The last pic shows a sort of before and after version. The foreground is completely unraked. The background has been raked over twice. The other pics show windrows after I ran over them with the tractor and a closeup of the twice-raked over area
Newest addition to my family of tractor implements
- Thread starter SI2305
- Start date
- Views: 9109
Final pics of new rake
Here it is, the rake in its almost new configuration in action. Sorry if this was a thread violation rule, but I was having trouble getting my posts on the 4th page. Hope you enjoy.
SI2305
Here it is, the rake in its almost new configuration in action. Sorry if this was a thread violation rule, but I was having trouble getting my posts on the 4th page. Hope you enjoy.
SI2305
Attachments
beenthere
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2001
- Messages
- 18,532
- Location
- Southern Wisconsin, USA
- Tractor
- JD_4x2_Gator, JD_4300, JD_425, JD_455 AWS, added JD_455, JD_110, JD_X485(sold)
Re: Final pics of new rake
Top arm looks too long. Looks like you will soon tear it apart with fingers pointed forward like that.
Can't imagine how or why you have trouble posting, as all you need to do is click on "reply" in the combined thread (combination of the first three). Nothing else needs to be done. There is a "Post Reply" lower left button, and there are three choices lower right..."Quote", multiple quote, and "quick reply". Just do the quick reply, and if pics, just go to "Go Advanced". Avoid doing new posts every time. Otherwise your progress is lost in gazillion posts on TBN.
Top arm looks too long. Looks like you will soon tear it apart with fingers pointed forward like that.
Can't imagine how or why you have trouble posting, as all you need to do is click on "reply" in the combined thread (combination of the first three). Nothing else needs to be done. There is a "Post Reply" lower left button, and there are three choices lower right..."Quote", multiple quote, and "quick reply". Just do the quick reply, and if pics, just go to "Go Advanced". Avoid doing new posts every time. Otherwise your progress is lost in gazillion posts on TBN.
magicheater
Veteran Member
Re: Final pics of new rake
As long as the configuration you have does what you want it to it is a success. :thumbsup: We all have different end results in mind when we attach an implement......................
AKfish
Super Member
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2004
- Messages
- 5,419
- Location
- Alaska
- Tractor
- JD 5115M; JD 110 TLB; JD 4720; Ford 9N; JD X300R
Re: Final pics of new rake
It does indeed look like a rake! Very similar to the pine needle rake that jenkinsph's got - only it's a treated 4x4 configuration.
As beenthere pointed out - that's a pretty steep angle - likely poke something's that's not gonna give... and the teeth or the frame will!
Applaud your ingenuity! You done a good job. :thumbsup:
AKfish
It does indeed look like a rake! Very similar to the pine needle rake that jenkinsph's got - only it's a treated 4x4 configuration.
As beenthere pointed out - that's a pretty steep angle - likely poke something's that's not gonna give... and the teeth or the frame will!
Applaud your ingenuity! You done a good job. :thumbsup:
AKfish
Re: Final pics of new rake
to be honest, I don't know why I was having difficulty posting either, all I can honestly say is that when I did click to attach the files, nothing would happen. Can't say I understand, but can only say that it did not do what I wanted it to do.
As for the steepness of the angle, I agree. My next step in refining this is to cut down that top link by at least 4 inches, maybe more and reduce the tremendously steep angle that sits there right now. Although the rake is very usable, one difficulty I have is that it does not raise up very high causing two problems:
1) sometimes I rake up enough material that I have difficulty getting the tines out (I role over them in those cases)
2) on rough terrain, I have to take extra caution so I don't get the tines stabbed into the ground accidentally.
I did want to post a couple of pics though in its functional if not finished condition. The picture I posted here was only about 10-15 feet of raking in an area that did not need it too badly. I chose the area because of the good sunlight and I was in a rush to get my camera.
As it stands now, in its present condition, I typically rake over an area twice. The first time mostly roughs up some of the long clippings that are on the verge of turning into thatch. The first pass loosens them up and in the process, I try to keep my hand on the 3pt lever to constantly monitor and adjust the rake so it is just barely touching the ground.
When I back up and rake over again, the loosened grass now easily collects under the rake and forms some nice, big windrows. I think if I were to just drop the rake and run on the first pass I would seriously dig into the turf.
One aspect I had not anticipated. There are some surprisingly tremendous forces acting on the entire assembly. I have looked back and noticed especially as I first start moving that the 4x4 is undergoing torsion--it actually twists for a moment and then springs back into normal position. I would have thought that the torsion springs would have been sufficient to take this stress, but I guess not.
At any rate, I have raked some pretty huge loads and made a nice, long, tall windrow that I plan on putting raspberries in next spring after a season of decomposing.
Thanks for the comments,
SI2305
to be honest, I don't know why I was having difficulty posting either, all I can honestly say is that when I did click to attach the files, nothing would happen. Can't say I understand, but can only say that it did not do what I wanted it to do.
