Thanks for all your chatter!

   / Thanks for all your chatter! #11  
Congrats on your tractor, I hope it serves you well.
The loops are no stronger than the bolts that hold them but as you said the dealer will weld them. The loops look just like what I have mounted
on my hay trailer to tie the bales down. They are stout but I can't think they
are rated at what you said, but I may be wrong.
If the loops work better for you then that's great but
they are not nearly as strong weld hooks.
 
   / Thanks for all your chatter! #12  
Congrats on your tractor, I hope it serves you well.
The loops are no stronger than the bolts that hold them on unless your dealer is going to weld them in place. The loops look just like what I have mounted
on my hay trailer to tie the bales down. They are stout but I can't think they
are rated at what you said, but I may be wrong.
If the loops work better for you then that's great but
they are not nearly as strong weld hooks.

Based upon the picture, I'd have to agree...
Can't choke a chain with 'em either.
 
   / Thanks for all your chatter!
  • Thread Starter
#13  
As I said, kinda like that. The weight ratings are actual, so the size is not accurate on this pic. it is just the first similar pic i found on the internet. The metal that makes up the ring on the large ones is roughly 3/4 to 1 inch thick. I didn't really need that much strength, but the opening of the loop was right to get the hook on my straps through.

No, you are right, you can't choke a chain with them. That crossed my mind, but I would have to buy a chain, I have the HD straps. They will hook on and loop through. I figured if I ever decide to use a chain, I could pass the chain with a hook through the loop. It would have to be a pretty big hook to go directly on the loop. Hooks on the bucket would force the straps sideways, and would have to be pretty big to fit the hooks that are sewn onto the straps. These loops may not be as good for chain, but I think they are more versatile.

As for stronger than hooks, I dunno really. Maybe they are, maybe they aren't. It seems logical to me that more surface to weld to would make a stronger joint. You could be right though. I guess it depends on the size and strength of the hook, and the quality of the weld.
 
   / Thanks for all your chatter! #14  
Congradulations! Exciting times.
If you need to choke your chain:D
 

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   / Thanks for all your chatter! #15  
Congrats on the LS tractor purchase!

I have a pair of those weld on rings for my bucket(havent welded them on yet)...I like the idea of using straps and d-shackles..some dont but that is my preference..I hate chain other than using it to skid firewood out of the woods I dont have a use for it.
 
   / Thanks for all your chatter!
  • Thread Starter
#16  
OK, so I thought he said, 16000 and 40000... perhaps I was smoking crack. He said that he thinks they are 11000 and 20000. No matter, they aught to be strong enough either way. Here they are:

DSC2778.jpg


DSC2790.jpg


Didn't even take the manual off of the ROPS first.....

This thing does a jam up job clearing my brush. I need to work on my loader skills though. I'm a little rough around the edges.
 
   / Thanks for all your chatter! #17  
OK, so I thought he said, 16000 and 40000... perhaps I was smoking crack. He said that he thinks they are 11000 and 20000. No matter, they aught to be strong enough either way. Here they are:

DSC2778.jpg


DSC2790.jpg


Didn't even take the manual off of the ROPS first.....

This thing does a jam up job clearing my brush. I need to work on my loader skills though. I'm a little rough around the edges.

Nice looking tractor!!
We were all a little rough around the edges when first using a loader...you'll get better.
 
   / Thanks for all your chatter! #18  
OK, so I thought he said, 16000 and 40000... perhaps I was smoking crack. He said that he thinks they are 11000 and 20000. No matter, they aught to be strong enough either way. Here they are:

DSC2778.jpg

Just FYI..., one "school of thought" on bucket hooks and rings is that they should be placed inline with (or inside of) the loader arms to prevent tweaking of the loader. My dealer welded a couple of grab hooks on the outside edges of my bucket like yours, so I added some angle iron and stuff between them. But, now I usually leave the grapple on.
 
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   / Thanks for all your chatter!
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Just FYI..., one "school of thought" on bucket hooks and rings is that they should be place inline (or inside of) the loader arms to prevent tweaking of the loader. My dealer welded a couple of grab hooks on the outside edges of my bucket like yours, so I added some angle iron and stuff between them. But, now I usually leave the grapple on.

This is good to know. I had not heard that. I will be sure to only use the inner ones for heavy lifting. The outer ones should be fine for light duty right?

And thanks Roy. I only got to play with it for an hour before my wife made me come in for dinner. It's OK though, the ground really needs to dry out a bit anyway. I don't want tire marks everywhere.
 
   / Thanks for all your chatter! #20  
Just FYI..., one "school of thought" on bucket hooks and rings is that they should be place inline (or inside of) the loader arms to prevent tweaking of the loader. My dealer welded a couple of grab hooks on the outside edges of my bucket like yours, so I added some angle iron and stuff between them. But, now I usually leave the grapple on.

I have two hooks outboard of the loader arms and one at the center.
As long as one uses the two outboard hooks simultaneously (spread the load), there shouldn't be any problem with tweaking the loader frame.
The center hook is only used for light loads (pulling smaller trees and such).
 

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