I am now detent-less on my DK45SE

[J_J]

How is it that one obtains feathering to the end of the lever movement? The spool should be fully opened and fluid flowing at max GPM's by the time you get into detent.

Just how much distance is the the top of the lever moving from neutral and say fwd/down detent? You might try longer levers.

There is no reason you can't remove them, and some people want the detent kits to add to their valve spools, because they have a need for detent.

 

[EGo_SmAsH]

My CK20 has detents...don't they all?

The DKse has one rear remote with spring loaded resistance that makes feathering power much easier than without. If you push harder the lever hits the detent and sticks. Works fine. I like the DKse setup more than the CK remotes which did not have detents.

Without the ability to lock the remote you don't have the flexibility to use the remotes for a backhoe or log splitter etc.

 

[MotorSeven]

Ummm, guys....if you are running Top & Tilt like me, both rear remotes are in use all the time the BB is on the tractor(and it's on mine a lot). Therefore a loop will not help at all. It is extremely easy to accidently hit the lever that has detents and "stick it" which deadhead the IP, and I did it several times.
Why does it bother y'all that we neutered our valves? I can stick 'em back in if I ever want to run a log splitter...no big and way better than burning up a IP...and that can happen.

 

[DK35vince]

Ummm, guys....if you are running Top & Tilt like me, both rear remotes are in use all the time the BB is on the tractor(and it's on mine a lot). Therefore a loop will not help at all. It is extremely easy to accidently hit the lever that has detents and "stick it" which deadhead the IP, and I did it several times.
Why does it bother y'all that we neutered our valves? I can stick 'em back in if I ever want to run a log splitter...no big and way better than burning up a IP...and that can happen.

Exactly.
I have owned my tractor for over 10 years. My rear remotes are being used all the time for top and tilt and snow blade.
I have never once needed a to lock a control valve. My backhoe plugs in under the right side floorboard and does not use the remotes.
Detents for me (and I'm sure several others) would be more of a hindrance than a help.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Ummm, guys....if you are running Top & Tilt like me, both rear remotes are in use all the time the BB is on the tractor(and it's on mine a lot). Therefore a loop will not help at all. It is extremely easy to accidently hit the lever that has detents and "stick it" which deadhead the IP, and I did it several times.
Why does it bother y'all that we neutered our valves? I can stick 'em back in if I ever want to run a log splitter...no big and way better than burning up a IP...and that can happen.

All the detented valves Iv seen on tractors kick back to neutral at overpressure. That way in the field you can flip the lever to take an implement up or down and it flips back to neutral all by itself as soon as the motion is complete. Feathering is done prior to the detent/full open position, by a partial movement of the lever. I dont have a Kioti, but arent their valves set up the same? ... perhaps too firmly detented for the Kioti system pressure? :confused2: It may be that raising system relief pressure a couple hundred psi would solve the problem, giving automatic kickback while staying within the hyd system design tolerance.
... More loader force too ... a win -win:confused3:
larry

 

[tpulley]

The hose to resolve the way the valve operates is not a solution for me. I want to use the RR. With a hose there it then becomes an ornament.

I saw on a post that someone suggested using a bungi cord to pull it back. I am suprised no one mentioned DUCT Tape.

As for the feathering part, I was referring to the ability to actually use the RR as gently or forcibly as I wanted/needed to. With the detent balls there several times I found while using it the valve would get stuck in the detent. I would jerk it back out and lose some of the momentum I had dropping or lowering the toplink.

 

[MotorSeven]

"All the detented valves Iv seen on tractors kick back to neutral at overpressure. "

Negative, not mine, it sticks in either direction and will not return unless I jerk it back. It had gotten stuck a couple of times for several min and long enough to where all hydraulic implements stopped working,,,,that is really not good.

 

[slowzuki]

Yup most brands with detents kick out. Which is bloody annoying if you accidentally dead head the wood splitter because you have to get back up in the cab. I wish my Kubota had the detents, not even an option.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Yup most brands with detents kick out. Which is bloody annoying if you accidentally dead head the wood splitter because you have to get back up in the cab. I wish my Kubota had the detents, not even an option.

Bungee works great to augment detent for special use on my kick out type. I regard the kick out as a great safety feature. Mine kick at around 2500PSI. System relief pressure is a little higher, but they wont kick out at idle when hot.
larry

 

[SSdoxie]

All the detented valves Iv seen on tractors kick back to neutral at overpressure. That way in the field you can flip the lever to take an implement up or down and it flips back to neutral all by itself as soon as the motion is complete. Feathering is done prior to the detent/full open position, by a partial movement of the lever. I dont have a Kioti, but arent their valves set up the same? ... perhaps too firmly detented for the Kioti system pressure? :confused2: It may be that raising system relief pressure a couple hundred psi would solve the problem, giving automatic kickback while staying within the hyd system design tolerance.
... More loader force too ... a win -win:confused3:
larry

The auto kick back to neutral is a special valve with internal circuitry to release the detent when system hits a certain pressure. This is used commonly in larger tractors built more for intent of ground, field tillage so operator can flip the lever and have both hands available to make the turn around at end of the field.

I have the dual remote kit with detent on first valve and will be removing it also. I do have the loop hose but with hyd. top link the hoses tend to rub using the 3 pt.