When I adust the tilt link adjustment, AND lock the assembly with the locking nut, the assembly will move a LOT during normal brush hog use - allowing the right side of the mower to drop 3-4 inches in an hour of use. If I use a HUGE wrench (14") to really clamp the locking nut to the top of the adjusting cylinder it will stay - but this is a huge amount of force to have to deal with all the time. Does anyone else have this problem and what did they do to stop the creep? I don't need to adjust it that often so a hydraulic adjust isn't warranted. But it gets very annoying having to constantly adjust it under normal operations.
3-Point Hitch Problem maintaining Lift Link Adjustment
- Thread starter rjrhoades
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Tractor Seabee
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I fought the same problem. Surplus Center, Surplus Center - Hydraulics, Engines, Electrical and More, has one with a tee handle in the middle of the barrell and a locking dog on one end. I just ordered one. A friend said that was the way to go. As far as I know no one else has one that short. Kubota is unique on that. I had bought a longer one but it wouldn't go short enough for some adjustments. My dealer says "what's wrong with a factory approved assembly"? He doesn't have to do this stuff in the mud, snow, snd rain.
Ron
Ron
LD1
Epic Contributor
The locking nut has always worked for me. But I do like the last method of fix. A quick and easy job with a peice of wire or something.
Tractor Seabee
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R J,
Page 130, item 1-3131, bottom of page, 18.95 + shipping
If they did not secure their catalog I would send you a copy, and if I could figure out to add attachments to this forum.
Mine will be here next week and I will post an opinion. Surplus Center is a great place to shop. Their Tech people are very helpful on the phone.
Ron
Is it possible this is a symptom of too much vibration, like maybe the PTO shaft is bent or out of balance, or a cross joint is badly worn?
Does the cylinder separate from the nut, or are both moving together? If they're moving together you could either use a locknut in place of the existing regular nut, or put a second nut on and jamb the two nuts together so they provide the resistance to turning. If the cylinder and nut are separating, then safety wiring would probably be the way to go.
tungularafishcamp
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If you dont adjust it often, what about using blue threadlock?
k0ua
Epic Contributor
So you use the toplink for the side arm link? I am confused.