A little engineering help on this on gang.

[J_J]

I did essentially the same thing on a fork lift 16 in fork slide. I made the mistake of extnding the 2 in tube to far our, and I could not remove the forks from the frame because the two in hitch blocked the opening to remove the fork, So a little cutting and grinding, and I fixed that.

You can fix your setup by gussets on the back.

Do you remove your forks by sliding to the center notch and lifting out?

 

[High Compression]

I did essentially the same thing on a fork lift 16 in fork slide. I made the mistake of extnding the 2 in tube to far our, and I could not remove the forks from the frame because the two in hitch blocked the opening to remove the fork, So a little cutting and grinding, and I fixed that.

You can fix your setup by gussets on the back.

Do you remove your forks by sliding to the center notch and lifting out?

Yes. That's how my forks are removed. I made sure that the tube was flush as to not interfere with the fork removal.

 

[Rancher Ed]

Did you get it done yet? I'm looking forward to seeing what you do, and am betting it will look great when you get done.:thumbsup:

Ed

 

[LD1]

I wouldn't worry about it pulling, like how you tested it. One thing that I would be a little concerned about, depending on how much you lift and how long of a drawbar you put in the receiver, is having the back lip on the angle it is welded to bend. Hopefully the picture makes sense. I don't know how easily you could weld a gusset on the under side of the angle, so the whole piece would have to rotate, and the top lip couldn't just bend up? Or maybe a 1x2 or 2x2 square tube going from the top of the receiver (at the back edge) to the frame about it that the forks hang on?

Ed

I must have missed the thread a few weeks ago but this ^^^ would be my concern as well. That peice of angle it is welded to twisting if you use too long of an insert and/or too much weight. Angle iron doesnt have much torsional strength.

What did you end up doing to it??

 

[Jerry/MT]

Ok, so one of my favorite mods on past tractors, was welding a 2" trailer receiver tube to the top of my bucket. Actually I frenched it in. Now that I have the skid loader quick connect I can use my pallet forks for most of my lifting. I still wanted the flexibility of the 2" receiver. Therefore this little project. I typically over engineer everything, but this time I kinda feel less is more. 4shorts, I'll be looking for your input here as well as everyone else. Should I add either some tension cords from the angle iron that the tube is welded to up to the bar above? Or weld in some triangular gussets between the bottom angle and the side plates? Or just leave it alone? I know that the machine doesn't have enough lifting cap. to destroy that frame, but I also prefer to be extremely safe, especially when picking. I did do a shear load test afterwards with my winch and a 6000#+ piece of machinery with no concerns. So here are some pix so you all can give me your 2 cents. Thanks for your time. P.S. All safety measures were not in place in the winch pictures, so please do not use those pictures as guidelines for proper winch safety.:ashamed:

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I think that the support member for the hook needs more torsional stiffness for vertical loads when you try lifting with the hook.
I'd either box the angle in so it could be stiffer in torsion or weld triangular reinforcements to give the ange iron more torsional stiffness for vertical lifting.
I'd put one stiffner under the hook and then one more on either side equidistant from the constrained end.

 

[Scotty370]

I have 1300 lbs of RimGuard in the rear tires, and generally have something on the 3pt. The loader doesn't have enough umphf to dangle my rear.:laughing:

Two Questions: 1) Would a notched piece of ...say..3" Channel from top to bottom interfer with fork removal? (Right where Ed placed his arrow)

2) Is the "Dangle My Rear Factor" highlighted in any Strength of Material Manuals?

Glad you draped a 'cable-catcher' (Rag, Sandbag, blanket, over the tensioned cable.........They can be wicked, if they snap! ~Scotty

 

[Travelover]

Actually that side to side piece of angle that the receiver is mounted to is in torsion when there is a downward force on the hook insert. The way to strengthen it is to box in the angle iron so it is a closed triangle from a side view. Or add a second piece of angle to form a square tube under the receiver. Before on the left, after on the right.

 

[Scotty370]

Actually that side to side piece of angle that the receiver is mounted to is in torsion when there is a downward force on the hook insert. The way to strengthen it is to box in the angle iron so it is a closed triangle from a side view. Or add a second piece of angle to form a square tube under the receiver. Before on the left, after on the right.

Travelover- Is that a "Sketch-Up rendition? ~Scotty

 

[sandman2234]

Rancher Ed, good catch...
Granted two triangular shaped gussets would help, or adding another piece of angle to box it in, better, but for the most strength, I would consider adding a piece above the receiver square, with gussets, to give it another plane and put the steel in compression instead of a single plane torsion, if that makes any sense at alll???? What goes in the middle may not allow adding steel to that area, and it won't be as "factory looking" but probably stronger, in case you loose weight and do in fact "dangle your rear".
David from jax

 

[SPYDERLK]

I must have missed the thread a few weeks ago but this ^^^ would be my concern as well. That peice of angle it is welded to twisting if you use too long of an insert and/or too much weight. Angle iron doesnt have much torsional strength.

What did you end up doing to it??

My fork angle is triangulated underneath in that area. If his is like mine its not going to need much reinforcement unless he bears a lot of weight on a long extention. Area bears looking at for sure.
larry