60" MMM for a B3030HSDC--How Much Effort to Install/Remove

[My Hoe]

Hi all,

As I've mentioned in other threads (that I believe were too long and therefore kind of turned some folks "off," if you know what I mean) that I'm looking at a used B303HSDCC.

It has a 60" MMM. which I have approx. six questions about (with sub-parts, of course).

I have some physical limitations, (discussed below) and I know a RFM is much easier to take on and off, but I don't believe a RFM is appropriate for us. I'll just blame "herself" on that one, as she wants to mow, sometimes, but hasn't really mastered a manual-shift, 11h.p. 42" Ariens rider yet. While I realize the HSD will be much easier to operate, I keep envisioning "chunks" of the outbuildings, etc..., "missing," if she were to operate something behind herself, that she could not see, other than with the mirrors.



1. Should I be trying to swap the dealer the used 60" for a used 72",
(with extra money, of cour$e), based on the pics you see here, and our intended usage, i.e., to put in a garden, thus decreasing our mowing requirements?



2. a) REAR WHEEL SPACERS--I want 'em, as I will be hanging the Woods BH80-X "Groundbreaker" hoe, (a heavier, longer hoe than than the Kubota 7'6" hoe, I believe. IIRC, on some Kubotas, folks could not add wheel spacers without interference between the "anti-scalping wheels" on the MMM, or some such.

Is the B3030HSDCC, WITH REAR WHEEL SPACERS, still compatible with the 60" Kubota MMM?
(Sorry for the red, but I REALLY want those wheel spacers, so if they make the 60" MMM a no-go, I've got to rethink a lot of things.)

2. b) Much of our land is on a variety of gentle slopes, and some not gentle enough for a CUT, which are POORLY-portrayed by these four pics, below. I wasn't sure if the 72" would cause more "scalping," and/or if we just don't have the room to require the bigger mower, as I suspect?

Also, we have a barn, (the approaches to which I realize are too steep and so we'll either need a powered walk-behind mower, or a small rider), a large garage, two or three out-buildings and more trees than I realized, along the road (sorry, no pics there). We also plan to convert perhaps 1/4 to 1/2 acre (of the 1.8 acres) to veggie gardens, health-permitting (please knock on REAL wood for me, three times--thanks:thumbsup: ).



3. a) My back surgeon has me on a 25lb. weight-lifting limit--allegedly for Life (please knock on REAL wood for me--I'm either superstitious, OCD or both--:laughing: ) Thanks.

So, re: question number 3. a): I KNOW I will not be "hossing" this mower unassisted. So...my thoughts were to either mount a small, ATV-type winch, with a longer umbilical control, down low in the garage (like right above the floor) and use it to pull the mower out, sideways--or to do it outside with my truck, but I'm less excited about that, as I'll need an observer and, well, she's not all that "observant," sometimes. :laughing:

I can't fit the tractor INSIDE the garage all the way (height restriction) so perhaps I'll need one of these little ATV winches mounted on EACH SIDE of the garage, so I can pull the tractor in far enough to get the deck inside (hopefully) and use this two-winch system I dreamed up.

3. c) Or one winch, outside, and just turn the tractor around (I'm assuming the MMM only enters and exits from one side? Is that correct?) and then put it in the barn or garage, with the forks.


3. d) But are there any OTHER things that require lifting more than 25lbs., to get these MMM's on an off, say, almost weekly? Like, for example, the PTO shaft which must be uncoupled?

I anticipate putting the hoe back on after each mowing and using it for as much of the stuff I formerly lifted by hand, as I can, with pallet forks, hooks on the hoe bucket, etc.... The landscaping is pretty good, so perhaps I could just leave the MMM for some of my LIFTING work....

3. e) I just wondered how "down, dirty and contorted" one must get, to remove/install one of these things? I can bend down, pretty much, just not lift much--and even LESS when bent down--i.e., the ideal position for my "big" 25lb. limit is NOT kneeling, on the floor, but standing up straight, load close to my body.




