Knock

[cas1954]

Original oil from factory

 

[banjodunn]

[ . Didn't find any foreign material only a slight film and the oil. The oil left in the pan was barely flowing out of the pan. I removed the pan and found about 3/4of an in of very thick oil. Still no fragments. Decided to remove the pan no apparent looseness there only one rod with a very slight gap. Removed head all look well with all components showing no signs of a problem. Removed all three pistons connecting rods and cylinder walls all rod bushings showed no apparent wear. Wrist pin bushings seem snug. I removed the oil filter and cut it apart didn't find anything conspicuous material.

G'day these two parts make me wonder if the angine was not getting enough oil it is possible to not get enough press but still turn light off ( usually only need 2-3 psi for this). As others have said check the clearance on the loose rod and i would also check the oil pump for scoring. It would not be the first time there has been fault with factory assy from any manufacturer they all have their problems
Just seen the latest post, first oil change is usually at 50 hours.

Jon

 

[IH3444]

Original oil from factory

I wonder what the factory weight oil is, to have to be scrapped out of the oil pan. Wowzer! 90 weight gear oil flows better than that! Have you considered of taking a sample of the oil, and sending it in for an oil analysis?

 

[Soundguy]

I still don't like the idea of the oil being so thick that it left 3/4" in the pan, which had to be scraped out? Was this the original oil from the factory? Modern oils just don't behave in this manner with only 80 hours on the clock. I would also measure the crankshaft rod journals with a micrometer, and compare to the factory manual specs whe you get it. I got a crankshaft once from a parts house. Engine developed a rod knock with low hours. Turned out one rod journal had been turned slightly undersized. Parts house replaced the crankshaft, but I ate all the labor, and additional parts cost.

perhaps it ws the oil that came over on the boat.

after reading the chinese forum alot.. apparrently they arrive with cheap green stuff in the radiator that may or may not be antifreeze.. same with gunky oil.. and super cheap batteries.. requires alot of dealer 'prep' before they are ready to roll..e tc..

that or it was sludged up pretty good.. etc..

 

[Soundguy]

original oil eh.. well.. that may very well be the answer

I think I'd put it back together and run some sacrificial /flush walmart 15w40 and type f atf thru it for 15 minutes till warmed, then drain if it did not knock.. and put in some clean oil / filter in after that..

 

[IH3444]

original oil eh.. well.. that may very well be the answer

I think I'd put it back together and run some sacrificial /flush walmart 15w40 and type f atf thru it for 15 minutes till warmed, then drain if it did not knock.. and put in some clean oil / filter in after that..

Agreed. Get the manuals, mic everything, get a set of new connecting rod bearings, possibly main bearings also, gasket set. I'd pop the valves out of head, relap to check contact. Then reassembly engine if all checks out OK. Then as you say, break in for a few hours on some Walmart oil. Then change that to a regular 15w-40 weight good name brand oil. Keep an eye on oil pressure, and temp. Check both flatness of cylinder head, and top deck of engine block too!:thumbsup:

 

[Soundguy]

hope to hear how it turns out!

hope it turns out well!

 

[Don87]

Be careful using a stethoscope, I almost blew my eardrums out on an engine once. The broomhandle is much safer:thumbsup:

Good luck and keep us updated.

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

Is there a possibility of an injector causing this problem as in what some refer to as a fuel knock?

I have seen a couple where the injector stuck (trash). It would sound like the bottom end was coming out. Very, Very loud KNOCK!...... changed with rpm's.

 

[Ford tractor]

Was using the tractor all morning with no apparent problem . Decided to lift an engine, parked the tractor to install chain on engine . While idling all of a sudden I heard a loud knock coming from the tractor. I went over and the knock became louder as I increased the revs . I shut off the tractor . Next I started it again and the noise was still there as I drove it to the garage.when there I took a stethoscope and tried to pinpoint the noise . There did not seem to be one area that it was concentrated to. The tractor seemed to be sluggish going into the garage and there was a gel in the fuel bowl a few days before. With no luck on the knock I drained the oil . Didn't find any foreign material only a slight film and the oil. The oil left in the pan was barely flowing out of the pan. I removed the pan and found about 3/4of an in of very thick oil. Still no fragments. Decided to remove the pan no apparent looseness there only one rod with a very slight gap. Removed head all look well with all components showing no signs of a problem. Removed all three pistons connecting rods and cylinder walls all rod bushings showed no apparent wear. Wrist pin bushings seem snug. I removed the oil filter and cut it apart didn't find anything conspicuous material. Don't use the tractor a lot used fuel conditioner in last two tanks of fuel as it was getting colder. This is where I'm at at present. Ordered a complete manual of both tractor and engine. Most use of tractor was last winter moving snow did a bit of bush cutting and dug up a few rocks with hoe worked great until that day. Ran out of fuel two tanks before this, no gauge. This is all info to date the only thing I was curious about is a fuel knock and the dealer said the only problem he knew of was an injector problem . On m
Warranty as these tractors are leftover models. STUMPED ....

It could be that you simply had fuel gelling from cold. If you have any bio-diesel in the mix, it can start to "cloud" or solidify at 45F. Yes, that high! That can cause the injectors to misbehave. Sadly, you may have torn down the engine for no reason.