Removable sides for a dump/hay wagon

[aczlan]

We have a steel deck flatbed wagon that I am looking at adding sides to so that we can use it for hay (we have a "kicker" on our baler, so it will need to have a 'basket' to catch the bales). The idea is to add a 3rd wagon to our inventory so that we can cut 2 fields at once and have the capacity to load all of the hay in the wagon. With the wife being pregnant and my brothers out of the country (in the Ukraine and South Africa), I have a sneaking suspicion that such a thing could be a lifesaver.

The wagon is about 8x16 and I would like to retain the ability to switch back the short sides and dump with it.
Anyone have any suggestions as to the best way to make removable racks to go on the sides?

Some pictures of it:


Dumping some wonderful manure (the reason I want to still use it as a dumpwagon):


Some short sides I made for it:


The underside (before I made stops to keep from dumping too far)


Thanks

Aaron Z

 

[zzvyb6]

Other than the conventional wood fence with stake pockets, you can buy (or make) prefabricated chainlink fence panels that sit on the sides and clamp at the top to keep them rigid enough to take the load of tossed bales. Home Depot has them already made up for dog runs, etc.

The front section needs a special shape to keep bales in and to allow front filling, but you can make those up from the chain link parts bins. These panels can have extra use for you when you are done haying. Since the wagon dumps, pulling off the rear panel allows you to drop the entire load of fresh hay. I HATE untangling the random mix of bales in a kicker box. We even tried restacking bales right off the baler pan until a few head shots put the dampers on that idea.

 

[studor]

I would use the stake pockets that it already has and buy stake rack corner connectors to keep the rack together at the top on the front and sides. The rack can be made from 2X4 of the appropriate length

 

[aczlan]

Other than the conventional wood fence with stake pockets, you can buy (or make) prefabricated chainlink fence panels that sit on the sides and clamp at the top to keep them rigid enough to take the load of tossed bales. Home Depot has them already made up for dog runs, etc.
The front section needs a special shape to keep bales in and to allow front filling, but you can make those up from the chain link parts bins. These panels can have extra use for you when you are done haying.

Chainlink... Hadn't thought of that. Will have to see how much that will run.

Since the wagon dumps, pulling off the rear panel allows you to drop the entire load of fresh hay. I HATE untangling the random mix of bales in a kicker box. We even tried restacking bales right off the baler pan until a few head shots put the dampers on that idea.

We have a NH baler, so it uses 2 belts to kick the bales. That does a decent job of having them all in the same orientation, so it is not as much of a tangled mess. With the hydraulic ram on there to control the side to side, I can drop bales almost anywhere in the box I want.

I would use the stake pockets that it already has and buy stake rack corner connectors to keep the rack together at the top on the front and sides. The rack can be made from 2X4 of the appropriate length

My biggest concern is weight... Dont want to make it too weak and dont want to make it too heavy to take off (or I wont take it off).

Aaron Z

 

[dieselscout80]

I think a stock rack that use to be mounted in a pickup via the stack pockets.

Lock at the 2nd row of pics in this link.
WW Livestock Systems: Livestock Equipment, Equine Round Pens, Gates, Panels, Equine Housing

A option would be to get some porta correl panels to make the rack. I'd find a way to lock each panel down via the stack pocket some how with a pin or chain.

 

[aczlan]

I think a stock rack that use to be mounted in a pickup via the stack pockets.
Lock at the 2nd row of pics in this link.
WW Livestock Systems: Livestock Equipment, Equine Round Pens, Gates, Panels, Equine Housing

Thought of that (and actually have a stock rack for the pickup), but the one we have is too short...

A option would be to get some porta correl panels to make the rack. I'd find a way to lock each panel down via the stack pocket some how with a pin or chain.

Will have to measure the ones we have. IIRC, they are 5' tall and ~10' wide.
Would really like to go at least 8' high, 9' would be better.

Aaron Z

 

[studor]

My biggest concern is weight... Dont want to make it too weak and dont want to make it too heavy to take off (or I wont take it off).

You could make it in 8' "panels" that lock together with the stake rack connectors and the stake pockets in the wagon. Not sure how much they would weigh but you could lay out the 2x4s at the lumber yard and then lift the pile. When I was a kid the front rack never came off the hay wagon and the side racks were on and off like a toilet seat

 

[Ranger Rick]

How about using livestock panels. They come 4 ft x 16 feet long and you could cut them in half and and stand them on end to make 4' wide by 8ft tall sections that you could latch together and still be able to take off. They are heaver then chain link fence so they could tolerate bales hitting them. Rick

 

[aczlan]

How about using livestock panels. They come 4 ft x 16 feet long and you could cut them in half and and stand them on end to make 4' wide by 8ft tall sections that you could latch together and still be able to take off. They are heaver then chain link fence so they could tolerate bales hitting them. Rick

Spoke to the local TSC this morning and they have 4x16 stock panels with 6"x6" holes for ~$22 each.
I measured the wagon with a "wingspan" measure and it appears to be 14' by 7'

Looks like I will get 4 stake pockets, weld them on the front/back corners (to let me have 4 posts there), then get five 16'x4' cattle panels and make 6 panels (2 for each side, one for the front/back.
If I work it right, I could get up to almost 9 feet tall by cheating the bottom up 8-10 inches.
Will a 2x4 sideways be strong enough to hold the sides straight?

Aaron Z

 

[aczlan]

Drew up a rough design for one side and the back:

Green boxes are 2x4s
Red is where the sections join
Blue is the chains for the side openings

Debating if a board across the bottom of the mesh will be needed. Will probably build without and go from there. Easy to add a 1x6 after if needed.

Aaron Z