96" rear blade too big for a 4310?

[Tim640]

I'll be using my 4310 for some light grading and spreading, as well as snow removal (when we get snow).

As far as I can think, I've got a 300' ditch along the road to smooth out, and I'll need to spread and level the fill for a 40x38 pad under the barn I'll be building. And I've got some gravel to spread, here and there.

I've got an option to buy a Woods 96" blade in nice shape. I'm wondering if it isn't too big though. I'm guessing that a 7' blade would be about ideal.

I'd welcome anyone's thoughts.

 

[JD 4520]

It may be too big but also depending on how you use it. I imagine that your wheel base is not much more than 60" Can you give it a try before you buy since you must know the seller?

If you think that it is really good deal you could probably sell it just as easy if you later decided its not the one you want.

 

[RoyJackson]

If it's a good price, I'd buy it and try it out. If it turns out to be too big, you can always cut 6" or so off both ends.

As far as being too big...I don't think you'll cut much depth when grading...but the soil type will also be a factor.

As far as snow...should do OK. BTW, Tim, there have been some posts over the years (and a couple this year) about pushing the blade in reverse. Pushing can result in damage to your lower links. There were at least one or two posts that mentioned that specifically...damaged links. I used to push with a 72" blade, but after reading those posts (5 or 6 years ago), I started pulling the blade. The weight of the tractor does compress the snow, but the blade still does it's job. Also, if you recall dfkrug's comments (in your first thread...not this one) about the aluminum castings and the repair to one of the lower link attach points...well, no use pushing our luck, eh?

One downside of using a blade is no down pressure. Sometimes they ride up over frozen, well packed snow.

 

[Tim640]

As far as snow...should do OK. BTW, Tim, there have been some posts over the years (and a couple this year) about pushing the blade in reverse. Pushing can result in damage to your lower links. There were at least one or two posts that mentioned that specifically...damaged links. I used to push with a 72" blade, but after reading those posts (5 or 6 years ago), I started pulling the blade. The weight of the tractor does compress the snow, but the blade still does it's job. Also, if you recall dfkrug's comments (in your first thread...not this one) about the aluminum castings and the repair to one of the lower link attach points...well, no use pshin our luck, eh?

Good advice, I appreciate your pointing that out Roy.

 

[JB4310]

IMO it will be way to big except for very light grading and very light snow work.

I've got a 6 foot rear blade on my 4310 and it will stop the tractor in it's tracks. Was using it today on heavy wet snow, only 8 inches deep and since I didn't have my chains on yet it did not pull well at all.

IMO rear blade is only good for snow removal, for dirt work box blade or york rake are better. Not sure what you have to do in the ditch but for leveling and dressing up a building site I would do the rough work with the loader and then dress it with a york rake with gauge wheels.

I was surprised at how well the rake works, they are capable of moving alot of material, and they self level especially with the wheels, unlike the rear blade. Much easier to use and more forgiving.

Think about this, if you were to level an area with hand tools, how would you do it? With a hoe or a rake?
I think the rear blade was more suited to tractors before the FEL became so prevalent. I'm sure there are certain dirt work applications the rear blade is perfectly suited for, but I haven't found one yet.

JB

 

[pacerron]

If it's a good price, I'd buy it and try it out. If it turns out to be too big, you can always cut 6" or so off both ends.

As far as being too big...I don't think you'll cut much depth when grading...but the soil type will also be a factor.

As far as snow...should do OK. BTW, Tim, there have been some posts over the years (and a couple this year) about pushing the blade in reverse. Pushing can result in damage to your lower links. There were at least one or two posts that mentioned that specifically...damaged links. I used to push with a 72" blade, but after reading those posts (5 or 6 years ago), I started pulling the blade. The weight of the tractor does compress the snow, but the blade still does it's job. Also, if you recall dfkrug's comments (in your first thread...not this one) about the aluminum castings and the repair to one of the lower link attach points...well, no use pushing our luck, eh?

One downside of using a blade is no down pressure. Sometimes they ride up over frozen, well packed snow.

If you turn your blade to one of the preset angles it will effectively become
less wide. If you don't do that going forward you will build up a jam of snow between the blade and the back of the tractor.
Roy may have a point about cutting any depth but that is not what a grader blade is really designed to do. I use mine on a quarter mile gravel driveway and can get some cut to level the hump that builds in the middle of gravel and clay by using the draft control, when the stuff is not brick hard. Too make the gravel look like a freshly spread new load in the summer you can't beat a landscape rake.
For snow, if you are doing gravel, you really don't want to grade the gravel away into your grass, so you need to set the blade to be an inch or two above the gravel surface. on a level spot and leave it alone unless your front end goes up an incline and you start digging in. A blade is frustrating to use, just like a bulldozer or any other equipment until you get some practice and figure out how damp the soil should be for a grading project.

 

[jd110]

Be sure the blade is set up for category1. Most 96" blades are designed for Cat 2 or 3. Those would be too heavy for a 4310 to even lift, let alone pull it with a load. In my opinion, a 72" is plenty for 4310.

 

[beenthere]

I'd say it will be too big and cumbersome to work well on the 4310. Some of that may be overcome by a TNT system to get good control when needed. But am thinking you will be happier with a lighter and shorter blade. One with depth gauge wheels would be helpful too.

 

[Tim640]

I was wondering about the weight of it - it's about 530 lbs, and a category 1/2. Upon reading the comments here, and further research, it does look like it's too big.

I'll look for a 72". I do want something with angle, tilt, and offset, and I'm looking at the Land Pride RB25 series, as well as the Woods RB series.

JB - I expect I'll get a box blade as well, pretty soon. I figured I'd start with the straight blade, so I'm ready for winter. And play around with that in the dirt, find the limits of what it's good for.

The Land Pride RB25xx says it's "Landscape Rake adaptable". Does this mean the blade can be replaced with tines?

 

[RoyJackson]

I was wondering about the weight of it - it's about 530 lbs, and a category 1/2. Upon reading the comments here, and further research, it does look like it's too big.

The Land Pride RB25xx says it's "Landscape Rake adaptable". Does this mean the blade can be replaced with tines?

You can handle that weight with no problem...your 3PH capacity is close to a ton, IIRC...

Land Pride makes a rake that has a flip down grader blade...cool implement..bit pricey though.

So, when are we going to see pics of your new 4310?