Ford 8n restoration

[Soundguy]

We use VM&M napatha to thin the paint to be sprayed as well as hardener. Make sure you use a hardner. Especially if using BPS paint at TSC. I have used it without, and about a week later, the paint can be scratched off with a fingernail. With the hardner, it is hard as a rock in a day or two..

even better.. find a nason dealer ( carquest? ).. get their hardner.. quick cure, for their SS synthetic enamil.. it's only 8$ a can vs the 14$ valspar hardner. the quik cure hardner produces hand safe finishes in alkyd or acrylic/acrylic modified enamil in 15-30 minutes.

I swear by it.

In some cases I use the nason ss enamil.. but it's way more $$ and needs a medium reducer.. not just naptha... thus overall cost is a bit more..

soundguy

 

[justinhart45]

Thanks for all the help! This was my first post on here (I'm not very computer literate) haha. This info is very helpful. I have already purchased a pneumatic spray gun from Lowes. I just was unsure of buying a qt or gal. I had been told different things by friends. As far as prep I have sandblasted most parts and some of the rear of the tractor. I was afraid to sandblast the engine area. I plan to pressure wash and paint as soon as the rainy weather permits. Again, thanks for the input!

 

[Soundguy]

remember to us a regulator on the gun. and no oiler.. and no lines that have been on an oiler..

soundguy

 

[2458n]

As soon as you are done sand blasting the rust starts . Try to do the sand blasting and priming as soon as possible. You need to use the harding agent. This will also effect the time you have when painting the top color. I recall having to put on one coat and recoat in a certain amount of time. If you do not do it in that time frame you have to wait for like a week before recoating.

 

[LD1]

even better.. find a nason dealer ( carquest? ).. get their hardner.. quick cure, for their SS synthetic enamil.. it's only 8$ a can vs the 14$ valspar hardner. the quik cure hardner produces hand safe finishes in alkyd or acrylic/acrylic modified enamil in 15-30 minutes.

I swear by it.

In some cases I use the nason ss enamil.. but it's way more $$ and needs a medium reducer.. not just naptha... thus overall cost is a bit more..

soundguy

I'll have to remember that:thumbsup:

 

[LD1]

As soon as you are done sand blasting the rust starts . Try to do the sand blasting and priming as soon as possible. You need to use the harding agent. This will also effect the time you have when painting the top color. I recall having to put on one coat and recoat in a certain amount of time. If you do not do it in that time frame you have to wait for like a week before recoating.

I dont use hardener in the primer. But either way, When I am in the painting mood.....I am in the painting mood.

Primer dries fast. About as soon as you get everything primed and the gun cleaned, and the color coat thined and hardener added and ready.....the primer where you first started is dry enough to paint. I do like the primer just a little tacky when painting the color coat. It helps it bond better IMO

 

[justinhart45]

Ok. Will do. This is a learning process for me. The first restoration of many antique tractors for me hopefully! Next will be a 2 cylinder John Deere 40!

 

[Soundguy]

i liked my jd-b.. but the greene ones sure are spendy..

a 40 would have been a nicer choice IMHO...

 

[justinhart45]

this is the n before sandblasting

 

[flusher]

remember to us a regulator on the gun. and no oiler.. and no lines that have been on an oiler..

soundguy

Yep, mine is a Porter Cable oil-free compressor. Don't have to worry much about humidity around here (it's 10% or so during the hot months). I just be sure to drain the water out of the air tank after each use, especially in the cooler months.