Tractor storage

squaredots · Jan 14, 2012

Hello all, I have been a lurker on this forum for quite some time and have really benefited from the great info you guys put on here. Thanks for that. As for why I am posting, I am a owner of a Farmpro 2425 with a FEL. It is a 2006 model with the yandong engine. I am active duty military and have come down on orders for Germany for 3 years. My question is, is there a way to properly store a tractor for that long without usage or should I just go ahead and sell it (and prob take a loss) and buy another when I return? I have only had the tractor for about a year and it has low hours so I really hate to sell it but I don't want a nut roll to get it operational again when I return after 3 years either. ANy suggestions would be appreciated.

Thomas · Jan 14, 2012

Thats long storeage time,sure dislike like the thoughts of seals drying out,critters eatting beding off your tractor.etc.etc.,do you know of someone could do start up also couple runs arounds each month?

Thank you for your serves.

squaredots · Jan 14, 2012

That kinda what I was thinking. Well, I could store it at my fathers house but he is pretty elderly. I'm sure he could start it once in a while though. The problem there is no where to store it covered there other than a tarp. Might just be more bother than it is worth.

Rich Waugh · Jan 14, 2012

For three years dead storage, I'd sure consider finding someone to make periodic checks of it, though it should be pretty much okay, I would think. That's assuming you can keep it safe from rodent predation, of course.

I'd suggest flushing and changing the coolant so you put it away with fresh SCA-type diesel coolant in it. If it isn't running during that time, the coolant shouldn't change its pH and should be fine. I wouldn't drain it as I think that would risk drying out the internal seals. I would drain the fuel system, probably. That will mean going through the whole priming routine later, but I think that would be preferable to dealing with crapped out fuel in the system.

The hydraulics should be exercised to the point of getting the fluid really warm for an hour or two to vaporize out any water and then shut down. Shouldn't take more than that, I don't think.

Remove the battery, put a float charger/maintainer on it and hope for the best. Store it away from the tractor, if possible.

Wash and wax wax it, ArmorAll the vinyl and rubber, block it up and drain the water ballast from the tires, if any. I'd leave the tires with enough pressure in them to maintain their shape, but no more.

This is based on indoor storage in a place that has a temperate climate. Extremes of climate might dictate other methods,and there are probably others here who know more about this than I do, but that's my best shot. I wouldn't sell it - you've got one you like, why give it up?

Rich Waugh · Jan 14, 2012

If you have to store it under a tarp, regular applications of moth balls will keep rodents at bay. That's a problem we have here in the tropics and they work dandy.

murphy1244 · Jan 14, 2012

Rich Waugh said:
For three years dead storage, I'd sure consider finding someone to make periodic checks of it, though it should be pretty much okay, I would think. That's assuming you can keep it safe from rodent predation, of course.

I'd suggest flushing and changing the coolant so you put it away with fresh SCA-type diesel coolant in it. If it isn't running during that time, the coolant shouldn't change its pH and should be fine. I wouldn't drain it as I think that would risk drying out the internal seals. I would drain the fuel system, probably. That will mean going through the whole priming routine later, but I think that would be preferable to dealing with crapped out fuel in the system.

The hydraulics should be exercised to the point of getting the fluid really warm for an hour or two to vaporize out any water and then shut down. Shouldn't take more than that, I don't think.

Remove the battery, put a float charger/maintainer on it and hope for the best. Store it away from the tractor, if possible.

Wash and wax wax it, ArmorAll the vinyl and rubber, block it up and drain the water ballast from the tires, if any. I'd leave the tires with enough pressure in them to maintain their shape, but no more.

This is based on indoor storage in a place that has a temperate climate. Extremes of climate might dictate other methods,and there are probably others here who know more about this than I do, but that's my best shot. I wouldn't sell it - you've got one you like, why give it up?

If you went with what Rich said, sell the battery don't bother storing it .It ain't worth the trouble.Leave the ballast in the tires, They don't know its not running.

squaredots · Jan 14, 2012

Thanks guys, maybe i'll see what I can find for inside storage in the area that is inexpensive in my father's area.

greg_g · Jan 14, 2012

Trade it in now, for a committed value against a future tractor purchase. That way you'll get a 2012 trade-in price on a year old tractor instead of in 2015 on a 4 year old tractor. And if you make payments while you're gone, you might even be able to get a 2015 tractor for a 2012 price. Then come home to a brand new paid-for 2015 tractor when you rotate back. Solves your storage (and insurance) problem too.

//greg//

radioman · Jan 14, 2012

IMHO, I wouldnt drain the diesel. It would allow seals, O rings, hoses to dry out and crack. IF the farm pro has a plastic tank, I'd would keep it 1/4 full or so and make sure it was treated with biocide for diesel to prevent algae from forming. I'd put in a extra dose of it too. Make sure the treated fuel is in the lines all the way to injectors by running it. change the oil, coolant, and make sure the hydraulics was changed within 100 hrs or less. I would wax up the tractor and armor tires before you go, this way there is no dirt working on eating the paint away from moisture ,etc. I also would turn engine over by hand till it was TDC to have smallest air space possible from condensation. Remove battery and put in warm, safe place like basement and put vaseline on terminals or battery grease. Put bounce (dryer sheets) in engine compartments, under dash, under seats, etc. to keep mice at bay and have your father replace it every 6 months and look for signs of mice droppings. If there is, get it taken care of as mice loves insulation on wires, seats.

When you return, drain fuel, fill with fresh fuel, check fluids.I would bleed the fuel lines to get rid of old fuel from lines. you might want to do a complete fluid replacement as it could be contaminated with water from condensation.
After running for an hour, I would change the fuel filter(s) and run it again and check the color of the filters. If it done right, you shouldnt have dark color matter in the fuel filter and you should be trouble free.

This might be alot of work, but I think doing this will ensure the best chance for the tractor and there is nothing like that feeling coming home to familiar equipment that you know the history of.