Clutch Noise

[blueriver]

I have another video posted in the thread about my Branson clutch noise ... though I'd put up a second one so more folks could listen to it.

I had a new clutch, pressure plate and Throw out bearing put in this spring, then a short while later it stopped shifting, the dealer had me adjust the free play then a noise developed and then went away and now its back.

I think its clutch related ... tell me what you think.

Video - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting

 

[Zork]

IMO: Your video does not give enough view of the situation. Need more video and sound with the operators foot off of the clutch pedal and then normal operation of the clutch. I can't tell if you are at idle or mid/full throttle. Repeat this video with slow and faster idle speeds and longer duration with the camera making the operators foot operation visible.

First: Make sure that you have some free play in the clutch linkage. This will allow us to tell the difference in sounds that may or may not be related.

Second: Perform new video with "no" pressure on clutch; "no" pressure and a slowly pressing to full clutch and full release, and "no" pressure and fast pressing to full clutch and full release (do this several times). Included in the same video a "slight" pressure on the clutch (riding the clutch) and full release; "slight" pressure and slow pressing to full clutch and full release, and "slight" pressure and fast pressing to full clutch and full release.

(edit) Is that a new clutch as in "NEW" or "REBUILT"? and looking at the throwout bearing assembly of the 3820 it has a very similar hub to some old Chevrolet's with the press on/off bearing. If you do the work yourself or small shop see if it can match cross reference the size with a better quality (assumed) bearing.

 

[blueriver]

Okay, I'll work on that. This noise only comes about 50% of the time and never under 1500 rpm's... bump the throttle to 2000 and noise about 50% of the time.

When it does its just at the point of engagement when the tractor is just ready to move. Only when releasing not depressing, and if I let it out fast no noise...

The tractor recently had a clutch, pressure plate and T.O. Bearing installed at the dealer ... shortly after that it stopped shifting with the shuttle, per the dealer I adjusted the freeplay so it would shift smooth with the shuttle ... a few hrs later this noise devolped.

I was scheduled to take it in a few months back and the noise mysteriously stopped ... now its back.

I am thinking its clutch related ... don't know.

 

[Fixemall]

So they didn't have it adjusted right and it was not running true when you got it back? It is painfully obvious that the throwout is smoked again.

 

[blueriver]

So they didn't have it adjusted right and it was not running true when you got it back? It is painfully obvious that the throwout is smoked again.

Not according to them ... it was done right and it must be something else other than clutch, plate or T.O. bearing... the clutch petal only moved an inch before the tractor moved forward ... it used to move about half way.

Is proper adjustment (or lack of) the reason the throwout would be smoked ...

 

[Zork]

Is proper adjustment (or lack of) the reason the throwout would be smoked ...

Could be but also, IMO, I think using the clutch at full operating rpm can be an additional practice that will cause the bearing to fail. For me I always throttle down 99% of the time when using the clutch except when I mow and have to go forward/reverse frequently, but that is infrequent most of the time.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Not according to them ... it was done right and it must be something else other than clutch, plate or T.O. bearing... the clutch petal only moved an inch before the tractor moved forward ... it used to move about half way.

Is proper adjustment (or lack of) the reason the throwout would be smoked ...

This indicates too much freeplay in pedal. NOT harmful to the throwout, but could cause dragging clutch/hard shifting.
larry

 

[blueriver]

Could be but also, IMO, I think using the clutch at full operating rpm can be an additional practice that will cause the bearing to fail. For me I always throttle down 99% of the time when using the clutch except when I mow and have to go forward/reverse frequently, but that is infrequent most of the time.

This tractor is on the round baler, therefore the full pto rpm is used. When the chamber is full I reverse as I am tying the bale then open the gate to eject the bale, close the gate shift to forward and make the next bale.

The rpm's stay at pto speed for all clutching and shifting ... quess I need to re-evaluate this.

 

[blueriver]

This indicates too much freeplay in pedal. NOT harmful to the throwout, but could cause dragging clutch/hard shifting.
larry

Okay ... so why would it come back from the dealer set up this way? And yes the shifting of the shuttle stopped ... when I called the dealer he had me adjust it in the hay field until the shuttle shifted smooth ... didn't take much .. the pedal released about 1.5" before it engaged and the shuttle shifted smoothly ... then a couple hrs this noise.

 

[Fixemall]

I have a sign in my shop that says " I do it right or I don't do it" maybe they would like one. The only proper way to replace a clutch assembly for maximum longevity is to have the flywheel trued and balanced and replace the pressure plate, clutch disc, fork and bearing. All components must also be assembled clean(I once had to redo a job that was compromised because the tech dropped the bearing prior to install) Proper adjustment after replacement is also key. The slightest misalignment will shorten service life.