Educate me on trailer jacks

[Egon]

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31UbYqW7qyL.jpg


Install this type of jack may allow enough room for the tailgate down position.

 

[sklunk]

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31UbYqW7qyL.jpg


Install this type of jack may allow enough room for the tailgate down position.

Agreed -- you could install a swivel jack. That's what I have on my 10K trailer and it rotates out of the way so I can still put my tailgate down. Here is a link to one of the largest manufacturers of trailer jacks:
Trailer Jacks - Bulldog Products

 

[Diamondpilot]

So my 10k loboy trailer has the typical jack in the nose, right behind the coupler. It's a solid Bulldog 8k jack, problem is that it is too close to the front so I can't open the tailgate on my PU as it hits the jack. Sure there are things I can do like putting a blanket over it or something, but that isn't a good solution as you can't really step on the tailgate for risk of damaging it.

So I'm thinking it might be nice to move the jack back to the front of the deck like I see on heavier trailers and use a side crank setup so I can use it from the edge of the trailer. What's involved in this? Is there anything special to it, or is it just a case of doing good welds with 7018 up the edge of the outer case to the front rail? I could brace it with triangulating it to the A-frame or something, but I don't want to get ridiculous about it while still making it solid. Having never done this before do you just pull the jack innards out, grind off paint and go to it, or what?

Here's what mine looks like. Yes, I would get a new jack with a sidewinder crank. Just looking for a clue here as the trailer websites seem to assume you know everything...

When I order trailers for customers I always spec a set back jack. Its nothing more than using your existing jack and placing a piece of the 5" channel your main frame is made out of in between the A frame about mid way back from the coupler to the trailers deck and putting the jack in that cross member.

I can not tale you how many I have fixed just like your trailer that customers complain about the same thing with a trailer they own and I had not ordered for them. Its even a bigger problem when pulling with a SUV like a Suburban. Many times you can not open the rear lift hatch.

Before you do any welding though I would recommend you find a tool box and place it on the A Frame between the deck and the new jack location. This will come in handy and will ensure you have the room. Its nice to have for storing straps and chains.

Last thing I would to is cut the tongue up and make it longer. You are asking for trouble.

Also, make sure when you weld you pull any wires from the tubes. You will melt them up in a hurry.

Chris

 

[Verticaltrx]

I just got a new trailer and spec'd it out with a 7,000lb drop leg jack. I was tired of the flimsy top wind jacks mounted on the tongue for various reason. It was well worth the extra money, very sturdy jack, out of the way location, and the drop leg feature is really nice (no more block under the jack or dragging it because it won't raise high enough.)

Not a great pic but there are some in this thread:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/trailers-transportation/222741-new-kaufman-equipment-trailer-pics.html

 

[kenmac]

I've got to move the jack on the travel trailer I just purchased. Can't let the tail gate down without hitting the jack. Why they put them (tongue jacks) there is anyones guess. Must be less work on them

 

[MillWeld]

Bob - you call that a SMALL trailer?!?! That looks like 7-8" channel. Nice work. Yeah, your jack idea looks good too - same basic principle of moving it back a bit to clear.

Thanks, dstig1.
My trailer is 6 x 16 tandem. The home-made box beam I put the jack through is 4 x 5.5 not 3 x 6 that I reported earlier. That made the frame look larger. The frame is 6 x 2 channel.
Bob

 

[dstig1]

Before you do any welding though I would recommend you find a tool box and place it on the A Frame between the deck and the new jack location. This will come in handy and will ensure you have the room. Its nice to have for storing straps and chains.

Have thought about it...not a big need currently, but could be useful.

Last thing I would to is cut the tongue up and make it longer. You are asking for trouble.

What sort of trouble? I've made some fairly sharp turns with it with no contact, if that's what you are getting at. Is there some sort of length that is considered standard/better?

Also, make sure when you weld you pull any wires from the tubes. You will melt them up in a hurry.

Hoo yah. You don't have to warn me on that one, and since I just rewired the whole thing I have no desire to cook all that and do it again...

Thanks for the thoughts, Chris.

 

[Diamondpilot]

What sort of trouble? I've made some fairly sharp turns with it with no contact, if that's what you are getting at. Is there some sort of length that is considered standard/better?

Nothing really on the length. I just would not want to cut up a solid run of steel and piece anything in.

Chris

 

[dodge man]

I never really noticed it but looking at the picture, the "A" frame on your trailer is shorter than normal. But if it doesn't cause problems, I wouldn't mess with it.

 

[slowzuki]

Having the jack as far forward as possible reduces the cranking effort as its out on a lever. It also give room for propane tanks or a chain box.