shooting rest build ideas plz

[smiley]

I thought I would ask here as we tend to be resourceful, and creative folks.
Cheap and easy is what I'm after.
A step above sand bags would be great. QUOTE

Search---auto jack shooting rest--------for cheap and easy

 

[Mean Jean]

Very nice, there are a few designs to work with.
I think I've found a winner.

 

[sizzami]

I have a steel ironing board works great and portable

 

[Mean Jean]

Ironing board, I like it!

 

[Chain Bender]

I thought I would ask here as we tend to be resourceful, and creative folks.
Cheap and easy is what I'm after.
A step above sand bags would be great. QUOTE

Search---auto jack shooting rest--------for cheap and easy

XXXXXXXXXXX

Here is a very simple rest to make. Adjustments are solid and fairly easy to do.

Rest is made out of 1" X1/8" box. I suppose you could use 1X1X1/8" angle for the front and rear cross pieces and the feet/legs and make it even lighter if so inclined. I prefer a heavier rest. I usually put a sand bag on each side of the front cross member.

The front yolk is made out of a 3" pipe/EMT hanger. The rear is a 5/16" bolt with the head cut off and welded onto a short/bent piece of chain link tension bar. Both were dipped several times in plastic dip to give them some padding and scratch prevention on the rifle stocks. Front has infinite adjustments until it bottoms out or completely unscrews itself. Rear only has about 1" adjustment.

Fine adjustment is done my turning the 5/16" knurled knob loacated on the top/center of the upper arm.

This is a picture of my pistol back stops. 24" X 48" X .250" plate. Lag bolted onto the 4X4 or 2X4 pressure treated frame. I have shot warm 30-30 rounds at both from about 60 yards and they deflect downward as they should. The do put a dimple in the plate though. Pistol rounds just seem to leave a streak of lead and or copper as they deflect down. About once a month I reclaim the lead and make fishing weights out of it.

Here is a picture of what a good rifle in a good rest can do with an experienced shooter and a long time reloader can do. The shot on the left was my first shot at center mass of the plate. I guess I over corrected about 1" for the next 3 shots. The last three shots are overlapping and are about .7" center to center.

Hope this helps a little.

Chain Bender

 

[Mean Jean]

Thanks very much for the ideas.

I will incorporate (steal) some the the designs you've used for your rest.

That's some great shooting from 305 yards, very nice work.

 

[Chain Bender]

Thanks very much for the ideas.

I will incorporate (steal) some the the designs you've used for your rest.

That's some great shooting from 305 yards, very nice work.

XXXXXXXX

thanks,
I think the next one I build will be wider and longer on the bottom half and incorporate a turn-buckle as the finite adjustment. Been too busy making booms (front and rear) root rakes, ballast weights, bucket forks, carry all's and playing to get serious with a new rest. But I think that will be my next mini-project. Can built that in less than an hour if I don't stop for a coffee break.

Good luck with your "steel".

CB

 

[foggy1111]

XXXXXXXXXXX

Here is a very simple rest to make. Adjustments are solid and fairly easy to do.

Rest is made out of 1" X1/8" box. I suppose you could use 1X1X1/8" angle for the front and rear cross pieces and the feet/legs and make it even lighter if so inclined. I prefer a heavier rest. I usually put a sand bag on each side of the front cross member.

The front yolk is made out of a 3" pipe/EMT hanger. The rear is a 5/16" bolt with the head cut off and welded onto a short/bent piece of chain link tension bar. Both were dipped several times in plastic dip to give them some padding and scratch prevention on the rifle stocks. Front has infinite adjustments until it bottoms out or completely unscrews itself. Rear only has about 1" adjustment.

Fine adjustment is done my turning the 5/16" knurled knob loacated on the top/center of the upper arm.

This is a picture of my pistol back stops. 24" X 48" X .250" plate. Lag bolted onto the 4X4 or 2X4 pressure treated frame. I have shot warm 30-30 rounds at both from about 60 yards and they deflect downward as they should. The do put a dimple in the plate though. Pistol rounds just seem to leave a streak of lead and or copper as they deflect down. About once a month I reclaim the lead and make fishing weights out of it.

Here is a picture of what a good rifle in a good rest can do with an experienced shooter and a long time reloader can do. The shot on the left was my first shot at center mass of the plate. I guess I over corrected about 1" for the next 3 shots. The last three shots are overlapping and are about .7" center to center.

Hope this helps a little.

Chain Bender

Those dimples in the plate (shown above) is what can get you hurt. A bullet that hits into that dimple can follow the curvature in order to ricochet back at you or bystanders.

Allowing the use of ammo that can make dimples is a no-no. Either use harder steel or reduce the velocities IMO.

 

[GPintheMitten]

Here's a link to a good explanation of screw jack rest with good pics.

D-I-Y... Screw Jack Front Rest - NPHA Forums

 

[GPintheMitten]

This is the one I built for prairie dog shooting. The top is a hollow core door and the legs are the ones you buy to make folding tables. I cut the rear leg down to a single to give you room to sit. It is light weight so I could carry it to different shooting points.

Kays_Supply,

I like your shooting table.

I might be thick headed, but I'm not sure exactly what you did in cutting the rear leg down to a single? In the picture, I can't tell. Seems like if you cut one of the upside down u shaped legs off, it would wobble. Got any more pics?

Thanks.