Heat Pump question...

[clemsonfor]

I like it:thumbsup:

Allthough, A HP is constantally variable. You list the COP @ 2.2. That is probabally about what mine runs @ 35-40 degrees. But it is more around 3.5 when temps are near 50, and less than 2.2 when colder. That is the Idea behind my spreadsheet is to be able to calculate it at different temps in comparison.

And there are a few other "specific" questions I would like to ask you if ya dont mind?

First, you list the price ranges for NAT gas as 1.50-2.25/ccf. I personally dont know, we dont have gas in our area, but I had always heard it was between 0.90 and 1.10/ccf. I have no good sources for verifying, most people I know that have NG, have no clue:confused2: Could you shed some light?

Second, I think most propane furnaces are 90% or better eff. I could be wrong. Why did you go with 80%?

Third, I have always been told that burning wood is only 20-30% efficent. The rest goes up the chimney:confused2: That could skew them #'s a bit for the worse. Where did you get The 70% # at???

Not trying to discredit any of your info, just curious is all

My new (well about 6 yrs old that i bought a yr ago) wood stove is a catalyst model. Im thinking the sticker on it puts it in the 60-70% effiency range. How do i know this, cause i can go to the stove store i bought it at and they put stickers on them telling you this, like your heat pump or washingmachine, showing you where it rates in the line up of stoves and its effiency. Also shows the carbon or something it puts out an hour? My stove is effecient, once the catalysts are engaged it reburns all the smoke like in your car catylist (how it does to the unburned fuel) and you get a ton of heat from that. This allows you to damp your fire way down yet still get no visible smoke out of the chimney. I have heard that the new EPA stoves are 30-35% more efficient than old stoves. Which if you heard there 30% you add the general rule of 30% more efficient to it and you get 60%? Just guessing.

 

[LD1]

My new (well about 6 yrs old that i bought a yr ago) wood stove is a catalyst model. Im thinking the sticker on it puts it in the 60-70% effiency range. How do i know this, cause i can go to the stove store i bought it at and they put stickers on them telling you this, like your heat pump or washingmachine, showing you where it rates in the line up of stoves and its effiency. Also shows the carbon or something it puts out an hour? My stove is effecient, once the catalysts are engaged it reburns all the smoke like in your car catylist (how it does to the unburned fuel) and you get a ton of heat from that. This allows you to damp your fire way down yet still get no visible smoke out of the chimney. I have heard that the new EPA stoves are 30-35% more efficient than old stoves. Which if you heard there 30% you add the general rule of 30% more efficient to it and you get 60%? Just guessing.

I guess that is possible with a catalyst stove.

All I know is that when they say wood ~22Mbtu/cord, that is TOTAL heat output as a reault of burning wood. ALOT of heat goes up the chimney:confused2:

Those pellet stoves are pretty effecient because if you ever feel the "chimney" pipe on them...they dont loose much heat that way.

I guess it is entirley possible that "old school" wood burners, like my barrel stove, or the cast-iron stoves, are closer to the 30%. But the catalyst models that re-burn the gasses, I can believe them to be closer to 60% eff

 

[EE_Bota]

Oops...Wrong thread. Sorry Guys...it took me a while to track this post down.
I deleted it now.

 

[dmccarty]

:laughing::laughing::laughing:

I think EE is trying to tell us something about heat pumps....

Just not sure what he is trying to say....



Our wood stove is 70% efficient whatever that means and it is not a catalyst stove. Certainly quite a bit of heat goes up the chimney but that heat might not be wasted. Our chimney is exposed a good six feet from the stove to the ceiling. That exposed chimney does help heat the house. And the attic and the outside. :laughing:

I overheard a conversation last night about HVAC systems. One guy had Goodwin and had no problems. They other guy had Trane and was constantly fixing it. We have Goodwin in the house and it has been fine except for a blown capacitor in the high heat last summer. The Rheem we had in the city was trouble free for almost 10 years.

Later,
Dan

 

[LD1]

I overheard a conversation last night about HVAC systems. One guy had Goodwin and had no problems. They other guy had Trane and was constantly fixing it. We have Goodwin in the house and it has been fine except for a blown capacitor in the high heat last summer. The Rheem we had in the city was trouble free for almost 10 years.

