3 point hitch Draw Bar

[damon c]

Hi Guys, new to the form (and tractors)and thought I would start out with a question. I want to pull a farm trailer that has a ball reviver with my JD 4310 and I was thinking of getting one of those bars that goes between the 3 point hitch and put a ball on it. Is there anything wrong with this or is there anything I need to know?

Thanks
Damon

 

[jlsmith]

That's what I use and it works fine.

 

[deerseeker001]

that will work,that's what i do

 

[bcp]

You need something to keep it from rotating when pulling or braking.

Bruce

 

[rambler]

The simple bar wants to rotate, and will put some stresses on the trailer hitch, as it rotates fore & aft. They make clips that go one one end to keep the bar from rotating, or better yet is the type like this site sells, that has a vertical bar and uses the top link, with a reciever hitch tube so you can put in a ball hitch, pin hitch, etc. It keeps the hitch level and stable at all times.

The other issue is a safety issue. If the trailer gets tail-heavy, or you come down a steep hill and try to stop, the 3pt hitch can rear up and slam upwards pretty badly, damaging something or jacknifing the tractor or at least startling the heck out of you. Best to use a short chain from the 3pt hitch to the regular drawbar to limit the upward movement of the 3pt hitch.

--->Paul

 

[shortthrow50]

this is the cheapest setup i found instead of using just a draw bar. i bought one and so did a few others on here. just an idea for you.
eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

also, what RAMBLER said, i chain is a good idea to make sure the 3pt hitch doesnt suddenly jump up with a offset load. Heres what i did with the ebay hitch. put a grade 8 bolt in the rear with chain


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/

 

[jinman]

The attachment is the proper setup for a 3PH drawbar with a ball. Just remember if you put in the drawbar stays to the toplink bracket, don't go changing your 3PH lever to a higher setting. Doing that will test your relief valve and may bend the stays. The blue bracket on the left side in this photo is a common way of keeping the drawbar from rotating. Notice it has a cutout slot for the drawbar stay and will only work on the left side.

 

[MMagis]

The cheapest and easiest way is to just put a ball on the swinging draw bar.

 

[tractchores]

I've got one that is a triangle shape and connects to the lower arms and top link and has a 2" receiver in the bottom center. Its got cross bracing making it very heavy and strong and that gives a place to hook safety chains if you've got them. You can raise and lower it with the 3pt so you can just back up to something, hook it on, move it and then drop it again without having to leave your seat. I believe it went for about $150 at the dealer.

 

[PILOON]

Mine is somewhat similar in design to shortthrow5 except that my lower horizontal cross bar is a 300 lb elevator weight that is my ballast as well.
Best of all worlds!

 

[Oldtractorfixer]

For $150 you can get a drawbar and do it right. DO NOT use the flat bar without connecting the top link anchor and tightening the swing stabalizers. Several people in our area were killed on old 8n era Fords back in the day using those flat bars on the lower links. Carry too high and the tractor goes over backward in a pull. Go down hill arms swing sideways jackknife and rolls. Or go downhill tongue goes up lose control. Not to mention broken trailer parts. Nothing good comes from those flat bars. By the time you buy the Flat bar, top bars etc you might as well just buy a proper drawbar.

 

[CurlyDave]

I have to agree with Oldtractorfixer.

The 3 point towbar is OK for towing a trailer or a wagon, but the temptation to use it as a drawbar is high. Try a heavy pull and the tractor can tip over backwards in a heartbeat. This frequently results in death of the operator.

Buy a real drawbar and be safe.

 

[Coyote machine]

My Kioti DK-40se/hst came with a factory drawbar, which can be flipped for height differences, and it 'plugs' into the back of the rear differential area with a pin/clip and accepts a ball of whatever size needed. This is another way to do it right, based on specific manufacturer's design and load specs.
I like the drawbar setup that incorporates both the top link and the two swing arms in the triangle shaped adapter, depending on what one is attempting to tow; instead of the crossbar alone with the 'stabilizer' to keep it from spinning.

 

[Coyote machine]

The simple bar wants to rotate, and will put some stresses on the trailer hitch, as it rotates fore & aft. They make clips that go one one end to keep the bar from rotating, or better yet is the type like this site sells, that has a vertical bar and uses the top link, with a reciever hitch tube so you can put in a ball hitch, pin hitch, etc. It keeps the hitch level and stable at all times.

The other issue is a safety issue. If the trailer gets tail-heavy, or you come down a steep hill and try to stop, the 3pt hitch can rear up and slam upwards pretty badly, damaging something or jacknifing the tractor or at least startling the heck out of you. Best to use a short chain from the 3pt hitch to the regular drawbar to limit the upward movement of the 3pt hitch.

--->Paul

Which site, Pepe?:confused2:

 

[MuleMn]

Which site, Pepe?:confused2:

This'un I think.

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

 

[Coyote machine]

This'un I think.

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

Now I'm really confused, are U Rambler?
Hello Rambler- which site were U referring to?

 

[Baby Grand]

Since the 3pt has no down force, it's important to keep the tongue from lifting while you are moving. Here's how I do it:

 

[allenr]

Here's mine,the flat bar came with a Kubota - I added the top link.

The A frame of the top link lifts out so the bar can be flipped over.

More recently made another one from scratch - this time made the "A" wider.

As the hitch pin/ball don't protrude backwards the turning ability of Mk I is a little limited.

The big advantage of a linkage mounted pin/ball is that you can just back-up,lift and go. Just requires some common sense from the safety perspective.

 

[rambler]

Which site, Pepe?:confused2:

One of the forums here on Tractorbynet.com is sponcered by, and has had a sticky note up about them forever now, you can order one from tractorbynetcom.

--->Paul

 

[pat32rf]

Whatever system you use, it should be one using the full three points of your hitch so it doesn't spin and can be lowered enough to get the ball under the end of a trailer tonque. I've never chained down my bar and never had trouble with it "jumping up". Granted I tend to watch how I load my trailers. While I use a 2" receiver and can change ball sizes just by choosing another drawbar, 99% of the time there is a bar with a 1 7/8 ball on it, even though my trailer hitches range all the way up to 2 5/16.
If I were using a trailer to haul a load (firewood, gravel) thru the bush I would match the ball size, and latch the hitch but most times I am just moving a trailer from one spot to another, such as from the parking area down by the house to up behind the woodshed where they are stored. There is just not enough room to swing the truck up there so they go up on the tractor.