obdII meter code questions - egr sensor

Short Game · Nov 3, 2011

Just in for lunch after doing morning chores.

I buy lots of sockets at thrift stores. I stay home on weekends and miss all the garage sales these days. I'm sure I can find the sacrificial socket in my collection. I will rush out there with my meter to "ohm it" as soon as I've stuffed my face.

If it is necessary, I think I could get a box end on the sensor if I removed the heat shield. I'd rather leave that alone if I can. Thanks for the tip on it being a 7/8". When I started wearing glasses, I lost the life-long ability to just look at a bolt or nut and instantly know the size. As my prescription gets stronger, the nuts look bigger.

No Harbor Freights anywhere I go.

mmurphy · Nov 3, 2011

Short Game said:
When I started wearing glasses, I lost the life-long ability to just look at a bolt or nut and instantly know the size. As my prescription gets stronger, the nuts look bigger..

Trick to that is get the size you think it is, then carry the next 2 sizes smaller and bigger!

As for another thought, sometimes unplugging and cleaning connectors may also be enough.

Car Doc · Nov 3, 2011

Short Game said:
I buy lots of sockets at thrift stores. I stay home on weekends and miss all the garage sales these days. I'm sure I can find the sacrificial socket in my collection. I will rush out there with my meter to "ohm it" as soon as I've stuffed my face.

If it is necessary, I think I could get a box end on the sensor if I removed the heat shield. I'd rather leave that alone if I can.

No Harbor Freights anywhere I go.

Yes leave the heat shield alone if possible those bolts break and leave you with a heck of an engine compartment rattle.

Any parts house should have the o2 sockets Oreillys the zone pep girlz...

A 6 pt deep will be stronger than a 12 and hold better on this so if you are cutting up deep sockets and have a choice cut the 6 pt.

I do the same thing with cheap sockets and wrenches haha they get made into all sorts of "special tools" I have a special drawer for the raw materials.

Short Game · Nov 3, 2011

Yuppers, all the heat shield bolts are busy combining with oxygen. All of them are may-pops, if not sure-pops.

As for the ohm-sweet-ohm-ing, it was all very confusing. Green and white read open to ground with one lead to ground, and zero ohms when the other lead is to ground. Same with the blacks, though the blacks were opposite of the green and white when I reversed the leads. In other words, when the grounded lead was such that the green and white were open, the blacks were shorts, and vice verse when the grounded lead was changed. Looks like I'm reading through some diodes. But sometimes, not every time, when I hooked up across the plug pins, I got a resistance that started at about 30 ohms and climbed slow and steady to over 300 before I gave up. It looked like a moving target. Sometimes it was open across the pins, an sometimes a short. Couldn't seem to get any consistency. When I was in doubt, to eliminate the meter, I'd try shorting the leads and it always read short. Are sensors supposed to make sense?

I put it all back and the light is still on. I decided the best thing to do at this point is have an IPA.

Soundguy · Nov 3, 2011

yep.. every yard sale I hit usually has an old wrench or socket set for a buck.. I buy em all and use those to cut ot bend up.

ps.. if you search really hard.. you can find some 7/8 sockets for spark plugs.

Wright Tool 4598 7/8" - 1/2" Dr. 6 Pt. Spark Plug Holding Socket

not sure how much different it is from a deepwell 7/8 with a 13/16 rubber spark plug insert in it?

soundguy

Car Doc · Nov 3, 2011

Short Game said:
Yuppers, all the heat shield bolts are busy combining with oxygen. All of them are may-pops, if not sure-pops.

As for the ohm-sweet-ohm-ing, it was all very confusing. Green and white read open to ground with one lead to ground, and zero ohms when the other lead is to ground. Same with the blacks, though the blacks were opposite of the green and white when I reversed the leads. In other words, when the grounded lead was such that the green and white were open, the blacks were shorts, and vice verse when the grounded lead was changed. Looks like I'm reading through some diodes. But sometimes, not every time, when I hooked up across the plug pins, I got a resistance that started at about 30 ohms and climbed slow and steady to over 300 before I gave up. It looked like a moving target. Sometimes it was open across the pins, an sometimes a short. Couldn't seem to get any consistency. When I was in doubt, to eliminate the meter, I'd try shorting the leads and it always read short. Are sensors supposed to make sense?

I put it all back and the light is still on. I decided the best thing to do at this point is have an IPA.

No no no (yes sensors make perfect sense they are dealing with a binary processor) apparently I didn't explain the ohm test well enough sorry but you dont ohm between the sensor and engine ground you ohm them put the leads on the 2 black wires we are reading ONLY the sensor.

Pull the MPFI fuse under the hood or unplug the battery for 20-30 seconds to turn the lite out and clear the code. hth

edit: Short Game,

You may have to have the zone clear the codes it dawned on me later that some cars need a scan tool anyway to clear them I cant explain why but it is that way on some just to be sure its not another bad sensor or a pin got folded over installing the new one or actually something in the car causing it! (very doubtful its the car fwtw)