4. Rough estimate on the weight of the Kubota MMM 60", anyone?



5. The dealer said it is NOT a "drive-over MMM," but I've seen reference here, in a recent thread, of a 60" drive-over MMM model. How do I tell the difference? It would seem pretty obvious if it was NOT a drive-over model, i.e., linkages, etc..., where front tires would run, but how to tell if it is a "drive over" model? (Besides the tire tracks? LOL Not sure the P.O. ever even took the mower off, before.)



6. I've heard two schools of thought on wider mowers:
a) They allow you to keep your (cabbed) tractor away from tree branches, but get a little closer to such obstacles; or

b) They stick out to hit more stuff, and WILL scalp more than a narrower one. Scalping doesn't offend me, but sharpening and balancing blades unnecessarily does. :laughing:



Thanks, all. I wouldn't be starting so many threads except, as I say, looong threads seem unpopular, and I'm traveling up to see the tractor next week, I believe, so I want to be as prepared as I possibly can, when I check it out. So I tried to keep it shorter this time. :confused3:

Thanks in advance!


Sincerely,

My Hoe

 

[teg]

Hi all,

As I've mentioned in other threads (that I believe were too long and therefore kind of turned some folks "off," if you know what I mean)...

...Thanks, all. I wouldn't be starting so many threads except, as I say, looong threads seem unpopular....So I tried to keep it shorter this time...

WOW, that was a short one!?!?! :laughing: I need to go back and see the other ones... You are correct that with long threads - "we" lose focus... I would have turned away (and did stop reading about halfway) but the fact you haven't had many replies to other threads, rang in my ears...

I can't answer any of the questions, not really... but I can bump this up so maybe someone else can. A couple of questions... do you really need to remove the mower? I would leave it on unless you have to have the clearance. And why are wheel spacers a 'must have'?

60" vs. 72" - how level is your yard? I would only get the 72" if it's super flat and smooth. 72" does stick out and you might hit stuff with it. As for the RFM, true she might hit a few things, it's a learning process... If you have many trees, I would go this route. You can back the mower under branches.

If you have a cab, I would be trimming the trees up to make sure you can not hit one.

For sure, posting 3 or 4 shorter posts vs. one long one, is easier for us... but we'll all live through it

 

[AStanton]

My,
Don't know if this helps, but here's a few pics of what spacers did for my B3030.

 

[Ductape]

Well, I don't own the belly mower for my B3030, but I'll make a couple comments anyway.

If you are putting the 70X or 80X on your tractor (the subframe is the same for both), you will NEED, not want the rear wheel spacers. I'll post a couple pictures from when I installed mine. The two pics are before the spacers were installed, and I had in fact already ground down the mounting pins (bolts actually) to shorten them as much as possible. Though they were not touching the tire when the tractor was sitting still, driving over uneven terrain made the tires rub on the end of the pins..... you will see the wear on the tire in the second pic. The wheel spacers add more than enough space to cure the problem, as well as adding alot of stability. I do not recall anyone on this forum having mower clearance problems with wheel spacers, regardless of what Kubota claims.... but do your own research.

As someone who already has an 80X on my cabbed 3030, I recommend that you go with a 70X. Because the cabbed version of the subframe moves the hoe back six inches, it makes it that much heavier on your tractor. If I head up even the slightest incline, the front of the tractor gets so light that you can't steer. The average Joe won't see the difference in digging ability between the 70 and 80. The 70X is just a better match for the tractor.

With the mowers..... if you are concerned about lifting, put the belly mower on CraigsList and buy a rear mower. With my rear mower, there is no tugging or lifting. Disconnect it and roll it into the corner. Mounting two ATV winches in your garage is creating more problems than it is worth. Teg is right, the tail-swing of a rear mower is something you get used to quickly....... and the ability to back under obstacles is actually great.

Personally, I would go with a 72" mower over a 60" with wheel spacers. This will give you a cut a little wider than the rear of the tractor and gets you closer to obstacles. Your own yard will dictate wheter one will be better than the other though..... depending on how gentle the hills are.

