Leak with frost free hydrant

[drsatchvet]

I installed an new frost free hydrant last Sunday and I left it uncovered to make sure there were no leaks. The hydrant works fine in the on position, but when I push the lever down to stop the flow of water and force the standing water out the drainage spout, the water is forced out of the spout but there is a small leak which is coming from the drainage spout. This is long after the standing water has been discharged. If I hold my finger over the spout, I stop the drip. Is there an adjustment to make to make the rubber seal tighter?

 

[SandburRanch]

I installed an new frost free hydrant last Sunday and I left it uncovered to make sure there were no leaks. The hydrant works fine in the on position, but when I push the lever down to stop the flow of water and force the standing water out the drainage spout, the water is forced out of the spout but there is a small leak which is coming from the drainage spout. This is long after the standing water has been discharged. If I hold my finger over the spout, I stop the drip. Is there an adjustment to make to make the rubber seal tighter?

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I've never had to adjust a new hydrant but have on re-builds if replacement parts weren't up to standard.

On this one I found that by loosening the ( set screw ? without going to look ) and pushing the rod down until the rubber plunger could be felt firmly contacting the seat, then moving the handle so the padlock hole in the end was about where the circle is and setting the set screw it seals off good.

Too tight and the rubber plunger gets cut over a period of time. It doesn't take all that much force to make it seal. I can hold down on the rod by hand and seal up to 40 lb. pressure to add packing and not shut the water supply off.

 

[grsthegreat]

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I've never had to adjust a new hydrant but have on re-builds if replacement parts weren't up to standard.

On this one I found that by loosening the ( set screw ? without going to look ) and pushing the rod down until the rubber plunger could be felt firmly contacting the seat, then moving the handle so the padlock hole in the end was about where the circle is and setting the set screw it seals off good.

Too tight and the rubber plunger gets cut over a period of time. It doesn't take all that much force to make it seal. I can hold down on the rod by hand and seal up to 40 lb. pressure to add packing and not shut the water supply off.

I have the same brand, and ive had to do that also. You can actually pull out all the guts from these withoug digging up the ground. But personally id pull the one you installed and get a replacement. It pisses me off to no end when a NEW item doesnt work.

 

[SandburRanch]

I have the same brand, and ive had to do that also. You can actually pull out all the guts from these withoug digging up the ground.

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Yes, you can pull out the guts after removing the head and if a careful length measurement is recorded a person may not need to do an adjustment. That is if the new rubber plunger is the same length and the head is screwed back on the same number of turns that was required to remove it.

 

[Gary Fowler]

If it is new and you still have it opened in the trench, just unscrew and take it back. You shouldnt need to adjust a new one. When replacing the internal seals you would have to adjust the stroke if the new seals werent exactly like the old ones. Had to adjust one of my BIL's a couple of months ago when we replaced the seals and they were slightly different length from the old one.

 

[Kays Supply]

It also depends on what kind of pipe you put it on. If it is a new install, pipe shavings from cutting or dirt can get compressed into the tip and make it leak.

 

[SandburRanch]

It also depends on what kind of pipe you put it on. If it is a new install, pipe shavings from cutting or dirt can get compressed into the tip and make it leak.

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and my rusty pipes will too if I don't flush um.