HJC, thanks for getting back. I was almost ready to back down with no support on this thread. Now FWJ and me are tied, each with (1) other supporter. As long as you get away from the 3-point type of disc, you will be taking a step up when it comes to effectiveness. Certain make/models of 3-points may offer a bit of an improvement over yours, but I wouldnt expect much in hard soil. If you dont have a lot of rocks, and your plots are smaller, a tiller may work better. Most folks who think 3-point discs are effective lack experience with tillers and/or pull-type discs. Once they try one of them, they seldom go back to the 3-point disc. A smaller group (FWJ?) says they are effective in order to pass them off on un-knowing foodplotters and gardeners. The many passes it is taking you now to get the job done is simply the nature of the beast when it comes to a 3-point disc. I imagine you have tried every adjustment possible over the last several years (various angles, top link all the way in or out, etc) to no avail. I wouldnt get too hung up on that offset, pull-type as it may overload your tractor a bit. Oftentimes, old "drag" discs like my JD and Bissell can be had for scrap value, which no doubt is all they are worth according to FWJ. Some of us do know better however. Thanks to you and I there will be a few more finding out too.
Restoration of an old disc, any advice?
- Thread starter HCJtractor
- Start date
- Views: 16143
MtnViewRanch
Elite Member, Advertiser
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2005
- Messages
- 10,643
- Tractor
- Mahindra 7520, Mahindra 3215HST, Case 580 extendahoe, Case 310 dozer, Parsons trencher, Cat D6,
wolc123, I will ask again, would you please show some pictures of your current setup? Here is what I use, mine are old John Deere-Kilfer disks. Weigh in at a little over 100lbs per 22" blade. Usually cut 7"-9" deep when I disk, sometimes a little more if I end up going over the same place multiple times. I use them for fire & brush control and do not care if the ground is flat and or even. I typically use our old Cat D6 to pull the 12 footer and my Mahindra 7520 to pull the 8 footer.
Attachments
Mtn, sorry no pictures (I aint all that good with computer stuff). My JD is significantly lighter than those in you photos and I almost always use a plow prior. Except in the spring, when I disc up the last years corn to take out the cultivator ridges. Can I count you on the side that likes the pull-types, "drag", etc better?
MtnViewRanch
Elite Member, Advertiser
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2005
- Messages
- 10,643
- Tractor
- Mahindra 7520, Mahindra 3215HST, Case 580 extendahoe, Case 310 dozer, Parsons trencher, Cat D6,
Actually no, and the reason is that I have never used a 3pt disk, so I can not honestly say that one is better than another. Yes I like my pull type disks for what I do and for my circumstances. :thumbsup: I will say though that a neighbor 3 places over seems to have very good results with his 3pt tandem disk for his horse ranch.
The reason I wanted to see some pics is so that everyone would know just what type, size, weight that we are comparing. I will say that I have seen a large size 20'? newer tandem disk that I had seen being used that I did not like the finished results that I was seeing. So just because it is new does not make it good.
Farmwithjunk
Super Member
"some of us know better"....so when are you going to say ANYTHING that proves that statement?
And there's a reason why old drag disc's sell for scrap value or less.....
Wow....STILL no one that actually believes the nonsense you're hung up on.
MMagis
Veteran Member
I''l break that tie. You knew I couldn't ignore this, I'm sure. I can't say anything that FWJ hasn't, and he's more knowledgeable than me, but like I mention every time you spew this garbage, you are wrong. High school physics taught us that you're wrong, common sense tells us you're wrong, and experience tells us you're wrong. Equal or greater amounts of work can not be done with less force exerted. It's that simple. You claim every "real farmer agrees with you, but I think you're not telling the whole story. I'm guessing they agree that they need a transport disk rather than a 3pt, but that's a no brainer. No full time farmer can get work done with a 7 disk, they're using disks 20 and up. How many have agreed that one type of disk does more work but uses less fuel than the other? None, I'm sure. Now you come here and start really piling the fertilizer on. Better yields? That's laughable. When someone says they can't get a 3pt disk to work, it's almost a guarantee that they don't have it set up properly, and it usually comes down to having the top link much too short. Anyone having 3pt disk problems, and willing to give something a shot, try extending your top link as far as it will go. If it won't let the rear gangs hang much lower than the front when lifted, get a longer top link. I adjust mine so low that it only clears the ground by a few inches when lifted, though I don't know if everyone's needs to be like that. I think you'll be very happy with your results.
