Coyote machine
Super Member
- Joined
- May 4, 2009
- Messages
- 7,641
- Location
- Southern VT
- Tractor
- 22 SANY SY 50U, '10 Kioti DK 40se/hst KL-401 FEL, loaded tires, KB-2485 bhoe, Tuffline TB160 BB, Woods QA forks, MIE Hydraulic bhoe thumb & ripper tooth, Igland 4001 winch, & GR-20 Log Grapple. Woods BBX72" Brush Mower. Diamondplate aluminum canopy
GH,
Congrats on finding/buying the saw you wanted. I suggest getting an in tank fuel filter for the saw from your Stihl dealer and changing it out along with the new bar you said you will get. Best is to run two new chains per bar and when both are worn out replace bar and chains. Flip bar over every other time you sharpen the chain and clean out the air filter with compressed air, each time you sharpen the chain.
As to making starting a high comp saw easier, try putting it on the ground use left hand to hold top handle, and right foot into the underside of trigger handle, release compression, pull up slowly but smoothly just enough to get a burp out of the saw and then switch off choke to start on the next pull. (Its not necessary to get the cord to pull out of the rewind too far- just enough to get her to turn over and burp). Have chain brake engaged for safety when starting, and as soon as saw starts release the brake once you have a good grip on the saw and feel in control of it.
I occasionally find it useful to see how the guys at the shop start a saw, because they have to do it so often they often have 'trick' methods to keep from doing shoulder/hand/arm damage.
Seafoam good! Stihl synthetic oil- also good; that's also why they give a 2 year warranty on new saws used with it exclusively. They have added ingredients to keep ethanol gas from doing internal carb damage, from rust forming on passageways where the water inherent in ethanol as it breaks down will cause rust that can't be accessed when doing a carb cleaning, thus rendering a good carb into junk.
Which site did you find for tuning the saw?
Congrats on finding/buying the saw you wanted. I suggest getting an in tank fuel filter for the saw from your Stihl dealer and changing it out along with the new bar you said you will get. Best is to run two new chains per bar and when both are worn out replace bar and chains. Flip bar over every other time you sharpen the chain and clean out the air filter with compressed air, each time you sharpen the chain.
As to making starting a high comp saw easier, try putting it on the ground use left hand to hold top handle, and right foot into the underside of trigger handle, release compression, pull up slowly but smoothly just enough to get a burp out of the saw and then switch off choke to start on the next pull. (Its not necessary to get the cord to pull out of the rewind too far- just enough to get her to turn over and burp). Have chain brake engaged for safety when starting, and as soon as saw starts release the brake once you have a good grip on the saw and feel in control of it.
I occasionally find it useful to see how the guys at the shop start a saw, because they have to do it so often they often have 'trick' methods to keep from doing shoulder/hand/arm damage.
Seafoam good! Stihl synthetic oil- also good; that's also why they give a 2 year warranty on new saws used with it exclusively. They have added ingredients to keep ethanol gas from doing internal carb damage, from rust forming on passageways where the water inherent in ethanol as it breaks down will cause rust that can't be accessed when doing a carb cleaning, thus rendering a good carb into junk.
Which site did you find for tuning the saw?
