FEL Snow Plow

[ditzel]

Just purchased this used snow plow on craigslist. Now I need to cut the frame and weld it up to fit onto my fel pallet fork frame.

 

[rondevue]

Looks like you're off to a good start, please post some pics when it finished.

 

[Yandaddy1110]

I dont see anything on that A frame that needs cutting. Why not weld ears on the bottom of your fork frame and just pin it on? Nice CL find.

 

[new jersey mike]

Now I have QA setup so all I would have to do to attach a plow would be add a back plate to it? and run a line to my grapple connections for the rotation cylinder?

 

[JB4310]

Looks like a very good plow, not to heavy or light, needs a cutting edge from the looks of it.

I think the fork frame is a good foundation to work off of. I'm sure you wouldn't do anything to render the fork unusable.

I was seriously considering doing the same thing with my plow/ fork frame but instead went with a tractor frame mount. At first I was gonna lift it with the loader, but just went and made a simple lift.
The whole set up was so stupid easy, that even I could do it.

I had the truck side under carriage, just welded two 1/2"-5/8" plates on in a strategic position, and bolted it to all existing holes in my frame. Stupid easy and wicked strong. The undercarriage stays on and does not interfere with loader install. The lift was also equally simple. Use loader stick for plows 4 way action.

Not trying to change your mind, but have you thought about frame mount?

Some pictures of the evolution of my thought process over a 2-3 month period. Oh yeah this plow still couples with my QH and is pretty efficient on the rear, when used with the loader on front.


JB.

 

[ditzel]

I plan to remove the cylinders, so it will be manual adjusted angle. Also cut out some of the frame so the plow doesn't sit so far out front. It should turn out something like JB's first pic. I'm going to go with the fel mount to be easier to pile up the snow. My property is uphill from the road, so when i plow the snow down my drive, the embankment where i pile it is 2'-3' higher than the road.

 

[ditzel]

Now I have QA setup so all I would have to do to attach a plow would be add a back plate to it? and run a line to my grapple connections for the rotation cylinder?

pretty much! All u need is a buzz box, couple hoses from the local tractor supply and tractorbynet. chances are whatever your thinking of doing somebody on here has already done it and has posted how to and with pics.

 

[radioman]

I did the same thing. I cut a little bit of the A frame back and welded on tabs to hook onto the FEL arms.

 

[ditzel]

I did the same thing. I cut a little bit of the A frame back and welded on tabs to hook onto the FEL arms.

Nice!, how wide is that blade?

 

[LD1]

Take some good measurements before you shorten the a-frame.

Those plows for "manual" angle usually only have 3 holes for pins. Left, Straight, and Right.

Make sure you have enough a-frame that you are able to fully angle the plow:thumbsup:

 

[radioman]

I gotta go out and measure to be sure but I think its a 7 footer. I been thinking of cutting a foot off- 6" from each side to shave weight and gain more pushing power in those thick,wet stuff. Since my tractor is a scut, any weight shaved from plow really helps.

LD1 is right- you need to angle the plow all the way to the pinned hole both ways to determine your final cut so you can make it as short as possible. The shorter the better to make it nimble and swift. If it too long, you just gonna be frustrated when making turns over time.

 

[JB4310]

I gotta go out and measure to be sure but I think its a 7 footer. I been thinking of cutting a foot off- 6" from each side to shave weight and gain more pushing power in those thick,wet stuff. Since my tractor is a scut, any weight shaved from plow really helps.

That's a unique set up :thumbsup:

It's not the weight, but the resistance against the snow. If it is 7 foot, then I think you would be much happier with it a foot shorter. Like you mentioned, you will definitely gain pushing power.

I cut a 7 and a half footer down to 6 and a half foot, which is just right for my 32 HP machine.

Lesson I learned from my neighbors little S-10 with a 6.5 ft plow. How well it pushed through heavy wet snow, better than my HD 3/4 ton pick up with an 8 foot plow.


ditzel, Why don't you want to utilize those angle cylinders?

JB

 

[Yooper75]

I wouldn't cut the frame down because you lose quite a bit of stacking ability. We run a 12ft ProTech Snow Pusher at work and because the bucket is about for feet ahead of the bucket pivot we can stack snow much higher with it. With our big loader we can stack snow 18ft or higher pretty easily.

Here is a picture of our John Deere 544E with the pusher on it. See how far ahead of the pivot point the pusher is? That's all stacking height.

 

[foggy1111]

Rather than shorten the A-frame....why not set your pivot point back behind the loader mounts? My pivot point is 12" behind the loader mounts.....and I retained the chain float system like in the original design.

This mount keeps the plow close to the tractor for better steering and it should prove to be more nimble.

 

[lhfarm]

Rather than shorten the A-frame....why not set your pivot point back behind the loader mounts? My pivot point is 12" behind the loader mounts.....and I retained the chain float system like in the original design.

This mount keeps the plow close to the tractor for better steering and it should prove to be more nimble.

Trying to do this now. Can you give me some details on the steel you used to build the extension (thickness, etc.). I'm not the best welder in the world, but I really like this design.

Thanks

 

[foggy1111]

Trying to do this now. Can you give me some details on the steel you used to build the extension (thickness, etc.). I'm not the best welder in the world, but I really like this design.

Thanks

IIRCC I used 1/4" x 6" C channel (with tapered legs) for the extensions. My build is recently shown under the snow plow section and is titled "Meyer Plow....mating to a JD300cx" Lots more pictures on my build on that thread.

I am happy with the outcome...but have not yet pushed snow with it. There are more threads.....search "FEL Plow" to see others.

 

[JB4310]

Rather than shorten the A-frame....why not set your pivot point back behind the loader mounts? My pivot point is 12" behind the loader mounts.....and I retained the chain float system like in the original design.

This mount keeps the plow close to the tractor for better steering and it should prove to be more nimble.

foggy I know we asked you this before, but looking at that first picture, it looks like if you fully dumped the curl circuit your frame would interfere with the timing bar???

I'm trying to picture the movement, I know the frame is close to the pivot point which is the timing bar, but it sure LOOKS like there would be contact.

As I have commented before it looks like an awesome solid build though.

JB

 

[foggy1111]

foggy I know we asked you this before, but looking at that first picture, it looks like if you fully dumped the curl circuit your frame would interfere with the timing bar???

I'm trying to picture the movement, I know the frame is close to the pivot point which is the timing bar, but it sure LOOKS like there would be contact.

As I have commented before it looks like an awesome solid build though.

JB

Nope.....my gussets will clear the timing bar by 1/2" or so under any circumstances (actually its rigid at this point and nothing changes). Those gusset plates are fundamental to proving the strength to those rearward mounts. I dont want to have to do allot of wrenching to change buckets...as I want to be alternately attach my grapple or bucket too.

I can switch my plow just like a bucket....no tools.....only I have two hydraulic couplers to connect.

As a back-up plan I considered making a bolt-on bar angling to the rear frame if the gussets did not pan-out.....and on some loader set-ups this may be useful. But on mine.....the gussets worked out great! :thumbsup:

 

[TTTTTT]

Here' s the link to the way i did mine. I found an older 8' with good frame and cylinders. I made an adapter to attach the plow the the FEL brackets which can be used for many other attachments the video and thread show the valve and front remote install but gives a good view of the plow setup. It has worked great for a few years now and has great flexibility for other things. I left the A frame as was so it could be used later as intended

Hpe it helps

Dave

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/154201-front-qd-mod-plow-hookup.html

 

[ditzel]

Its been a while since I last posted on the progress of the plow set up. I did some cutting and welding about 2 weeks ago and finished it up today. Here are some pics.