Boxblade or Scraper Blade?

[jenkinsph]

I haven't found a boxblade or rearblade to be a better choice rather they perform different tasks and both can be necessary. I would think you need to have both implements and maybe a landplane/graderscraper too.

Which one to get first?
If the most severe problem is recovering the gravel on the side then get a rearblade.
If the most severe problem is potholes in the drive get the boxblade.

 

[babzog]

I haven't found a boxblade or rearblade to be a better choice rather they perform different tasks and both can be necessary. I would think you need to have both implements and maybe a landplane/graderscraper too.

Which one to get first?
If the most severe problem is recovering the gravel on the side then get a rearblade.
If the most severe problem is potholes in the drive get the boxblade.

What if the most severe problem is "all of the above"? LOL

I think I might go the BB route. Thinking as well, that it would be useful to re-spread the pile of gravel that accumulates in my snowdump after it all melts. I made a mess of it last spring trying to skim off the hump of gravel using the FEL (dug in and brought up the base of the driveway... now I've got dirt and big rocks where I should have 3/4" stone).

 

[boggen]

*ughs* rocks in side yard from snow removal.

good old metal hand rake. but perhaps a 3pt land scape rake. eerrr i mean a large size metal hand rake. but made to fit on back of your tractor.

===============
i can do a pretty job just using the FEL and general duty bucket back dragging and getting things fairly smooth. not as smooth and level as a box blade, but enough to get job done. granted after enough patch jobs. it looking pretty ugly. but works for now.

on other hand. if i had a scraper blade, to bring rocks back into the drive way, or better yet, be able to drag or push snow off the drive way without constantly backing up and going forward every couple feet it might be even better.

 

[jenkinsph]

What if the most severe problem is "all of the above"? LOL

I think I might go the BB route. Thinking as well, that it would be useful to re-spread the pile of gravel that accumulates in my snowdump after it all melts. I made a mess of it last spring trying to skim off the hump of gravel using the FEL (dug in and brought up the base of the driveway... now I've got dirt and big rocks where I should have 3/4" stone).

If all of the above then get the boxblade, rearblade and landplane. I have all of those plus the landscape rake and can tell you there is a place for all of them.

About the gravel from snow dumps, some of that is inevitable but with experience you learn to grade above the gravel. Try to build up a frozen layer to drive over. I add sand above the ice layer on slopes or grades and at the street end of driveways, this is less trouble to deal with in the spring.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

If all of the above then get the boxblade, rearblade and landplane. I have all of those plus the landscape rake and can tell you there is a place for all of them.
.

While this is very true, I have the same, in fact have different sizes of the same implements except the landscape rake. But not everyone can afford multiple implements, so if a person can only get one for the time being, which one do you get to start with?

If I had to deal with these things and snow on a regular basis, I would get a good rear blade to start with.

 

[babzog]

While this is very true, I have the same, in fact have different sizes of the same implements except the landscape rake. But not everyone can afford multiple implements, so if a person can only get one for the time being, which one do you get to start with?

If I had to deal with these things and snow on a regular basis, I would get a good rear blade to start with.

That's just it... it's hard to afford all of the tools. Even at auction or used prices (which often aren't far off new prices), good implements are expensive.

I have a blower for the snow, so no need for a snow blade.

 

[hrcarver]

For keeping up a gravel rd, you need a scraper. You can change the angle left to right or change the tilt up and down from the seat. I have a rake and a box blade, the rake is OK for touching up. Box blade is almost worthless on a gravel rd, just leaves it flat destroying the crown. If you need to rebuild the road from pot holes and ripples, a scraper is the only way to go.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Re: Rear hydraulics... I was referring to the hydraulic top link and tilt control that some have mentioned in this thread.. I have no rear remote hydraulic connects on my tractor - dealer wants nearly $2k to add that on - so whatever adjustments I'd make to a rear attachment, I do manually. I'd love to get a set of remotes... log splitter, etc etc.

Snow removal - I picked up a (well used) blower last year which makes that job so much easier.

Yes, grading the driveway was the only task I had in mind at this time, but after watching some vids, I can already picture using the box blade for another project (re-grading around the house).

Only ad I've seen (locally) for a used box blade is a Rhino BX72 for $600. Looks to be in pretty good shape.

If your drive is truly your main concern, then a land plane grader blade is the best implement for maintenance of that drive IMO. As has been mentioned, each implement has it's purpose and excels at those purposes, but a LPGB is by far the best implement to maintain a drive.

Just my :2cents:

 

[greg_g]

Box blade is almost worthless on a gravel rd, just leaves it flat destroying the crown.

Completely unfair to the boxblade. A capable operator can actually build a good crown. Don't let your BB rust in the shed, take it out and actually learn how to use it!! I'm sure you'll be pleasantly surprised.

Hint1: lower the scarifiers and tear through the potholes
Hint2: not all scarifiers need be lowered
Hint3: use draft or position control if so equipped (to keep BB from digging too deep)
Hint4: for crown work, set one lower lift arm on the tractor a little higher than the other. Then work the road 1/2 at a time (higher side of the BB in the center of course).
Hint5: light finishing/smoothing work can be performed in reverse by adjusting toplink to raise rear of BB higher than front.

//greg//

 

[hrcarver]

Completely unfair to the boxblade. A capable operator can actually build a good crown. Don't let your BB rust in the shed, take it out and actually learn how to use it!! I'm sure you'll be pleasantly surprised.

Hint1: lower the scarifiers and tear through the potholes
Hint2: not all scarifiers need be lowered
Hint3: use draft or position control if so equipped (to keep BB from digging too deep)
Hint4: for crown work, set one lower lift arm on the tractor a little higher than the other. Then work the road 1/2 at a time (higher side of the BB in the center of course).
Hint5: light finishing/smoothing work can be performed in reverse by adjusting toplink to raise rear of BB higher than front.

//greg//

I'll give you the correction, box blades may be capable, but are more work than a scraper. With a scraper you hit one remote lever for your tilt, hit the other lever for your angle and go. Never even have to get off of the seat.