Ford 2N - 1945

[Cleon Rogers]

Is the lift fork supposed to be straight? Mine is bent. Both sides are bent the same amount and it looks like it could be made that way. The bend starts right after the curved reinforcement on both legs. Hard to tell from the Parts Manual diagram.

 

[Soundguy]

bottom left

 

[Cleon Rogers]

Thanks SouNdguy. Saw that pic in the manual but still couldn't tell. Straightened it and put it back in. Filled oil to just below PTO with side cover off. No leak coming from the relief valve. No obvious leak from the stand pipe. Didn't see any around the gasket areas. No drips from the ram cylinder. Some "tiny bubbles" coming up from the pump area. The rebuild kit is on the way from Just8ns.

The previous photo of the control valve and its bent internal shaft aren't a problem. I finally figured out that the oil doesn't flow through the hole in the valve. The valve side blocks holes in the pump that are perpendicular to the valve. When the control arm (fork) is all the way forward, the intake ports are exposed (OPEN) at the tapered end of the control valve. When the valve is part way out of the pump to the rear (NUETRAL), both the intake and exhaust ports are both blocked (CLOSED) . When the valve is pulled more to the rear of the pump (and tractor), the two small exhaust ports (further forward of the intake ports inside the pump) are exposed (OPEN) to the control valve taper on that end. When the control arm (fork) is bent to the rear, as my was, the valve can't be moved forward enough to open the intake port.

Since my lift will hold up after manually lifting it (and the lever in the up position), it seems to indicate that the RAM cylinder is good. But since the hydraulics won't lift anything heavy, and it doesn't have obvious leaks elsewhere, it seems to indicate that the pump needs rebuilding. We'll see...

Also, finally figured out how to search the 'N' archives at yesterdays tractors. Wow, there is a lot to read on hydraulics. Found the one by SouNdguy, pushing in the clutch and turning the PTO shaft by hand to manually operate the pump and lift - engine not required. NEAT TRICK. I tried that and my lift didn't go up.

[Since the archives are alphabetical, I found 'hydraulics' around page 760, just entered '760' in the URL - http://www.ytmag.com/nboard/messages/archive760.htm] (location on 19MAR2012)

Cleon

 

[Cleon Rogers]

Photos of the 1951 8N lift cover and more... (It has the side distributor).

photo 1 shows the 8N lift cover damage.
photo 2 shows the wasp nest inside the housing.
photo 3 shows the 8N side distributor.
photo 4 shows a 9N lift cover side view with the external access via a hex plug by the stand pipe port.

Click the pix for a zoom view...

 

[Soundguy]

it could be that the valve/chambers/pistons are worn..

 

[Cleon Rogers]

Bad News. Got the rebuilt kit and was cleaning everything when I discovered a crack in the pump under the PTO bushing. It ran from there down behind the bushing for the control valve.

Oh well, I took a dremel tool and cutting wheel to open the crack about 1/32" and put some JB Weld, thinking it was worth a try. Didn't work... Same problem. The lift holds up a boom for a day, but it won't lift it. If I help it, it will hold it. Still getting tiny bubbles in the fluid under the pump, maybe less than before. Can the pumps be brazed with any success? Will the heat warp/crack the pump? Is the pump cast iron or cast steel? Anyone have a 9N/2N pump base for sale, cheap?

Oh, my side chamber cylinders were scratched so I used the ones from the 8N. My kit had new pistons, etc.

It still works for mowing and pulling stuff...

Cleon

 

[Soundguy]

pump base can be aluminum or iron.. i say cast iron.. it may in fact be cast steel.

i would not have tried the jb weld.. you will have to clean 100% of it out to actually do a correct repair.

my choice for that would be silver solder... but yeah.. could be brazed.. could probably be welded using the correct rod and some preheat and slow cool.. i've welded cast iron on tractors before with great results....

this guy may have a pump base. or entire pump.. friend of mine that parts tractors:

webbtractor@gmail.com

also can try this guy.. I've bought (literally) tons of parts from him.

Smith's Old Ford Tractors john smith. his site shows none for sale whole.. but he has a whole barn full of parts and may have a pump base.. hopefully one of them does..

mention my name... probably won't help any.. but won't hurt either..

soundguy

 

[whodat526]

where are you located

 

[Cleon Rogers]

My 2N's pump is not aluminum. It has "CS" and "CO" embossed in the metal. Maybe cast steel for "CS"? Which is better for a novice to use to do a good enough job, silver solder or brazing? Have some of the Nickel/Silver Blue rods and have a small two-bottle setup, a BernzOMatic ToteTorch, but don't know if it will run long enough to heat the thick metal. Oxygen tank lasts around 8-10 minutes. Mainly used for lightweight stuff and plumbing.

My 8N's pump is aluminum. I have other 8N parts that I could swap for a 9N/2N pump base. Just need the base, everything else came with the kit, except the side chambers, which I took for the 8N and measured with a mic.

Sent emails for pump parts to both contacts and mentioned SouNdGuy.

Cleon

 

[Cleon Rogers]

I'm in Little Rock, Arkansas.