pipe thread?

[Scooby074]

Also agree with you regarding the hyd adapters made in asia......I sell Gates and they didn't go down in price when the "Made in China" stuff showed up....IIRC I had two price increases this past year.....

Gotta love it... Price goes up as their cost goes down

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Not sure what you all are doing based on some of the comments.

If you need pipe nipples or fittings on hydraulics, DO NOT USE PLUMBING FITTINGS. Even EX heavy nipples are only rated at 1000 PSI and standard plumbers fittings, black or galvanized are only rated for 150 PSI. Hydraulics are working at 1000-3000 PSI depending on your tractor. Minimum is forged steel fittings and Schd 80 seamless nipples. You get a better quality thread. Buy at your hydraulic supply house as they will have in stock. You are not going to find this stuff at the big box stores or auto supply stores. If you need many nipples and fittings you are better off to use hydraulic tubing and steel hydraulic flatre fittings. One good thing is if the cheap stuff does burst pieces will not fly around like stuff holding air, gases, or steam. But the hot oil sraying around can give some nasty burns.

Old pipefitter talking.

Ron

 

[Soundguy]

Buy at your hydraulic supply house as they will have in stock. You are not going to find this stuff at the big box stores or auto supply stores. Ron

napa carries a good selection of REAL hyd fittings.. they can order parker.. etc.. I believe napa qua;lifies as an auto supply store no?

soundguy

 

[wdchyd]

Not sure what you all are doing based on some of the comments.



Old pipefitter talking.

Ron

Ron, If you read my comments I used the black iron fittings on a FHW (forced hot water) boiler......at no time have I suggested anything other than "Real" hydraulic fittings for hyd systems........the hydraulic fittings that I referenced made in china are from Gates, Aeroquip and Parker.....

Old Hydraulic Technician Talking

Bill

 

[wdchyd]

napa carries a good selection of REAL hyd fittings.. they can order parker.. etc.. I believe napa qua;lifies as an auto supply store no?

soundguy

My local Napa uses Weatherhead (ie: Eaton/Aeroquip)......Yes, an auto supply store

 

[Errol]

Our intials stand for bspt british standard pipe taper bspf british standard pie fine meaning parallel the same with nptt national pipe thread taper and nptf national pipe thread fine meaning parallel and the pipe thread diameter is slightly smaller to allow for no taper so a parallel thread would be loose in a taper fitting and not be able to seal as you said parallel are usually in valve bodies

 

[Scooby074]

Not sure what you all are doing based on some of the comments.

If you need pipe nipples or fittings on hydraulics, DO NOT USE PLUMBING FITTINGS. Even EX heavy nipples are only rated at 1000 PSI and standard plumbers fittings, black or galvanized are only rated for 150 PSI. Hydraulics are working at 1000-3000 PSI depending on your tractor. Minimum is forged steel fittings and Schd 80 seamless nipples. You get a better quality thread. Buy at your hydraulic supply house as they will have in stock. You are not going to find this stuff at the big box stores or auto supply stores. If you need many nipples and fittings you are better off to use hydraulic tubing and steel hydraulic flatre fittings. One good thing is if the cheap stuff does burst pieces will not fly around like stuff holding air, gases, or steam. But the hot oil sraying around can give some nasty burns.

Old pipefitter talking.

Ron

sched 40 on suction side only. no galv. watch for loose flash

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Ron, If you read my comments I used the black iron fittings on a FHW (forced hot water) boiler......at no time have I suggested anything other than "Real" hydraulic fittings for hyd systems........the hydraulic fittings that I referenced made in china are from Gates, Aeroquip and Parker.....

Old Hydraulic Technician Talking

Bill

Sorry Bill, these threads sometimes wander around the subject so that it is hard to track unless you go back to the beginning which I did not do here. I had added a comment on this a long way back and did not follow that close. I was only pointing out the pitfalls of using some info not related to the base subject. Unfortunanetly due to a lack of knowledge folks get to thinking price and make these type mistakes. Back when I was plying the trade it was amazing what you found general handyman mechanics in small plants would do to keep things running. Then they called us to fix it when they got into trouble. I am with you on the china thing. It is a mixed bag. Seems some of the name brands do have a good handle on Quality Control overseas. I think that is probably the key, stay with known old time US brand names. For industrial hydraulic piping we almost always used Parker tube/hose fittings, forged steel fittings and seamless pipe and nipples. Some stuff had to be schd 160 even when getting up towards pressures higher than tractors are. We never used malleable fittings on hot water or steam boilers; either cast iron or steel depending on pressure. Hot water and LP steam heating hasen't used threaded pipe much since the 1960's. Either welded or copper tube.

Ron

 

[MHarryE]

From the OEM standpoint, leaks equal mechanic visits and warranty claims. Number 1 way to avoid hydraulic line leaks is to avoid pipe threads and instead use ORB (o-ring boss) ports and ORFS (o-ring face seal) connectors. If, however, you are forced to use pipe threads because nobody makes what you need with the preferred, always use a thread sealant. The 3 large OEMs for whom I worked all used the same thing for pipe threads - whichever Loctite hydraulic sealant was best at the time. At one time we had a rash of hydraulic motor shaft seal leaks from 1 plant (identical machine built at 3 plants worldwide and only the US built machines leaked). We had a bunch of the leaky motors returned - bits of teflon in the seals causing the leaks. Investigate the assembly line - someone had decided to change from sealant to Teflon tape on the sole pipe fitting used on the machine and the teflon tape chemically matched the bits found in the seal. Change from tape back to the specified sealant and problem resolved.

 

[crazyal]

From the OEM standpoint, leaks equal mechanic visits and warranty claims. Number 1 way to avoid hydraulic line leaks is to avoid pipe threads and instead use ORB (o-ring boss) ports and ORFS (o-ring face seal) connectors. If, however, you are forced to use pipe threads because nobody makes what you need with the preferred, always use a thread sealant. The 3 large OEMs for whom I worked all used the same thing for pipe threads - whichever Loctite hydraulic sealant was best at the time. At one time we had a rash of hydraulic motor shaft seal leaks from 1 plant (identical machine built at 3 plants worldwide and only the US built machines leaked). We had a bunch of the leaky motors returned - bits of teflon in the seals causing the leaks. Investigate the assembly line - someone had decided to change from sealant to Teflon tape on the sole pipe fitting used on the machine and the teflon tape chemically matched the bits found in the seal. Change from tape back to the specified sealant and problem resolved.

You would be surprised just how many times someone somewhere decides to make a change because they don't think it will make a difference. That's one of the biggest challenges to large companies.