I am now detent-less on my DK45SE

[tpulley]

Saw the thread someone put up on removing the detent balls from the rear remote lever. I decided I really had to do this. Boy do I like the results. Been worried about myself or someone else getting on the tractor and accidently engaging it and costing me some big bucks.

I talked to the dealer Wednesday who suggested it for the hydraulic toplink solution.

I tackled this today the whole thing including figuring out how it works and how to get to things took me about 1/2 an hour to 45 mins. I was taking my time and looking carefully to see how things went back together. I really over thought it. It was real easy.

The first step I had seen was to remove the seat. I removed what I would call the seat pan. The seat is bolted to this there are 9 #7 bolts holding it down. They bolt into welded threaded nut inside (no need to crawl under there looking to see if they will fall down when you take them apart as I did). You then pick up the whole seat and pan (if you can). This will make you grunt as I would guess it weighs 70-80#. If not it sure seemed that way.

I referenced a picture I saw on here that mentioned backing off the set screw (via an allen wrench). Then using a wrench loosened the thin nut and then was able to fully remove the valve. I recommend you hold a paper towel, work rag or something underneath as you carefully slide it off. You are easily able to catch the three bearings, or if they are still stuck on the shaft due to the heavy grease, remove them with little effort.

Reverse the process and you are done. Slide the valve assembly back on retighten the nut and the allen screw into place, put back seat pan.

 

[gkh7890]

Curious about the removal as I'm considering a hydraulic toplink as well. Could you explain why you like the detents removed? I would think that having the detents would make it easier to know when you're in the neutral position and that it doesn't go in either position freely or unknowingly? Granted, I have yet to use my ports but I'm planning to do go this route fairly soon. Appreciate your input/comments.

BTW, thanks for the great pics!!:thumbsup:

 

[Coyote machine]

Why not make a hydraulic hose loop to go from A to B when not using the remote valve? Problem solved, no chance of dead heading the pump.

 

[IslandTractor]

Why not make a hydraulic hose loop to go from A to B when not using the remote valve? Problem solved, no chance of dead heading the pump.

Exactly. I don't understand the fascination with removing the detents. That makes it hard to use something like a backhoe in the future. Just use a continuous loop when the remote is not connected to an implement.

 

[grsthegreat]

I have one of my remotes as a detent valve and the second one as a non detent style.

I agree all you need is a loop of hose to eliminate the deadhead issue. I myself NEED the detent mode to run my log splitter (which has its own valve control).

theres nothing wrong with removing the detent ball as long as you never thing youll need to power something that needs a detent mode.

 

[tpulley]

That is the reason I pulled them out. I see no need in the future for a detent valve. My main concern is not hearing it when it was locked in the detent to A. I don't hear that well and only noticed it when the 3pt hitch wouldn't go down.

The detentless method allows me better control to feather (as JJ pointed out the name for this) the hydraulics for things like the grapple or toplink. When I move it it stays put after I release it. Simple enough for me.

If I decide I do indeed need to go back into detent mode, I saved the balls and feel confident I can reverse this.

No need for a debate it is my tractor, I did it and am glad I did it suits my needs fine.

 

[DK35vince]

My older DK has no detents.
I've sat on a few DKse models and played around with the controls, and I have used a freinds DK35se several times. I thought the dentents on the remotes were awful.
I did not like them at all.
If I purchased a new DKse, one of the first things I would do is eliminate the detent balls.

 

[Coyote machine]

That is the reason I pulled them out. I see no need in the future for a detent valve. My main concern is not hearing it when it was locked in the detent to A. I don't hear that well and only noticed it when the 3pt hitch wouldn't go down.

The detentless method allows me better control to feather (as JJ pointed out the name for this) the hydraulics for things like the grapple or toplink. When I move it it stays put after I release it. Simple enough for me.

If I decide I do indeed need to go back into detent mode, I saved the balls and feel confident I can reverse this.

No need for a debate it is my tractor, I did it and am glad I did it suits my needs fine.

Debate will occur when one posts something on this site, as a result of people expressing their considered to be best way to do certain things. Spending 45min-1hr. to disable a perfectly good valve with the thought that one might possibly be able to find the parts and reinstall them at a later date, if the need arises, defies common sense, IMHO. Especially since adding a short piece of hose between the A and B circuit allows for both detent use and protecting the pump from damage. That being said, you are obviously free to do to your tractor whatever you want; but expect that when you post here that some may have suggestions, queries, etc. about what you chose to do. Doesn't mean you have to take their advice, unless you know what's good for you!:laughing:

 

[DK35vince]

I use my rear remotes a lot.
I use them all summer to run my top and tilt cylinders. And all winter to run the power angle on my snow blade.
Those awful detents would drive me crazy trying to hang up the controls all the time when I'm using the remotes.
Some people like them, (and thats fine.)
I think they S***.

 

[IslandTractor]

I use my rear remotes a lot.
I use them all summer to run my top and tilt cylinders. And all winter to run the power angle on my snow blade.
Those awful detents would drive me crazy trying to hang up the controls all the time when I'm using the remotes.
Some people like them, (and thats fine.)
I think they S***.

The DKse has one rear remote with spring loaded resistance that makes feathering power much easier than without. If you push harder the lever hits the detent and sticks. Works fine. I like the DKse setup more than the CK remotes which did not have detents.

Without the ability to lock the remote you don't have the flexibility to use the remotes for a backhoe or log splitter etc.