Knock
- Thread starter cas1954
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6thgpSF
Gold Member
you might want to have your injectors tested,I had one dumping too much fuel and bent a valve.Was it overheating?...russ
RoyJackson
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It sounds like you have the engine torn down almost completely...is that correct?
When did you use the stethoscope?
Here's what I'm going to ask you to do....type up a post of what you have done already. That will include your original troubleshooting before disassembling the engine.
I think these one sentence posts (in no apparent chronological order) are confusing folks (they're definitely confusing me).
Once that post is done, maybe we can help you...if would also help if you let us know a little about your mechanical skills (have you rebuilt a diesel engine before?) and your location.
Was using the tractor all morning with no apparent problem . Decided to lift an engine, parked the tractor to install chain on engine . While idling all of a sudden I heard a loud knock coming from the tractor. I went over and the knock became louder as I increased the revs . I shut off the tractor . Next I started it again and the noise was still there as I drove it to the garage.when there I took a stethoscope and tried to pinpoint the noise . There did not seem to be one area that it was concentrated to. The tractor seemed to be sluggish going into the garage and there was a gel in the fuel bowl a few days before. With no luck on the knock I drained the oil . Didn't find any foreign material only a slight film and the oil. The oil left in the pan was barely flowing out of the pan. I removed the pan and found about 3/4of an in of very thick oil. Still no fragments. Decided to remove the pan no apparent looseness there only one rod with a very slight gap. Removed head all look well with all components showing no signs of a problem. Removed all three pistons connecting rods and cylinder walls all rod bushings showed no apparent wear. Wrist pin bushings seem snug. I removed the oil filter and cut it apart didn't find anything conspicuous material. Don't use the tractor a lot used fuel conditioner in last two tanks of fuel as it was getting colder. This is where I'm at at present. Ordered a complete manual of both tractor and engine. Most use of tractor was last winter moving snow did a bit of bush cutting and dug up a few rocks with hoe worked great until that day. Ran out of fuel two tanks before this, no gauge. This is all info to date the only thing I was curious about is a fuel knock and the dealer said the only problem he knew of was an injector problem . On m
Warranty as these tractors are leftover models. STUMPED ....
Warranty as these tractors are leftover models. STUMPED ....
RoyJackson
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- John Deere 4052R Cab,, Deere 855D UTV, Z920A Zero Turn Mower and assorted implements
First, use Google or another search engine for this query:
fuel injector knocking noise
Read some of the articles and see if what you heard applies. With only 80 hours on the engine, unless there was an assembly problem, there should not be a bottom end problem.
Since the engine is apart, you must determine if you want to replace the main bearings and rod bearings when you reassemble the engine. I hope the manuals you bought give you the specs for the crank journals so you can measure them (you never know about Chinese stuff...) to order the correct bearings. If the journals are out of spec (undersized), I'd have it magnetic particle inspected, along with the rods. It could be a used crank that's been reground. Like I wrote...with Chinese stuff, you never know.
Use Google again for this query: How to lubricate main and rod bearings during an engine overhaul.
I've used a paste of oil and anti-seize compound.
Once you measure everything and start rebuilding the engine, assemble per your overhaul manual. Use TBN if you get stuck.
When everything to together, fresh oil in the sump, etc...start it up.
If the knock is gone...great...if not, check those injectors first!! My gut feeling is you had an injector knock.
I hope you didn't tear that engine down for no reason...
fuel injector knocking noise
Read some of the articles and see if what you heard applies. With only 80 hours on the engine, unless there was an assembly problem, there should not be a bottom end problem.
Since the engine is apart, you must determine if you want to replace the main bearings and rod bearings when you reassemble the engine. I hope the manuals you bought give you the specs for the crank journals so you can measure them (you never know about Chinese stuff...) to order the correct bearings. If the journals are out of spec (undersized), I'd have it magnetic particle inspected, along with the rods. It could be a used crank that's been reground. Like I wrote...with Chinese stuff, you never know.
Use Google again for this query: How to lubricate main and rod bearings during an engine overhaul.
I've used a paste of oil and anti-seize compound.
Once you measure everything and start rebuilding the engine, assemble per your overhaul manual. Use TBN if you get stuck.
When everything to together, fresh oil in the sump, etc...start it up.
If the knock is gone...great...if not, check those injectors first!! My gut feeling is you had an injector knock.
I hope you didn't tear that engine down for no reason...
Soundguy
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yep.. after reading thru both threads.. I'd be leaning on that too.. especially if there was no low oil pressure / lamp issue.
if the main and rod bearings don't looked scuffed and crank is good.. and it was a knock that started, and not one that had alreay been there.. coupled witht he fact that it was sluggish after the knock.
fuel injector pop off test is what I'd hit next. ( after mic'ing journals and plastigauging of course.. )
soundguy
if the main and rod bearings don't looked scuffed and crank is good.. and it was a knock that started, and not one that had alreay been there.. coupled witht he fact that it was sluggish after the knock.
fuel injector pop off test is what I'd hit next. ( after mic'ing journals and plastigauging of course.. )
soundguy
SSdoxie
Elite Member
And if the injectors test OK, look at the injcetion pump. A sticky delivery valve or broken poppet spring will sound just like a wrist pin knock, and have reduced power.
RoyJackson
Rest in Peace
- Joined
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- Messages
- 23,144
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- Bethel, Vermont
- Tractor
- John Deere 4052R Cab,, Deere 855D UTV, Z920A Zero Turn Mower and assorted implements
What say we let Cas get his engine back together...if he needs more help, I'm sure he'll post.
Waiting on manuals and some gaskets, then rebuild engine. Thanks to all of you and all your insight i'm new to this but definately learned a lot about tractors, knocks, and the engine in my tractor. rough way to learn but hands on is probablythe best.
IH3444
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- Jan 10, 2004
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I still don't like the idea of the oil being so thick that it left 3/4" in the pan, which had to be scraped out? Was this the original oil from the factory? Modern oils just don't behave in this manner with only 80 hours on the clock. I would also measure the crankshaft rod journals with a micrometer, and compare to the factory manual specs whe you get it. I got a crankshaft once from a parts house. Engine developed a rod knock with low hours. Turned out one rod journal had been turned slightly undersized. Parts house replaced the crankshaft, but I ate all the labor, and additional parts cost.