One other quick note that may have already been mentioned (I didn't read every post), soil moisture plays a big role in how well a disk works as well. Too dry or too wet, and you won't get the results you want. Not to mention disking in wet conditions is a sure way to create hardpan.
OP
HCJtractor
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2009
- Messages
- 1,519
- Location
- upstate South Carolina, Greenville
- Tractor
- Kubota M6800, Massey Ferguson 240
I finally pulled this old disc out into the light of day. It is a Series 166, as stated on the frame. I have not had a chance to actually pull it to see if the gangs will spin freely. The wheels are shot, all rusted out, with the tube showing. So it definitely will need new wheels and tires. The discs really look decent, except for one broken on the outside rear. I guess there is no reason not to pull it and see what happens, even without the transport wheels. What do you guys think about this and where would you start? What would you expect it needs to get it going?
And, do you think I have enough tractor to pull it? (70 horse Kubota M- 6800 4 WD with loaded rears). The owner basically will let me do whatever with it (he has no need for it as he has way nicer implements) He stops short of giving it to me but I can use it as if it were mine. He also has an old Allis Chalmers 4 row planter, but that is another up-coming thread.
And, do you think I have enough tractor to pull it? (70 horse Kubota M- 6800 4 WD with loaded rears). The owner basically will let me do whatever with it (he has no need for it as he has way nicer implements) He stops short of giving it to me but I can use it as if it were mine. He also has an old Allis Chalmers 4 row planter, but that is another up-coming thread.
Attachments
kubotakid USA
Silver Member
If hes not giving it to you,...Id be sharpening my pencel, and figuring all parts before starting, Hopefully the blades turn and you dont need a pile of gang bearings, cuz even generic bearings are $$$$, Id pump em full of grease and see if they roll, Before I started tearing into it,.. Id see If he will pay for parts, or split the parts bill, If you end up rebuilding that, Its also a WHOLE LOTS a labor , And If its not gona be yours when your all done,....Iam just sayin,. Eric
MtnViewRanch
Elite Member, Advertiser
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2005
- Messages
- 10,643
- Tractor
- Mahindra 7520, Mahindra 3215HST, Case 580 extendahoe, Case 310 dozer, Parsons trencher, Cat D6,
If he is not giving it to you and is not willing to pay for the parts, I would just leave it be. I'm sure that it needs new disk blades, those look like they are about warn out from what size should be on there,(probably 24" pans) and everything else that it needs, you will be into it for well over a grand and that is a lot of work and money to put into an implement that isn't even yours. I don't know what your ground or terrain are like, but I doubt that your tractor is going to pull that disk when it is disking earth up to the axles. Yes you can use the transport wheels to control that, but don't you really want to be able to disk to full depth?
Just my opinion, but from the looks and sound of the deal, I would just pass.
Just my :2cents: good luck with whatever you decide to do.
I'm sure that it needs new disk blades, those look like they are about warn out from what size should be on there,(probably 24" pans) and everything else that it needs, you will be into it for well over a grand and that is a lot of work and money to put into an implement that isn't even yours. I don't know what your ground or terrain are like, but I doubt that your tractor is going to pull that disk when it is disking earth up to the axles. Yes you can use the transport wheels to control that, but don't you really want to be able to disk to full depth?Just my opinion, but from the looks and sound of the deal, I would just pass.
Just my :2cents: good luck with whatever you decide to do.
franklinute
Silver Member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2008
- Messages
- 184
Hey I do have that exact same disc. I would try to pull it and see what happens. Just set up your trial so that you go straight and turn your tractor to the left. If you turn to the right with the lift not working it will really dig in and put a big load on the tractor. The discs are almost gone so it won't go very deep but the angle of the axles is set very aggressive so you will be turning lots of sod over. I would try it out before I attempt to grease it. Being abandoned this long whatever grease is in there is dry and hard. If you try to grease later I would suggest to replace each grease fitting with a new one. Watch out for wasps they like to nest in the access holes. Just be sure non of the discs are loose or wobbly on the axle.
