Mowing Help with 3210 Bush Hog

[lagunagrande]

My Bush Hog 3210 has a dual blade system. Currently on each side the blades are all facing the same way, not one front to back and one left to right, but both front to back (or left to right). This is causing the blades to hit each other in the center. I can not find any way to re-align the blades. Can anyone give me some tips?

 

[lagunagrande]

I have a video I can post up? If that will help

 

[Zebrafive]

My guess is there is a drive shaft, gear box to gear box that you can disconnect, rotate the gear box flange 90 degrees and reconnect the drive shaft.

 

[sandman2234]

What Zebrafive said is what I would think you would need to do. Just drop a drive shaft at one of the side gear boxes and turn the blades so that they don't interfere with each other, then bolt the driveshaft back to the gearbox.

David from jax

 

[lagunagrande]

What Zebrafive said is what I would think you would need to do. Just drop a drive shaft at one of the side gear boxes and turn the blades so that they don't interfere with each other, then bolt the driveshaft back to the gearbox.

David from jax

I tried this, but there are no bolts to take the side drive shafts off. The only things I can take off are the plates for the blades, lid to the gear boxes, and the main drive shaft.

 

[sandman2234]

Drive shaft has go be replaceable. If you can't figure it out give bush hog a call. David from Jax

 

[Zebrafive]

I have a video I can post up? If that will help

Post pictures of the drive shaft box to box

 

[lagunagrande]

Post pictures of the drive shaft box to box

Here is the picture. There is one nut and bolt that seem to not do anything, I have taken it out, tried to push the bolt out and it refuses to budge.

 

[RickB]

Here is the picture. There is one nut and bolt that seem to not do anything, I have taken it out, tried to push the bolt out and it refuses to budge.

It is just about impossible to get that driveshaft disconnected from one gearbox without removing a box from the deck. You might as well drop and re-time one of the stump jumpers.

 

[lagunagrande]

It is just about impossible to get that driveshaft disconnected from one gearbox without removing a box from the deck. You might as well drop and re-time one of the stump jumpers.

That's what I was afraid of. So I need to take off the stump jumper, rotate it and re-mount it?

 

[Zebrafive]

From your picture; on the right hand side is there a push button on the yoke at about 6 o'clock? Maybe that is pushed to release, and the shaft collapses to the left? Is the round part to the left something that holds a slip joint?

If you find a way to release the cross shaft from one of the gear boxes it might be easier to unbolt the box (if it will move enough to get the cross shaft off than pull the blade carrier.

 

[Zebrafive]

Here is the picture. There is one nut and bolt that seem to not do anything, I have taken it out, tried to push the bolt out and it refuses to budge.

I am assuming you have a center main gear box and two out board boxes. If so, is the other cross shaft different? If so, post a picture of that side. Maybe only one side is removable for timing the blades.

I think the round thing in you picture is a cushion for the cross shaft, not a slip joint.

 

[lagunagrande]

I am assuming you have a center main gear box and two out board boxes. If so, is the other cross shaft different? If so, post a picture of that side. Maybe only one side is removable for timing the blades.

I think the round thing in you picture is a cushion for the cross shaft, not a slip joint.

There is no release pin, I wish there was... Here are some more pictures.

I looked up the operating manual and, I think, it says to remove the stump jumper and re-align it that way. My only problem is that it looks like it weighs around 200lbs with the blades on it. I can't exactly easily maneuver it around.

 

[RickB]

There is no release pin, I wish there was... Here are some more pictures.

I looked up the operating manual and, I think, it says to remove the stump jumper and re-align it that way. My only problem is that it looks like it weighs around 200lbs with the blades on it. I can't exactly easily maneuver it around.

Take the blades off it first.

 

[lagunagrande]

I just went out there with the biggest wrench I have (1 3/4") and it is way too small. I need something like 2" or 2 1/2". There has got to be an easier way to do this!

 

[RickB]

I just went out there with the biggest wrench I have (1 3/4") and it is way too small. I need something like 2" or 2 1/2". There has got to be an easier way to do this!

There are two ways to get this done.
1. Procure the proper tools and have at it.
2. Get out your checkbook and pay someone else for their tools, time and talent.

You get to decide which is "easier". Some of this stuff is plain bullwork.

The blade bolt nuts are 1-11/16" and the downshaft nut is probably 1-13/16, but I'm not positive of that. BH uses several nuts and shafts in that location.

 

[lagunagrande]

There are two ways to get this done.
1. Procure the proper tools and have at it.
2. Get out your checkbook and pay someone else for their tools, time and talent.

You get to decide which is "easier". Some of this stuff is plain bullwork.

The blade bolt nuts are 1-11/16" and the downshaft nut is probably 1-13/16, but I'm not positive of that. BH uses several nuts and shafts in that location.

I'll head into TSC tomorrow and get the correct wrench and support stands. I'll post up the size of the bolt when I measure it in case anyone needs it.

 

[lagunagrande]

Picture of just how bad the timing is off:

 

[RickB]

I'm wondering how this thing got out of time. Back to your first photo; you should check the shock limiting device on the RH side of that short driveline. Did the input splined coupler slip within the outer sleeve of the central yoke weldment??

You don't say whether this machine is new to you, or if you have been using it for a period of time and all of a sudden it is out of time. Which is it?

 

[lagunagrande]

I'm wondering how this thing got out of time. Back to your first photo; you should check the shock limiting device on the RH side of that short driveline. Did the input splined coupler slip within the outer sleeve of the central yoke weldment??

You don't say whether this machine is new to you, or if you have been using it for a period of time and all of a sudden it is out of time. Which is it?

I will answer your first question when I go out and check.

I have had this shredder for about 6-7years. Bought it brand new and it has never had this problem before. I keep the fluid levels up, grease the joints, the works.