 

[My Hoe]

WOW, that was a short one!?!?! :laughing: I need to go back and see the other ones... You are correct that with long threads - "we" lose focus... I would have turned away (and did stop reading about halfway) but the fact you haven't had many replies to other threads, rang in my ears...

I can't answer any of the questions, not really... but I can bump this up so maybe someone else can. A couple of questions... do you really need to remove the mower? I would leave it on unless you have to have the clearance. And why are wheel spacers a 'must have'?

60" vs. 72" - how level is your yard? I would only get the 72" if it's super flat and smooth. 72" does stick out and you might hit stuff with it. As for the RFM, true she might hit a few things, it's a learning process... If you have many trees, I would go this route. You can back the mower under branches.

If you have a cab, I would be trimming the trees up to make sure you can not hit one.

For sure, posting 3 or 4 shorter posts vs. one long one, is easier for us... but we'll all live through it

Teg,

Thank you for your interest--and you have helped--I think you've helped talk me out of moving up to a 72" mower, as the lawn is not as level as it may appear in those pics.

Re: The REAR WHEEL SPACERS
I feel the wheel spacers are a "must have" because, no offense to Orange (as I love 'em--LOL) but the B's (especially the cabbed ones) look a little "tippy" to me, and I've read a lot about the "pucker factor" here, on side slopes. Some of the areas not shown drop off rather quickly, and yes, I'll stay away from them, but I'd like to mow as much of the slopes as I can, safely.

Also, as I say, reports vary, but my understanding is that the Woods BH80-X is a heavier, longer (i.e., it sticks back further--not that affects side-stability) and something I failed to mention:


The Dealer is Willing to Swap Out the R4's for Turfs.
My understanding is that turfs ride better, but can be a little "bouncy" by comparison to R4's or R1's, which (I believe?) is another way of saying they "ride better," which is a plus in my situation.

I guess I just don't want to be one of those guys (who seem to come away with like near-zero tractor damage, most times, God Bless 'em, on here, somehow!) who tips one over--sometimes with cabs, but I'd be lying if I said I knew which tipped over more often. IMHO, the preponderance of those pics also show the bucket in a high position, (as the machine is photographed on it's side) which I don't intend to do but...mistakes are made and accidents do happen.

I guess I just want all the insurance I can get, particularly with the cab raising the center of gravity. Think about this--I couldn't believe it, but I had a dealer tell me that just THE SUNSHADE added 3-400lbs! Well, if that's true, how much does that cab weigh, you know?


SPEAKING OF TURFS:
Could that be the issue with interference b/w the tires and the mower "anti-scalp" wheels, when REAR WHEEL SPACERS are added? Because, IIRC, aren't turfs WIDER than R1's or R4's?


Re: Rear Finish Mowers:
I hear you about being able to back up to obstacles with a RFM. After my surgery, however, I'm not such a fan of twisting around to see behind myself--in fact, I was never much of a fan of it (maybe I'm too tightly wound? LOL) even before that, so my hat is off to all you guys and gals who successfully use rear-mounted blowers, mowers, etc.... I'm afraid I'd inhale a lawn chair, or some other detritus that wasn't properly "battened down" before winter, if I were blowing snow backwards. "Herself" and I do not share the same emphasis on "policing" the yard(s) before winter--and why would she? I'm the one who's always changing the shear pins, outside, in the blizzard (we've lived in a house with NO GARAGE for 10-11 years now, and I reached my "breaking point" on that issue, hence the move--though I I do make her come to hold the light, or something, just to try to make my point. Two months ago, she left our WHITE [drinkable water hose, for the organic garden] out in the WHITE snow, because she had used it to wash something. "She" doesn't return tools, generally. Rather, I find them, be it with my foot, lawn mower or snow blower, historically-speaking. :laughing:

Well, the neighbor found it the same way I've found hoses and other things that have been left out (not by me, generally, though I don't claim to be perfect). He found it with his snow blower, and now that WHITE hose is in THREE WHITE pieces. :laughing:


Teg--you may be onto something, with leaving the mower on. The "good" areas of the landscaping are very gradually sloped, and the bad areas are almost too rough for a quad. I guess if I stay away from the "gulches and drop offs," I'll be alright.

