Loader snow plow problems

[Morning Wood]

So, I built a mount for an old 6' Meyer for my 1720 ford. It works pretty well in straight position, but when I angle the blade the leading edge tends to dig in on softer surfaces. I should try to get some pics up to show the specifics. I basically lift the plow by using the tilt on the bucket with a chain on the plow. I use the loader arms to set the height I the a frame. And I try to keep the a frame level. If the a frame is to high then the edge digs in badly. Had anyone else had any issues with their setups similar to this? I wonder I'd the lack of suspension on the tractor is causing the plow to act like this. I was thinking that the holes that the a frame pin to maybe should actually be vertical slots to allow the plow to have more play in the ends up and down. Any thoughts on this? Thanks, Nick.

 

[Rustyiron]

Sounds like you need to play with the loader arm height and maybe get a set of skid shoes until the ground freezes. Keep in mind that a plow on a truck is mounted very low, 8"-12" and generally the push frame of the plow should be close to level with the ground.
They are calling for 6"-10" here tonight!

 

[PILOON]

You need the pusher arms to be parallel to the ground.
I think that some sort of leg under the loader (one central should do) terminated in a skid or shoe should do the trick.
On plow trucks you will notice that they always provide 3 holes to select in order to accomplish that function.
Hope this helps.

 

[Morning Wood]

So basically you guys are saying that the aframe of the plow needs to remain level. I figured that was the problem. It is really tough to consistantly maintain the loader arms so the plow is level. Might have to try that skid shoe deal. Only problem is that the skid shoe would be great for float mode, but float mode and pushing snow don't really combine.

 

[Rustyiron]

Send some pics. Hopefully you mounted the plow so that it is able to move up and down (without the loader arms moving) just like if it were mounted on a tk. If you made a ridgid mount, I think that you will need to change it. I've seen guys weld a couple of pairs of tabs in their bucket (to pin the plow frame to) and use a chain to lift the blade when you curl the bucket back.

 

[grsthegreat]

dont mean to hyjack the thread, but im going to be using my loader mounted front snow plow for the first time this winter, and i had assumed that i was to leave it in the float position. Is this NOT correct? I have hydraulic rotator and skid shoes.

 

[Morning Wood]

Might work for you might not. what generally happens is you end up pushing so much snow that the front wheels of the tractor get driven up off the ground. the loader arms basically get forced to drop all the way, but the loader is already on the ground so the front of the tractor goes up. If you have a heavier tractor might not be an issue with light snows. Otherwise I don't think you'll have much luck using it. With some practice you can figure out what you need to do. A frame always level though apparently.

 

[RonMar]

So basically you guys are saying that the aframe of the plow needs to remain level. I figured that was the problem. It is really tough to consistantly maintain the loader arms so the plow is level. Might have to try that skid shoe deal. Only problem is that the skid shoe would be great for float mode, but float mode and pushing snow don't really combine.

A picture of your setup would be worth a thousand questions Setup properly, the plow is either in the air, or down running on the skid shoes with the loader in float. The skid shoes maintain proper blade height above the ground... The truck mounted units usually have a hydraulic jack and arm affair like a small engine hoist. The end of the arm connects to the A frame with a chain. Up lifts the chain and aframe, and down lowers the aframe onto the ground and slacks the chain which provides your aframe freedom to float with the plow blade running on it's skids.

What is your aframe attached to, the tractor frame or the loader bucket? IF the tractor frame, as mentioned the aframe should be parallel with the ground, and the blade rides on it's skids when plowing. If the aframe is mounted to the bucket, set the bucket dump angle so the aframe is parallel to the ground, and lower the bucket arms till the skids are on the ground and then kick the loader up/down into float... With the loader bucket so far ahead of the front wheels, trying to maintain a constant bucket distance from the ground over varying terrain is virtually impossible unless you are in creeper gear, and that would make for a long night of plowing

Good Luck.

 

[SSdoxie]

A-frame must be parrallel to gound to keep blade level when you angle it. One way to birng you loader arms back to that same poistion consistently would be to find that position on the loader, measure the distance from base end of lift cylinder to the rod end and clamp a channel that length over the rod for a cylinder stop.

 

[Rustyiron]

dont mean to hyjack the thread, but im going to be using my loader mounted front snow plow for the first time this winter, and i had assumed that i was to leave it in the float position. Is this NOT correct? I have hydraulic rotator and skid shoes.

It depends on how your plow is built. I have a "store bought" Snow Wolf blade that is ridgidly attached to the (SS quick attach) loader arms and yes, set the loader arms in "float". The OP said that he had built a blade from an old Myers blade, in that case (without having any pics) I believe that the proper suggestions were made. I converted a truck snow blade for a buddy a few years ago and we built it in such a way that it would float independantly of the loader arms and I really like it's action better than the big bucks store bought one that I have. The loader arms offer a good bit of resistance and are heavy causing IMHO too much resistance/down pressure for normal snow plowing. Did you get your chains yet? You'll love 'em.:thumbsup: