Metal Roof Question

[clemsonfor]

Just a thought. Has anyone actually inspected the roof/screws? Do they actually need replacing? Again just a thought. I'm not a roofer. When they say it needs to be replaced every ten years, thats a blanket statement. Possibly yours don't need it.

On a safety note, please don't use a car bumper. First off its really ol'skool. Secondly dangerous for obvious reasons. If nothing else I'm sure you could lag an attachment point near the peak, seal it good and leave it there for the next time.

Again its just a thought! Anyways good luck with your endeavor.

Id prolly put a center attachment myself or tie off to a pole on the other side of my house just used the car bumper as some folks dont have as much solid stuff to tie too. But an anchor to the peak would work.

 

[Duffster]

This is why you don't use exposed screws on house roofs.

 

[BeezFun]

... except some of the screw are backing out.

Could you clarify whether the screws were installed on the ridges of the metal (the part of the metal that sticks up in the air like a little hat), or in the field of the metal (the part that's tight against the purlins).

I've never accepted that the screws were literally being turned counterclockwise and backed out. I've imagined lots of possibilties to make it look like the screw backs out, a few might suggest some investigation on your part before doing a replacement:
1. Screws were not installed correctly and either stripped the wood or hit a weak spot in the wood, so the are being pulled out rather than backed out. Contractors who predrill panels on the ground minimize this problem.
2. Screws weren't put in all the way to begin with (hit a knot for example), so as hole in metal wears and becomes loose, the screw now appears to have backed out.
3. Thermal expansion of metal could cause the screw holes to become egg shaped as the panels try to move along the plane of the roof due to thermal cycle. This might cause the screw to appear loose without it actually backing out.
4. Moisture in the attic space allows a freezing/thawing cycle of some kind between the metal and purlin that pulls the screw out of it's threaded hole, again causing it to appear to have backed out (not sure I even buy that argument). Moisture variation might also affect ability of wood to hold the screw.

I'd make sure the air space under the panels is properly vented.
If I lived in an area of extreme day/night thermal cycling (like New Mexico or places in the south), I might consider putting the screws in the ridges instead of the field. I know people carry their crosses into a holy war over field vs ridge, but it seems like putting screws in the ridges is much more forgiving of metal that slides around a lot.

 

[yelbike]

Could you clarify whether the screws were installed on the ridges of the metal (the part of the metal that sticks up in the air like a little hat), or in the field of the metal (the part that's tight against the purlins).

I've never accepted that the screws were literally being turned counterclockwise and backed out. I've imagined lots of possibilties to make it look like the screw backs out, a few might suggest some investigation on your part before doing a replacement:
1. Screws were not installed correctly and either stripped the wood or hit a weak spot in the wood, so the are being pulled out rather than backed out. Contractors who predrill panels on the ground minimize this problem.
2. Screws weren't put in all the way to begin with (hit a knot for example), so as hole in metal wears and becomes loose, the screw now appears to have backed out.
3. Thermal expansion of metal could cause the screw holes to become egg shaped as the panels try to move along the plane of the roof due to thermal cycle. This might cause the screw to appear loose without it actually backing out.
4. Moisture in the attic space allows a freezing/thawing cycle of some kind between the metal and purlin that pulls the screw out of it's threaded hole, again causing it to appear to have backed out (not sure I even buy that argument). Moisture variation might also affect ability of wood to hold the screw.

I'd make sure the air space under the panels is properly vented.
If I lived in an area of extreme day/night thermal cycling (like New Mexico or places in the south), I might consider putting the screws in the ridges instead of the field. I know people carry their crosses into a holy war over field vs ridge, but it seems like putting screws in the ridges is much more forgiving of metal that slides around a lot.

This shows I must know nothing about roofing. I've never heard or seen anyone screwing in the field. Thats where the water runs. Screw the ridge where there is much less water.

