Stuck PTO shaft saga

[Redneck in training]

I would put it back on the tractor, block the mover blades so they couldn't turn and engage PTO. If the shear pin is broken it should slip and free itself.

 

[deezler]

Well that would definitely be the "redneck" way to do it, I guess. Haha, j/k. Can't say I didn't have that thought cross my mind. But since it is not pulling off easily, it is pretty stuck. Stuck enough that trying your method might break something more valuable.... me thinks.

 

[aczlan]

Well that would definitely be the "redneck" way to do it, I guess. Haha, j/k. Can't say I didn't have that thought cross my mind. But since it is not pulling off easily, it is pretty stuck. Stuck enough that trying your method might break something more valuable.... me thinks.

Might try putting the circlip back on the end and mowing some heavy grass to see if you can get it to slip... Less risk than blocking things in place that way (assuming that the shaft will extend now).

Aaron Z

 

[jmc]

On the mower end disassemble the u-joint in-place on the mower. Get a two leg puller and hook to the holes. A good puller will have better pull than what you have done. (might be time to buy one at Harbor freight) or just rent one if you don't have one.

Deezler,

I think Oldtractorfixer has the right idea, if for nothing more than the forces are countering each other rather than being transmitted on to the rest of the drivetrain.

On my yokes, the rim around the crossbar is pretty thin and could break if all the force is applied to one point, like with the foot of a store-bought puller. One cheaper and better trick might be to find a shaft the same diameter as the crossbar and simply drill and tap a cross hole at the shaft's midpoint. Run a long enough bolt thru it to reach the end of the implement's input shaft and tighten away. then sell the device to the next TBNer to post the same problem. Either way, if you're like me, you'd rather spend $60 on a tool than spend it replacing a perfectly good part.

John

 

[deezler]

Phewf! Finally got it off last night.

Might try putting the circlip back on the end and mowing some heavy grass to see if you can get it to slip... Less risk than blocking things in place that way (assuming that the shaft will extend now).

Aaron Z

Yeah, thought about that too. I don't have any grass to mow yet, though it is starting to grow with this crazy weather! I also don't have the circlip on the gearbox input shaft... not too worried about that though. After finding out how bad it was (see below) I don't even think that would have worked. it was LOCKED on.

I think Oldtractorfixer has the right idea, if for nothing more than the forces are countering each other rather than being transmitted on to the rest of the drivetrain.

On my yokes, the rim around the crossbar is pretty thin and could break if all the force is applied to one point, like with the foot of a store-bought puller. One cheaper and better trick might be to find a shaft the same diameter as the crossbar and simply drill and tap a cross hole at the shaft's midpoint. Run a long enough bolt thru it to reach the end of the implement's input shaft and tighten away. then sell the device to the next TBNer to post the same problem. Either way, if you're like me, you'd rather spend $60 on a tool than spend it replacing a perfectly good part.

Yep, I liked his idea the best too. While I would rather expand my tool collection also... money is tight and time is of the essence. Plus this existing shaft is not in good shape anyway - it didn't telescope very well, the u-joints were quite loose, the spring clip on the tractor end was all rusted up, and we cut off the guards... haha. So last night I did this to it:

After cutting through 95% of the coupler, it still wouldn't budge! ARG! Had to resort to an air hammer just blasting at it for a while before the coupler finally broke free. Of course, it still wouldn't slide off the gearbox shaft. Had to re-rig the tractor and really yank it still! unbelievable....

After getting it off the mower, you could see a significant amount of smeared material on the gearbox shaft. Had to get the die grinder out next to smooth it back out.

You can see I nicked the mower gearbox input shaft a bit, and also the gearbox housing. No big deal.

New shaft ordered! The saga is over for me, for now. (until I try to change the mower gearbox oil and sharpen the blades, anyway. ha!)

But yeah, sincere thanks fore everyone's helpful comments and to international for letting me hi-jack the thread. This forum rocks.

 

[OBWON]

So what is the best method to clean a PTO shaft and couplers on implements? I'm new to this and I cuss and swear every time!

Just bought an older PTO driven seeder/fertilizer that was VERY rusted. I just soaked in penetrating oil and sprayed lithium grease to get the shaft to slide in and out and soaked the coupler to get the push pin to work. Attached to my PTO with a lot of effort, used it, and took forever to get it off my PTO shaft. Ended up trying everything from chaining it up to my truck, spraying it with lithium grease, and after soaking for a while, used my pry bar and popped it off.

Other than putting a wire brush to it and greasing, what's the best method to make all of this easier? I'm breaking out in a helluva sweat just hooking stuff up....

 

[aczlan]

So what is the best method to clean a PTO shaft and couplers on implements? I'm new to this and I cuss and swear every time!
<snip>
Other than putting a wire brush to it and greasing, what's the best method to make all of this easier? I'm breaking out in a helluva sweat just hooking stuff up....

I would take it apart (pull the sliding parts apart, CAREFULLY remove the locking pin, etc), degrease them, then wirebrush everything, wipe it off with a damp rag to get the dust off and hit it with grease.

Aaron Z

 

[deezler]

From my (limited) experience thus far, it definitely appears possible that corrosion on either the tractor, PTO shaft, or implement shaft can create a situation where there is no more sliding clearance - I.E. the two parts have now become an interference fit.

So wire brushing off the flaky stuff may not be enough. If there is a harder, raised layer of corrosion, you need to get it actually ground off before things are really going to slide freely, whether using grease or not. A wire brush might be enough - but it also might not be. If the surface is still lumpy or pitted after wire brushing, my recommendation is to get out the air tools.

And then, yes, as aczlan noted, get the rusty dust OUT of the way before greasing, or else it will act like sand and contribute to high sliding friction.

 

[aczlan]

To clarify, by "wirebrushing" I meant using a wire wheel in an angle grinder on the shaft, in a bench grinder (if available) for the pin and a hand brush (or a piece of sandpaper in a dowel on a drill) to clean out the hole for the pin.
No comparison between a hand brush and a wire wheel in an angle grinder.


Aaron Z

 

[deezler]

Right on.