Ford 2N - 1945

[Soundguy]

i don't know what the CO/CS raised castings are for.. but have my doubts about it being for material of the base, vs some engineering code. there is a mix of cast iron and cast steel parts on these tractors.. cast steel welds as easy as cast iron, IMHO.. cast iron can be welded if you take yer time, have a good rod to work with, and slow cool and preheat, and also keep heat on it while welding.

in your case, i'd cleran it all up and remove 101% of the jb weld, and then flux the bajeebers out of it and then silver solder it. silver solder will be the easiest fix by far, vs welding or brazing. fixing with solder is just like sweating a pipe.. clean and flux it.. in this case.. i'd wire wheel it to remove any oxidized iron.. flux is your friend.. the mor ethe better.. heat the part, and us ethe solder as a scratch tool / test.. once it will melt ont he metal, keep heating the part to lead the older and run it where you need it letting it wet and flow, not gob up. after it sheens over cleanthe excess up with a file or sand paper, and then clean the flux off.

ps.. if you had a spare 8n pump and hyd top cover, you could swap them as a pair, and that would give yer 2n position control.

good luck on the used parts or the repair.

depending on where the crack is, and what it goes into under the surface will determine how easy or difficult the repair is.. or if it is even possible.

My 2N's pump is not aluminum. It has "CS" and "CO" embossed in the metal. Maybe cast steel for "CS"? Which is better for a novice to use to do a good enough job, silver solder or brazing? Have some of the Nickel/Silver Blue rods and have a small two-bottle setup, a BernzOMatic ToteTorch, but don't know if it will run long enough to heat the thick metal. Oxygen tank lasts around 8-10 minutes. Mainly used for lightweight stuff and plumbing.

My 8N's pump is aluminum. I have other 8N parts that I could swap for a 9N/2N pump base. Just need the base, everything else came with the kit, except the side chambers, which I took for the 8N and measured with a mic.

Sent emails for pump parts to both contacts and mentioned SouNdGuy.

Cleon

 

[Cleon Rogers]

John at Smiths8n shipped a 9N/2N pump base today. I'm getting pretty quick at removing & replacing the pump. Draining the oil is the messy part.

Another question:
Is it normal for the voltage meter to read 16V or more when at mid throttle? It drops back to around 14V at low idle.

 

[LD1]

John at Smiths8n shipped a 9N/2N pump base today. I'm getting pretty quick at removing & replacing the pump. Draining the oil is the messy part.

Another question:
Is it normal for the voltage meter to read 16V or more when at mid throttle? It drops back to around 14V at low idle.

If you are talking about the meter on the tractor itself, it is NOT a volt meter. It is an amp meter. And yes that sounds about normal.

If you are checking the volts with an ACTUAL DVOM, then that would only be normal if it is a 12v converted tractor

 

[Soundguy]

if it's a digital meter and a 6v genny, then it's normal as well.. consumer grade digital meters have realitively slow sampling rates and brush noise causes an error factor and you see spikes in the voltage,....remember how a vibrating field control vreg works with a generator. the field contact opens and closes very fast many times a minute.. when closed, field gets max current as the field contacts short across the bias resistor, when the contacts are open there is a bias resistor inline providing a small amount of field current so that there are not wild swings of no charging to alot of charging, but rather swings from low charge to alot of charge. thus during the small window of max field current, the genny is also putting out high charge. the battery in the circuit acts to average this, but if you looked at the voltage on a time based graphing scope, you'd see the peaks and vallies if you set the resoloution correctly.

analog meters are much more usefull for this application..

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

John at Smiths8n shipped a 9N/2N pump base today. I'm getting pretty quick at removing & replacing the pump. Draining the oil is the messy part.

Another question:
Is it normal for the voltage meter to read 16V or more when at mid throttle? It drops back to around 14V at low idle.

glad to hear John got ya covered.

 

[Cleon Rogers]

Thanks all.

It is a 12V conversion with an alternator.

Maybe I'll break out the old o-scope and take a look? Naw...

Cleon

 

[Soundguy]

is it an old style alternator with an external mechanical vreg? if so, same applies.

if it's mroe modern with an electron reg, internal or external, then it should not be making over 15.1v max

if a delco 3 wire 10/12 SI modle, is the #2 wire looped directly over to the charge stud? it should be. if #2 has any resistance inline to it, to the charge stud, it can / will cause hagh charge.

in hte end.. if it is charging high , it's likely a bad alt ( reg problem )

soundguy

 

[Cleon Rogers]

YeeHaw! Houston, we have hydraulic-LIFT OFF,

is what I said to John at Smith's Ford Tractor parts. I got the hyd pump yesterday and put in on this morning. It worked. Did discover a small hairline crack in the square hole, below where the brass PTO bushing goes, same as mine. John said those are common, so I put it on and lifted my bush hog with hydraulics (instead of a jack) for the first time. My crack extended from there down under the bushing for the control valve.

Soundguy, I'll check the reg stuff tomorrow. Thanks, everyone, and especially John Smith for replying so quickly to emails. Saved me a trip to the house and a few hours.

Cleon

 

[Soundguy]

yep, he's a great guy.. he's gotten me out of binds many times

 

[Cleon Rogers]

The alternator has 'Motorcraft' on the side and three wires coming from it. Will look more today.

Friday, while using the box blade to clear stuff, I ran into a branch that put a hole in the radiator. Removed the one from the 8N, but the shroud is different, so I'm swapping that today. Also, going to swap the spark plug wires to the copper core while hood is off. A couple of the old carbon center wires's insulation was rubbed off by the alternator belt. When the radiator leaked, the wires got wet, and the tractor wouldn't run. Dried them off and it stated ok, though. Got the tractor back to the garage-in-a-box/tent shelter for the repairs in the shade. (makes me a Shade-Tent mechanic)

Cleon