Later,
Dan

I can say that my rheem has been trouble free as well.

It was installed when the house was built in 1996. And I have owned since 2005. Nor sure if the prior owners have had any issues, but in my 6 years, I have had none. Which is supising since it is a 15 year old unit now:confused2:

 

[clemsonfor]

Oops...Wrong thread. Sorry Guys...it took me a while to track this post down.
I deleted it now.

WHAT?

What does this have to do with Heatpumps?

EDIT: From the time i brought the page up to read it, then quoted it EEbota had already edited it so my quote shows the Edit. But when i quoted it my screen had the whole Occupy riot timeline on it?

 

[clemsonfor]

:laughing::laughing::laughing:

I think EE is trying to tell us something about heat pumps....

Just not sure what he is trying to say....



Our wood stove is 70% efficient whatever that means and it is not a catalyst stove. Certainly quite a bit of heat goes up the chimney but that heat might not be wasted. Our chimney is exposed a good six feet from the stove to the ceiling. That exposed chimney does help heat the house. And the attic and the outside. :laughing:

I overheard a conversation last night about HVAC systems. One guy had Goodwin and had no problems. They other guy had Trane and was constantly fixing it. We have Goodwin in the house and it has been fine except for a blown capacitor in the high heat last summer. The Rheem we had in the city was trouble free for almost 10 years.

Later,
Dan

That sounds just like me. I have a Goodwin and no problems in 3 years but the neighbor and his Trane calls the guy every year since it was a few years old.

 

[EE_Bota]

:laughing::laughing::laughing:

I think EE is trying to tell us something about heat pumps....

Just not sure what he is trying to say....



Our wood stove is 70% efficient whatever that means and it is not a catalyst stove. Certainly quite a bit of heat goes up the chimney but that heat might not be wasted. Our chimney is exposed a good six feet from the stove to the ceiling. That exposed chimney does help heat the house. And the attic and the outside. :laughing:

I overheard a conversation last night about HVAC systems. One guy had Goodwin and had no problems. They other guy had Trane and was constantly fixing it. We have Goodwin in the house and it has been fine except for a blown capacitor in the high heat last summer. The Rheem we had in the city was trouble free for almost 10 years.

Later,
Dan

Sorry...I posted in the wrong thread..
For this thread..I am not sure what to make of the efficiencies of a wood stove, but I studied this hard just before last Christmas. I installed one of the new EPA rated stoves (used) last Christmas, and it does seem to be far more thrifty on the wood. I wish my stove pipe were exposed like yours, but it was not possible in my setup, which is right in front of my rock chimney.

My main reason to change anything was the fire hazard of the existing setup..an insert dumping right into a conventional chimney..no pipe. I think that was a chimney fire waiting to happen.

My pipe is insulated, and also within the chimney itself. One big advantage with the new stove vs the old insert is I can actually see the fire. Most of the heat for the first hour or more comes out through the glass, and it takes a long time for the soap stone to heat up, and then for my rock mantel to heat up too. But after that, even if the stove has been out for hours, it is still putting out heat.

I used to be quite concerned whether a stove could burn all night, and have enough coals to start a new fire the next morning, since I fall asleep quite early sometimes, and have little interest or time for starting a fire when I get up at 4:30 AM. This one can keep fire, only if plenty of ashes are left in there to shield the coals. But, anymore, I am not concerned with propagating the fire into the morning and next day, since I get plenty of heat from the soap stone and all the rock from the chimney.

Here is my stove with its stated efficiency claims. I and my best friend bought our stoves two weeks apart, off of Craigs list, and each of us paid $800, and we are both pretty darned pleased with them.

Stove Details | Hearthstone Stoves

If you do things like this with your a good friend, it can add a lot to life..you saw together, split together, etc, and that is always more fun than working alone.

 

[clemsonfor]

I can load my stove twice a day. It will easily have coals for 10-12 hours to restart a fire.

I have not put a liner in my existing chimney and will probly one day, but with this stove once burning and engaged there is no visible smoke out of the chimney no smoke = little to no creosote for chimney fire (catalyst stoves claim to reduce creosote by 90%). Sometimes before its fully heated the catalysts you see some smoke wifts but it may be moisture coming out of chimney? If the fire is really hot and you engage them and then damp down you will see no smoke all day long after the start fireing.