And I hear you, Teg, on the need to trim up the trees. I'm already building, albeit "in my head," a nice, little "man basket" that "she" can lift me up in, on the forks, if I can't reach otherwise, to facilitate such "trimming up."


My Desire for "Seat Time" UPSTAIRS, Inside the Barn
Well, the cabbed tractor is too high to fit in, anywhere, downstairs, for one thing--LOL. Nor will it come more than partially into the 4 stall garage, even after we pay to have an old-fashioned, sliding barn door put one end of that garage, so I can at least bring stuff I want to work on, into the garage, part-way.

However, I still have hopes of driving this thing around UPSTAIRS, in the barn, to move parts and stuff around, despite the near-universal "thumbs down" I received here, on that idea. We would get a barn expert's (or structural engineer's) opinion (or two) first, of course, (as was suggested by other TBN'rs) and I like the suggestions I've been given for having a "driveway," of sorts, laid down at right angles to the original barn planking, out of "rough cut" lumber, on top of the planking. I guess I was anticipating possibly catching the mower on the edges of the rough cut lumber, and/or banging it into the edges of these "quadrants" that I hope to LIFT PARTS OVER, with the hoe, so I can use the "quadrants" as storage space, as I maneuvered around inside the barn.

That's another reason NOT to go to 72" on the mower--so thank you! See, I need to get as close as I can to these four storage areas, (I think I do, anyway) in order to fill them with items I can't lift, but need to store. So I thought I'd have to take the mower off as it would prevent me from getting as close as I otherwise could. Maybe not, though--maybe I won't have as much "inventory" as I think, and therefore less to store.

Oh! And also, the weight. From the rough math I was doing, I figured that the B3030HSDCC, with Woods 8' hoe and FEL, would be approx. 4,200lbs. I figured that MMM MUST add another 500lbs and, like I said, there was little enthusiasm, and much (appreciated!) caution, here on TBN, re: my plan to drive this around inside the upstairs of the barn.

However, if I do my "rough cut lumber driveway" inside, I suppose another 500lbs. wouldn't make a difference.

For those of you who sweated that marathon post about the inside of the barn (Martian, you, I know, read "every single word" so I appreciate that! :thumbsup: ), I did find two more explanatory pics of the weird, 4-quadrant division of the interior of the upstairs of the barn. See attached.

I will try to "re-find" those upstairs barn shots and attach here.

Thanks again, Teg, for your compassion, patience, and thoughtful suggestions.

Re: The Weird "Barn Quadrants":
If anyone has any idea why these were built, or what their purpose was, I'm d*** curious to know. The P.O. (a builder, who actually stripped and re-skinned this barn himself, except for the very highest regions, where I guess he had help, CUT OUT, with a chainsaw, horizontal members that actually connected these quadrants, making it impossible to even walk to the sides of the barn. (You can see the lighter wood where he chainsawed the 8" x 8" barn beams off--in fact, his cut exposes the "mortise and tenon" construction of this true "Post and Beam" construction barn, complete with the tapered, square "vampire stakes" (my term) that were pounded in to hold everything together. (I'm told this makes the barn at least 100-150 years old, but I haven't confirmed that yet.)

He put in "collar ties," above, made out of 2" x 8" or 2" x 10" planks, to replace their strength, but neither he nor I feel any more cutting of internal structural members is advisable. Especially if I want to bomb around in there, moving parts/light machines around. The P.O. parked his 3,000 lb AMC "Scrambler" JUST inside the overhead door, but he also "sistered in" two 4" x 6" beams, under the floor, and on top of the supporting beams, below, before he did so. (Ask Martian about this--he read it all. If linked you to that novella, I'd probably be excommunicated from TBN. :laughing:

Lastly, thank you for this bit of encouragement--much appreciated:

For sure, posting 3 or 4 shorter posts vs. one long one, is easier for us... but we'll all live through it

[/QUOTE]

My Hoe