MF 135 Brakes

[CreekRRTRN]

I've been a long time observer here but this is my first post. I'm farming some family land now with a 1967? MF 135. Over the past year the brakes are becoming less and less trustworthy. Someone told me that all I have to do is use a screwdriver to tighten the brakes up. Any info about tightening the brakes up would be helpful. Thanks

 

[pjbci]

I know how to do it but kinda have a hard time explaining it. Look on the backside of the brakedrums from underneath the tractor and find a horizontal slotted hole. You stick a brake adjusting tool or a screwdriver through the hole a until it engages an adjusting star shaped nut. Prize down with tool and it will turn nut and tighten brakes. I usually jack wheel off ground and tighten until I hear brakes start to scrub then loosen a turn or two.

I tried to explain, maybe somebody else will explain it better.

 

[Jerry/MT]

I've been a long time observer here but this is my first post. I'm farming some family land now with a 1967? MF 135. Over the past year the brakes are becoming less and less trustworthy. Someone told me that all I have to do is use a screwdriver to tighten the brakes up. Any info about tightening the brakes up would be helpful. Thanks

You really should get a good factory shop manual for your tractor. They're pretty cheap and contain loads of useful info.

Your tractor has mechanical drum brakes and they are adjusted just like old drum brakes on a car. (They are not a good as hydraulically actuated drum brakes but then you don't have to stop from 60 mph!)

You jack the tractor off the ground , rotate the wheel that you want to adjust and use a brake spoon or a big screw driver to tighten down the star wheel under the slotted hole until you feel a drag on the rotating wheel. Then back off on the star wheel one or two turns til there is no drag. Do the same thing on the other wheel and then take it off the jack and try it out making sure that it doesn't pull to one side or the other.

 

[CreekRRTRN]

Thanks so much! I will try that tomorrow. I will also look for a factory manual somewhere. The left brake is so loose the pedal sits about two inches below the right brake. Will tightening up the brakes correct that or is ther an adjustment in the actual pedal assembly down to the brakes?

 

[pjbci]

It should bring the pedal up, but there is an adjusting rod for that to.

 

[flusher]

Thanks so much! I will try that tomorrow. I will also look for a factory manual somewhere. The left brake is so loose the pedal sits about two inches below the right brake. Will tightening up the brakes correct that or is ther an adjustment in the actual pedal assembly down to the brakes?

The best manuals for the 135 are from Jensales

Tractor & Equipment Manuals - Repair, Shop, Parts, Operators & Owners

My 135 is a 1964 deluxe model with multipower.

The brake pedal is adjusted by lengthing or shortening the linkage between the pedal and the brakes.

 

[WilliamBos]

http://agcopubs.com

 

[dweitzel]

I can't take credit for this. A UK user on another forum gave them to me. Enjoy!

First, make sure that the threaded studs and their locknuts, protruding thru the backing plate, are free to turn. There are two of these studs, (one for the top and bottom shoe), and are there to keep the shoe parallel to the drum.

Next, before adjusting commences, remove the brake rod "clevis" pin, either at the foot pedal, or the brake rod "arm".

Fit the shoes and refit the retaining pins, springs and clips. Refit the adjusting "wheel", making sure that it is free to turn, then refit the rear spring. This spring should contact the adjusting wheel, stopping it from turning by itself, when the spring is fitted to the correct holes in the shoes.

Now, refit the two front "return" springs and retaining plate.

Offer up the drum onto the axle, and refit the two counter sunk screws, Never-seize the threads first, though. (Makes life easier fro the next bloke to remove).

Now, go around to the rear of the backing plates, and adjust those threaded studs inwards against the shoes, until a slight resistance is felt. This is the shoe contacting the outer face of the brake drum. Back the screw off a turn, and lock with the nut.

Next, turn the adjusting wheel right up tight, until the drum won't turn. Adjust the clevis on the brake rod until you can just "slip" the pin into the clevis comfortably, with out pulling the rod to do it. Stand on the pedal a couple of times. This centralizes the shoes in the drum. Remove the clevis pin, and repeat the adjustment of the wheel, again, until the drum is tight to rotate. Refit the clevis pin, turning the clevis once again if necessary, to "slip" the pin in easily, without "pulling" to rod to do so. This is very important!

Now back off the brake adjuster until the drum can be turned by hand. Refit the rear wheels and test drive the tractor, stabbing the brake pedals now and then. Re-adjust the adjusting wheels on either side, to even up the brake pedals. DO NOT touch the clevis' or alter the length of the rods!

You should now have a reasonable brake on each wheel.

*Just a footnote, if the pedals fail to return to the rest position by themselves, you may like to "smear" some Never-seize onto the backing plate studs and onto the inside of the brake shoes where these studs contact. This helps to lessen the "friction" at these points, and helps the shoes to return to the rest position.