Adding tiedown hooks to my trailer

[MikeA57]

I've got a 16' flatbed trailer that I just got back on the road after reflooring and rewiring it. I'd like to add some tiedown hooks to it and am wondering whether I should go with "through the floor" or have some welded on the frames?

I will be carrying ATVs and my Ford 1510 with a bush hog or finish mower so I'm thinking that the welded ones would be best. I was thinking of 3 on each side. Is there a mfr/vendor that is favored over others? I saw some at Home Depot but don't know about strength values.

 

[rmully]

Look at this company ...they offer a lot of options.

AW Direct: Towing Equipment, Work Truck Supplies & Accessories

 

[jeffsw6]

If you do "through the floor" you may want to put metal backing plates under them to distribute the force. Definitely would have been easier before putting the new floor on!

 

[George2615]

For hauling larger items such as a tractor I'd install the weld on type. Don't know about HD brand but they should have a rating. I bought mine from local tractor supply store. AW direct is another good source.
Through the floor type would be OK for the ATV or riding mower etc.
My welded on D-rings are the 5/8" models rated for 15,000 lb. I have 2 on each side, 2 on back and 2 on front.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I too suggest weld on. I think they're easier to hook to, and they seem stronger than floor anchors. I'm assuming you have a wood deck.

 

[deepNdirt]

I was doing the same thing a while back, was thinking of going with the weld on D-Rings, actually the ring itself is not welded on, a short pc of angle iron that culp over the straight part of the ring that gets welded on, leaving the Ring able to move to position of the tie-down,

a while back when I inquired, there was mention of using a large shackle hook,
( No welding necessary )
only to drill a hole to put the pin or bolt through, ..... I chose this method:thumbsup:
although I must note: that a standard type chain hook will not hook to them, I wound up hooking another hook onto the shackle that I could use a standard chain link hook onto, But either way even using the D-hook a chain Link type hook doesn't fit, You would have to run the entire chain through and then come back making a loop to catch a link,

 

[deepNdirt]

another thing I seen on a trailer, that might be a less expensive method compared to the cost of the D-rings.... But I would get another opinion as to its strength, I seen look like 1/inch rebar bent into the shape of a D-ring and I assume was welded together under the angle iron that held it in place,

 

[KennyG]

I vote for the weld on D-rings. I think I spent between $40 and $50 on ebay for 8 of them (I forget if they are 1/2 or 5/8), and I can't imagine anything working better for less money. As shown in the pictures, on each side I put two on the frame rail in front of the axles and one behind. The fourth was put on the top rail above the wheels (hidden in these pictures by the spilled mulch). The working load of these weld on's is 5K to 6K for each ring, which would take more than just a through bolt to get with deck mounted rings.

 

[JB4310]

Everyone is saying weld on D-rings, but those are only as good as the welder installing them. If OP doesn't weld, it could get a little costly bringing it to a shop to get done.

How about a bolt on D-ring with a 12,000 lb capacity, anyone can drill a hole and tighten a nut and bolt.

D Ring Hardware - D Rings Tie Downs - Trailer D Ring - D Ring Mount

Other ideas shown here.

D-Rings & D Ring Tie Downs: Trailer Tie Down Anchors & Weld On D Rings

I have stake pockets, so I just use those.

Good luck,

JB

 

[sparc]

I would not use rebar. It is not designed for these type loads and not all rebar can be welded without reducing its strength in the heat affected zone (area near the weld subject to high temp).

Buy quality D-rings that are made to be welded on, and size them for the heaviest load you can but on the trailer, not the load you plan to carry today. Why limit your capacity in the future by saving a couple dollars now.

At a place I worked a while back we had some concrete barriers that had been poured with pieces of bent rebar protruding from the top so they could be lifted with a crane. During one rigging operation one of the loops broke. It snapped of like a twig. It had been loaded at an angle using a pair of slings instead of using a spreader and slings dropping straight down. That angular load was enough on the #6 bar (3/4" dia) to break it.

If you used rebar to make rigging attachment points on your trailer it would amount to the same setup...an angular load that could result in a break during transit, especially if the rigging was shock loaded as when making a quick stop or hitting a good size bump or pothole in the road.

....anyone can drill a hole and tighten a nut and bolt.

But will they torque those bolts to the recommended value or will they over-tighten them..or just as bad... not tight enough. Will they use hardened washers or none at all. And where or what will they attach them to, that 3/16" thick web of the 4" channel or some flimsy angle iron that the bolts (w/o washers) could rip right through?

I agree that you need a decent welder (person) to install the rings. A trip to a weld shop might be cheap insurance.