 

[Duffster]

This shows I must know nothing about roofing. I've never heard or seen anyone screwing in the field. Thats where the water runs. Screw the ridge where there is much less water.

NEVER put a screw on the ridge.

I thought that was steel roofing 101.

 

[BeezFun]

This shows I must know nothing about roofing. I've never heard or seen anyone screwing in the field. Thats where the water runs. Screw the ridge where there is much less water.

The last panels I bought from Menards for a little horse barn included a drawing that showed the screws in the field, approximately 1" to the side of a rib to maximize the hold down force on the panel. If you google the subject you'll find manufacturers recommend both approaches. I've seen threads here where people froth at the mouth over field vs ridge, not sure it matters that much.

 

[EddieWalker]

I see your point here Eddie. It the guy is a total incompatant person yes paying a Pro would make sense. Now a days many folks have more time than $$. If he gets a rope and a harness and anchors to the peak or something on the other side and works the roof from one side to the other i would not worry. If he tightens them as the instructions say, not to loose or to tight he will be fine. He could save close to $1500. Thats not just pocket change thats close to 2 weeks of take home pay for me.

Its the same way with buying a used vs new tracor implement. If it breaks you took a gamble vs the 2-3x the price of a new one. Or same as paying a pro to cut your grass, you can do it for way less but if you kill it by cutting to short or you gas cap falls off and you kill grass as you slosh fuel all over your yard its your fault, but you did not pay hundreds or thousands all year for it.

Sounds like he is gonna pay a pro but after all this roof was installed by a pro the first time. Where is the warrenty there? Why did they fail? Did the crew of drunks and meth heads overtighten them till the washers bugged out and split, or was it just a bad lot of screws?? This is a firly straight foward job, hes not cutting the tin and installing it just removing one screw at a time. Yes i would borrow a harnes or rent one and tie off to the peak or by truck bumper on the other side of the house over the peak and use a rope lock device as i moved down or up the slope.

I thought the OP said that because of the pitch of the roof, he couldn't do it himself. A 12:12 pitch metal roof is ten times as slipery as shingles. Working on this isn't something that most people can do.

Who said that it was installed by a pro or that there is a warranty? I don't want to assume anything, just going off of what has been stated.

People put Home Depot metal on their roofs all the time. People cut corners and buy the cheapest screws they can find. Others install them in the wrong place, or they don't use enough screws. I have no idea what the perlins are, how far they are spaced or if they are done correctly. All we can do is assume that when interviewing pro's to do this job, that they look at the roof, top and bottom, and base their bids on what they find.

As for this being an easy job, anybody who says this has never worked on a steep pitched metal roof. This is NOT an easy job. It is a VERY dangerous job that can easily go wrong and cause serious injury.

This is NOT a fast job. Nobody is going to do it in a weekend. Nobody is going to get rich off of $2,000 to do this. We don't even know how many screws we're talking about because we don't know the spacing of the purlins. Assuming that it's something that you can do without even knowing the details just doesn't make any sense to me.

Eddie

 

[JB4310]

How do you get a warranty on replacing screws on your roof ???

What exactly would be covered?

JB

 

[EddieWalker]

Was that meant for me?

If I'm hired to do the job, then I will come back if there is a leak. I've done a few metal roofs, and like anything else that I do, if it fails, I'm going to do it again because I didn't do it right the first time.

Part of the way I price a job is if I think it's going to be an ongoing issue or if it's a simple in and out job. I wouldn't bid the job without inspecting the purlins and attic. There are other things that could be causing the screws to fail other then bad washers.

Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

NEVER put a screw on the ridge.

I thought that was steel roofing 101.

I agree with you 100%, but have read links where some metal roofing suppliers say to screw their roofs through the ridges. I don't agree with this line of thought and have never done it this way. I want the screws to be tight and the metal to be held TIGHT against the purlins or decking. Any movement will lead to failure, and I don't see how you can screw through a ridge and not have any movement over time.

Eddie