1972 ford 4000

   / 1972 ford 4000 #11  
its locked up is there a way to get it moved into shop?

maybe someone will tell you

Shift the traction disconnect into the disconnected position. Operator's manual tells how. With no regulated circuit pressure, the transmission defaulted to Park, just like it is supposed to.
 
   / 1972 ford 4000
  • Thread Starter
#12  
where is the traction dissonnect..i have no operators manual
 
   / 1972 ford 4000 #13  
Traction disconnect is on the Right side of the rear center housing - just behind the step plate. There is a handle there. Unscrew the bolt and turn the handle to the other location. You probably will have to rock the tractor a bit to get it to move.
If you find that the problem is to big or too expensive to fix my buddy has a complete tranny and rear end he would like to find a tractor for - depending on where you are located of course.
 
   / 1972 ford 4000 #14  
Traction disconnect is on the Right side of the rear center housing - just behind the step plate. There is a handle there. Unscrew the bolt and turn the handle to the other location. You probably will have to rock the tractor a bit to get it to move.
If you find that the problem is to big or too expensive to fix my buddy has a complete tranny and rear end he would like to find a tractor for - depending on where you are located of course.

What are you doing over here, Jerry?

Welcome.
 
   / 1972 ford 4000 #15  
on the right side, just above the step towards the rear is a lever. This is the traction disconnect. Flip that to the opposite side it's on now, and it should roll. by the sounds you're saying it's making, it either stripped the splines out of the torque limiting clutch (most likely), busted the center out of the torque limiting clutch, or stripped a good portion of the splines off the input shaft in the transmission (most costly). I'd say very small chance of it being the output from the transmission to the rear end. No real good ways to open things up and look shy of unbolting front from the back and rolling them apart...might be able to pull the hydraulic pump off the top left front corner of the bell housing...but I don't recall if you can see past the ring gear to see the clutch spin.

The shaft new is almost impossible to find, and I think requires a 2x split, ahead and behind the transmission. The clutch can be fixed by a single split ahead of the transmission. Will cost you probably no more than $1000-1200 for repair, most of that in labor to split the tractor. I have 2...put new clutches in both. The splines on the input shafts are worn about 1/2 way through, but due to cost, and I don't use them heavy, just put new clutches in them and may rebuild later if they go again.

3 point should still work, remote valve should work, but it won't move. Those normally have a bit of a while of the fluid...you probably won't hear that at all if it's the clutch. No spin, no pressure, no fluid moving=transmission locked in park
 
   / 1972 ford 4000 #16  
on the right side, just above the step towards the rear is a lever. This is the traction disconnect. Flip that to the opposite side it's on now, and it should roll. by the sounds you're saying it's making, it either stripped the splines out of the torque limiting clutch (most likely), busted the center out of the torque limiting clutch, or stripped a good portion of the splines off the input shaft in the transmission (most costly). I'd say very small chance of it being the output from the transmission to the rear end. No real good ways to open things up and look shy of unbolting front from the back and rolling them apart...might be able to pull the hydraulic pump off the top left front corner of the bell housing...but I don't recall if you can see past the ring gear to see the clutch spin.

The shaft new is almost impossible to find, and I think requires a 2x split, ahead and behind the transmission. The clutch can be fixed by a single split ahead of the transmission. Will cost you probably no more than $1000-1200 for repair, most of that in labor to split the tractor. I have 2...put new clutches in both. The splines on the input shafts are worn about 1/2 way through, but due to cost, and I don't use them heavy, just put new clutches in them and may rebuild later if they go again.

3 point should still work, remote valve should work, but it won't move. Those normally have a bit of a while of the fluid...you probably won't hear that at all if it's the clutch. No spin, no pressure, no fluid moving=transmission locked in park

The hydraulic pump drives from a gear on the rear of the camshaft, not the flywheel. Nothing to see by removing the pump except a gear fixed to the end of the camshaft.
If the drive problem were at the transmission output, it is unlikely that the driveline would lock up; it would surely freewheel. The problem is at the front of the transmission, and it is reacting normally by defaulting to Park in the absence of regulated circuit pressure & flow.
 
   / 1972 ford 4000 #17  
What are you doing over here, Jerry?

Welcome.

Hi Rick,
Thanks.
Funny but I joined this place some years ago but never got around to making any posts.
I would come over and read it once in a while but that was all.
Dunno why but i just decieded to post the other day (they were talking about a donated "school tractor") and i posted a couple of photos.
I guess I've got some catching up to do to get up there with you Ford gurus here :)
 
   / 1972 ford 4000 #18  
Howdy. i see the gangs all here.

PS, for the other posters.. the SOS is not a 'hydromatic' or any kind of automatic.. no torque converter.. on this model anyway.

it's a full powershift gear trans..

good luck to the OP

soundguy
 

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