split point drill bits

[sandman2234]

This is the kind I use.

National Supply Source Desmond Grinding Wheel Dressers - Desmond Grinding Wheel Dressers Product Page

Probably the most used one in existance, Shield Arc...
Some high dollar grinders use a diamond on a sliding holder to do the same thing, just a little better finish on the wheel, but for tractor work, a hand held works fine.
David from jax

 

[Scooby074]

Another vote for the DD. The upper end ones will do split points.

No offense, but they're not worth sending out to sharpen. Being Chinese, I bet your going to be sharpening more than youve ever imagined.

Once the shine wears off on them, get yourself a set of Osbornes, Walter or Dormer drills. The difference will be night and day, plus you wont be sharpening too much. Good tooling is expensive, but worth it in the end.

 

[deereman75]

Another vote for the DD. The upper end ones will do split points.

No offense, but they're not worth sending out to sharpen. Being Chinese, I bet your going to be sharpening more than youve ever imagined.

Once the shine wears off on them, get yourself a set of Osbornes, Walter or Dormer drills. The difference will be night and day, plus you wont be sharpening too much. Good tooling is expensive, but worth it in the end.

I agree about good tools. I got the milwaukee bits as a stocking stuffer. I also have a bunch of chinese titainum bits, and they seem to work ok, but I think they are gettin dull. I have got a bunch of assorted dormer bits, all of them dull, and not a complete set. Once I learn how to hand sharpen, I will get all my dormers sharp. Depending on how much of a set I have, I will either get the missing bits, or get a whole set.

 

[Scooby074]

I agree about good tools. I got the milwaukee bits as a stocking stuffer. I also have a bunch of chinese titainum bits, and they seem to work ok, but I think they are gettin dull. I have got a bunch of assorted dormer bits, all of them dull, and not a complete set. Once I learn how to hand sharpen, I will get all my dormers sharp. Depending on how much of a set I have, I will either get the missing bits, or get a whole set.

I wasnt crapping on your tools :thumbsup: but it sounds like you understand that you cant get a quality set for $19.99. Now if more would realize

In all seriousness, have a look at the DD. You'll get those dormers tuned up in a hurry, and have the ability to split the point. If you have nearly a full set, the DD will be "free ". The better DD and a set of Dormers (or walters or osborns) are all about the same cost (~150).

EDIT: just saw some Dormer sets on Amazon.. decent prices. 1/16" to 1/2" in 1/64" , $103.00. Cheaper than a DD for sure.

 

[deereman75]

I wasnt crapping on your tools :thumbsup: but it sounds like you understand that you cant get a quality set for $19.99. Now if more would realize

In all seriousness, have a look at the DD. You'll get those dormers tuned up in a hurry, and have the ability to split the point. If you have nearly a full set, the DD will be "free ". The better DD and a set of Dormers (or walters or osborns) are about the same cost.

I guess I will take another look at the drill doctor. I am not sure how much of a set I have, I havnt looked at them in a while. I recall kind of an assortment of bits from 1/4 to 3/8. With the ones I currently have, and the ones my grandpa left me, I think I have close to 20 bits. I also have an assortment of old morse taper bits that came with my wood lathe, can the drill doctor sharpen those?

 

[Scooby074]

I guess I will take another look at the drill doctor. I am not sure how much of a set I have, I havnt looked at them in a while. I recall kind of an assortment of bits from 1/4 to 3/8. With the ones I currently have, and the ones my grandpa left me, I think I have close to 20 bits. I also have an assortment of old morse taper bits that came with my wood lathe, can the drill doctor sharpen those?

probably cant handle the taper bits. You cant get it into the bit holder (at least the holder on mine)

 

[deereman75]

probably cant handle the taper bits. You cant get it into the bit holder (at least the holder on mine)

Oh well, I guess I will have to do those by hand.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I just watched the video, and the guy is using the face of the wheel, after he used a dressor on it to make it smooth. He is doing it the same way I do it. I think the next poster
"Orezok" is the one that posted saying he was taught to use the side of the wheel, which is not the way the video shows, and a more dangerous way.
I know a lot of people that use the side of the wheel for grinding, because it is more convientant than having to dress the face of the wheel, but the only reason the face is not as flat as the side, is because it was used. If you use the side of the wheel and it becomes "grooved or worn", it is almost impossible to dress it back flat without becoming a safety problem (I would think, anyway...). Makes the wheel thin and just plane unsafe looking. The only people who would get away with using the side of the grinding wheel would be in shops (home or otherwise) that do not do very much grinding or sharpening in the big scheme of things. A shop that regularly sharpens drill bits will run into problems using the side of the wheel in a hurry.
David from jax

Wrong one of the two videos posted. The 2nd one uses the side because that tool relies on tipping the bit rather than turning it. A flat grinding surface is needed for simplicity ... vs a curved one. Incidental use of the side for drill sharpening only should cause little wheel wear and since light pressure is used should also be quite safe.
larry

 

[sandman2234]

Wrong one of the two videos posted. The 2nd one uses the side because that tool relies on tipping the bit rather than turning it. A flat grinding surface is needed for simplicity ... vs a curved one. Incidental use of the side for drill sharpening only should cause little wheel wear and since light pressure is used should also be quite safe.
larry

Sorry for catching the wrong video, but I still stand by my concern about using the side of the wheel. As mentioned, a home shop guy MIGHT get away with it for a while, but in a shop that sharpens a lot of drillbits, it can be a major problem. With homeshops, the wear is a lot less, but also the wheels aren't typically changed nearly as often, so the problem is still there, just prolonged. Kind of like using gas to start a fire, some people get away with it for years, but others learn the hard way the first time.
Just for thought, after seeing the second video (had the sound down, sorry) I realized that the feature the guy was pushing had nothing to do with which side of the grinding wheel he used, and from a camera angle, the side he used was more photogenic. The flat side versus the round side is an argument I have heard before. However, on a typical 6 or 8 inch wheel, what is the actual amount of curve in half of a typical sized home shop drill bit? I mean, really, think about it, it is so little, your hand probably shakes more than that as you grind it. If the radius bothers you on the face, get a larger grinder with bigger wheels.
David from jax

 

[Samandothers]

Shield Arc
Thanks for the grinding wheel dresser info!