As for the steepness of the angle, I agree. My next step in refining this is to cut down that top link by at least 4 inches, maybe more and reduce the tremendously steep angle that sits there right now. Although the rake is very usable, one difficulty I have is that it does not raise up very high causing two problems:
1) sometimes I rake up enough material that I have difficulty getting the tines out (I role over them in those cases)
2) on rough terrain, I have to take extra caution so I don't get the tines stabbed into the ground accidentally.
I did want to post a couple of pics though in its functional if not finished condition. The picture I posted here was only about 10-15 feet of raking in an area that did not need it too badly. I chose the area because of the good sunlight and I was in a rush to get my camera.
As it stands now, in its present condition, I typically rake over an area twice. The first time mostly roughs up some of the long clippings that are on the verge of turning into thatch. The first pass loosens them up and in the process, I try to keep my hand on the 3pt lever to constantly monitor and adjust the rake so it is just barely touching the ground.
When I back up and rake over again, the loosened grass now easily collects under the rake and forms some nice, big windrows. I think if I were to just drop the rake and run on the first pass I would seriously dig into the turf.
One aspect I had not anticipated. There are some surprisingly tremendous forces acting on the entire assembly. I have looked back and noticed especially as I first start moving that the 4x4 is undergoing torsion--it actually twists for a moment and then springs back into normal position. I would have thought that the torsion springs would have been sufficient to take this stress, but I guess not.
At any rate, I have raked some pretty huge loads and made a nice, long, tall windrow that I plan on putting raspberries in next spring after a season of decomposing.
Thanks for the comments,
SI2305
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Re: Final pics of new rake
In looking at that toplink, I noticed a couple of things, One you do not have it adjusted in as much as possible, so that is a 15 second fix, but I also noticed you have a set of Pats Quick Hitch on which normally adds a couple of inches to your lower links, which usually means you need to lengthen your top link, But that top link looks really really long, I am starting to wonder if that is the original toplink? Or did that come off of a larger tractor? Shorten it up as much as possible, and see how that looks/works but maybe go get a shorter one if that does not get you where you need to be?
James K0UA
In looking at that toplink, I noticed a couple of things, One you do not have it adjusted in as much as possible, so that is a 15 second fix, but I also noticed you have a set of Pats Quick Hitch on which normally adds a couple of inches to your lower links, which usually means you need to lengthen your top link, But that top link looks really really long, I am starting to wonder if that is the original toplink? Or did that come off of a larger tractor? Shorten it up as much as possible, and see how that looks/works but maybe go get a shorter one if that does not get you where you need to be?
James K0UA
Re: Final pics of new rake
You are absolutely right about the length of the top link. When I was making it, I was just not certain how high up it needed to be. I took some rough measurements from my middle buster and deliberately erred on the long side. I can always cut some off, but putting new material back in place is not going to work. By having it long, I can take off bit by bit until it is just the right length.
Also, one mention about the teeth. They are deliberately pointed forward. In a previous test, I found that if they were simply pointed straight down, as they made contact with grass and ground they all too easily bent back as their torsion springs were designed to do. In this version, they point forward and I can use the 3pt control to "fly" the tines just under the layer of grass. Naturally, the tines will eventually come into contact with the ground, a thick tuft of grass or even a rock or lump. In this case, because the teeth have built-in torsion springs, they simply bend backwards easily, slide over the object and continue on as before.
Thanks for the comments, they are quite helpful, in large part because they are confirming what I was already thinking about doing. This is a work in progress--a functional one, but incomplete nonetheless. Right now I am trying to rig up a system that will allow me to disconnect the top link, rotate the rake 90 deg and use my miter saw to make quick, precise changes to get just the right amount of top link off.
As always, thanks for all your advice and comments
SI2305
You are absolutely right about the length of the top link. When I was making it, I was just not certain how high up it needed to be. I took some rough measurements from my middle buster and deliberately erred on the long side. I can always cut some off, but putting new material back in place is not going to work. By having it long, I can take off bit by bit until it is just the right length.
Also, one mention about the teeth. They are deliberately pointed forward. In a previous test, I found that if they were simply pointed straight down, as they made contact with grass and ground they all too easily bent back as their torsion springs were designed to do. In this version, they point forward and I can use the 3pt control to "fly" the tines just under the layer of grass. Naturally, the tines will eventually come into contact with the ground, a thick tuft of grass or even a rock or lump. In this case, because the teeth have built-in torsion springs, they simply bend backwards easily, slide over the object and continue on as before.
Thanks for the comments, they are quite helpful, in large part because they are confirming what I was already thinking about doing. This is a work in progress--a functional one, but incomplete nonetheless. Right now I am trying to rig up a system that will allow me to disconnect the top link, rotate the rake 90 deg and use my miter saw to make quick, precise changes to get just the right amount of top link off.
As always, thanks for all your advice and comments
SI2305
Re: Final pics of new rake
The metal toplink is a screw (the piece of metal attached to the tractor), just twist the middle section to make it shorter! No need to make any cuts!!! Screw it shorter and see how the tines looked....