Plow Mount-Chain Float or Hydraulic Float

[zzvyb6]

I'd never use anything but float. Sometimes you need downforce to break ice and clumps of snow, especially when backing up with the plow down to clear areas near the garage doors.

If your float doesn't float your boat, fix it by replumbing it. You need float for good bucket action, too.

If your 'float' raises the front of the tractor, but some weight on it. You'll get a lot smoother ice-free driveway.

 

[Gizmo2]

The down pressure is important for me: I had to suddenly remove the bucket and add the plow two weeks ago when we had 12" wet snow. I'm in the middle of trenching a water line with my backhoe so I'm using the down pressure on the Meyer to lift the front wheels off the ground! I'm careful such that the load is not on the single pivot bolt but rather on the whole rigid A-frame I built.

By the way - I have no welder. The entire plow frame was first made up with plywood and then brought to the weldshop. They tacked it all and one final fit was made before final weld/paint.

WHAT, no welder? Got to be tough.

 

[Gizmo2]

I'd never use anything but float. Sometimes you need downforce to break ice and clumps of snow, especially when backing up with the plow down to clear areas near the garage doors.

I drop my ballast box and drag it over those spots, cleans em right up.

 

[Smalljobs]

Should buy welder in future to repair hot rod, tractor, backhoe, chipper, loader, etc. etc.

 

[nybirdman]

Mine is chain but it is also very heavy 8ft. on a 7000lb tractor.It also is set up with a pivot point so it can follow the contours.It also is on a QA plate so easy to reinstall the bucket if needed.

 

[JB4310]

I'd never use anything but float. Sometimes you need downforce to break ice and clumps of snow, especially when backing up with the plow down to clear areas near the garage doors.

If your float doesn't float your boat, fix it by replumbing it. You need float for good bucket action, too.

If your 'float' raises the front of the tractor, but some weight on it. You'll get a lot smoother ice-free driveway.

I use a 72" rear blade for pulling snow from in front of doors, no down pressure (except the extra weight I put on it) but the blade is in the correct position, not like when back dragging. Plus with the HTL I can manipulate the cutting angle and really tear up any ice I have encountered so far.

JB

 

[dkhntr04]

Thanks for all the replies! I've decided to stay with the chain float, I plowed all of last year with that setup and had no issues. The hydraulic float speed issue that was brought up eliminated my interest in hydraulic. My yard and driveway is all fairly soft gravel, so down pressure for scraping ice wouldn't work out well either.

I actually got most of the building done today, hopefully I'll get it done early this week. I'll make sure to post pictures when I am done. I'm also going for a quick attach design with the mounts using two 2" receivers on the tractor side to hopefully allow me to remove and attach the plow in 5 minutes or so in case I want to put the FEL on for moving piles or for lifting duties around the shop. The receivers will also be the mounting point for a grill guard when the loader is on (my tractor doesn't have a factory guard).


Thanks again!

 

[JB4310]

I actually got most of the building done today, hopefully I'll get it done early this week. I'll make sure to post pictures when I am done. I'm also going for a quick attach design with the mounts using two 2" receivers on the tractor side to hopefully allow me to remove and attach the plow in 5 minutes or so in case I want to put the FEL on for moving piles or for lifting duties around the shop. The receivers will also be the mounting point for a grill guard when the loader is on (my tractor doesn't have a factory guard).


Thanks again!

I would like to see the pics. The 2 in receiver is a good idea, just use the thickest wall you can find. I Lucked out with mine and have just enough room to leave the undercarriage on the tractor and still be able to mount the loader. My lift slips on the weight bracket and just clears the grill guard as well. I put 2 bolts in the lift frame thru the weight bracket just to stiffen it up, but they really are not needed for chain float/ no down pressure.

Those are the only 2 bolts I need to deal with to go from plow to loader.
2 bolts, 2 pins and 4 hyd lines that's it. I could change the bolts to pins so it would be no tools needed. but I can still change over in 5 - 10 minutes.

JB

 

[KennyG]

Looking at these replies, I'm thinking there might be a preference for chain on gravel, float on concrete. Does that make sense?

 

[roman]

JB, nice pic with your rig ready to make the jump! Thats good looking setup you have.

KennyG, I would agree. I can see where concrete-paved is better suited for float. I have chain and my drive is gravel with subtle topographic features. I also move snow across the crowned gravel town road. Our road agent wouldnt be happy if I dug up the road.