Basement Remodel - Removing Load Bearing Wall

[samission]

Hello, it has been a little while.

I am currently remodeling the basement, and want to remove the 2x4 load bearing wall next to the basement stairwell. I have attached drawings that shows the current layout and the new layout. I have had a friend of a friend who is an engineer look at it but he never got back to me about it, he did say while he was here that it looked OK to him but he wanted to run a few numbers and would get back to me. I believe he works more in steel then in wood.

Here is a few things not in the drawings.
The distance from the foundation to the steel beam is 12 1/2 feet. This section of the house is 2 story, but the second floor joists run perpendicular to the first floor, floor joists. The trusses for the roof also run perpendicular to the first floor, floor joists.

Just above the side of the stairwell that has the 2x4 support wall, is the kitchen, and the second floor bathroom.

With the second floor joists and roof rafters running perpendicular to the first floor joists, myself and the engineer did not see this support wall I want to remove as carrying any of the second floor weight only the first floor.

As you can see in the new stairwell drawings, I am looking at running triple 2 x 10 trimmers from the foundation to the steel beam, and then running triple 2 x 10s for the header to replace the support wall. All connections to the trimmers and header will have joist hangers. This may be over done for what I am trying to do.

Does anyone see any problems with this approach?

Thanks for any suggestions.

Steve

 

[Wnc3]

It may be overkill with triples vs. Doubles, but you are only talking about three extra pieces of wood. I think the most important thing is to laminate the 2x10's together with liquid nails to make your beam.
Another option is to sandwich plywood in between the 2x10's.
You can also add some carriage bolts in a w pattern every 16", but make sure they don't interfere with your hangers.
Make sure to match the crowns in the 2x10's and put them on top.

Your spans are not long, but nobody wants a "springy" or sagging floor.

 

[Phast12]

I am not an engineer but, my concern would be that the load would be supported all by joist hangers unless you are lapping with the 3 2x10's on each end or there are posts at each end.

 

[samission]

Wnc3 - I agree, I had planned to glue the 2x10, I like the idea of carriage bolts in the W pattern and will include them when I am doing it.

Phast12 - The joists will be connected to the header the way it is shown in the Federal Products Laboratory USDA manual for wood framing. This would include nailing to the first 2x10 then laminating the other 2x10s and installing the joist hangers. I have included a image from Chapter 3 of the manual.

I don't like the idea of just using the joist hangers to hold the joists or the header either.

 

[EddieWalker]

You are seriously increasing the load on the I beam. To me, that is where you need an engineer to determine if it can handle the load, and what is holding it in place is strong enough for the additional weight, and if the concrete footing underneith is big enough for the additional weight.

Nothing else matters if that I beam isn't big enough. I beams are measured in size and thickness. You need to know both before you can determine if it's up to the job.

Eddie

 

[Wnc3]

Your I beam is supported every 11 1/2 feet so I don't see a problem there.
Your spans are relatively short.
Joist hangers are use used a lot. If there is a wall on the side of the stair way with the hangers, it is going to be on top of your triple anyway.
If you are doing this yourself, go find the best framer in your area and ask him. Better yet, get him to help you. The framers are much more practical people to deal with. They know what works because they have to build it.

Just my 2 cents after dealing with architects and engineers.
You have already done most of the thinking...

Good luck!

 

[Egon]

What does the Inspector for the Authority in question say? Will they require a Stamped set of plans?

Will the stairs have a railing?

 

[BeezFun]

Just above the side of the stairwell that has the 2x4 support wall, is the kitchen, and the second floor bathroom.

Would it be possible to put a steel column at each end of the existing 2x4 support wall and use that to support either a steel or wood beam instead of the tripled up header? You'd probably need to pour a small pad for each column, unless the slab was thickened in that area when the basement was poured. Structural walls are not supposed to rest on basement floors unless the slab is thickened or a separate pad is used. Generally for a wall like that there would be ~20" wide thickening that's 12" deep. You should take your sketch to an engineer and ask them to calculate deflections and stresses. You don't want the floor to feel bouncy even if it won't fall down.

 

[Wnc3]

Are you removing the wall to open up the stairwell so it is not a tunnel?
If that is the goal the suggestion of post at each end would work without much interference. I think a 4x4 wood post would be plenty. I don't think I would
Breakout and do a footing unless you have signs of cracks or failures already.
It could always be done later.
These post would not be carrying the full load because of the beams already discussed.