OP
Hickory Creek
Bronze Member
Thanks Affordable.
Help With WorkTrak 404 29.4KW engine
- Thread starter Hickory Creek
- Start date
- Views: 9989
greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
- Messages
- 6,126
- Location
- Western Kentucky
- Tractor
- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
I have to take your word on later ones, but the the SL3105BT I just worked on (stamped "1998") I just worked on has them. And back on Feb 23rd, the OP identified his as a 1998. Plus there was early mention of a glow plug indicator on the instrument panel. Just going by what I read.
//greg//
Last edited:
McGeesEquip
Silver Member
Hickory,
Those tractors for many of them had no glow plugs. Some of the last ones we got in had a heat coil in the intake system, but that was it.
You do not need to be wasting time trying to get the year date on the tractor to get a manual because that would be a waste of money and the information in the manual does not give any electrical tech information worth anything and for most parts would not actually match the tractor.
Those tractors had a black electrical relay box that was either located "behind" the fuse box panel (not in the fuse box panel) on the side, or under the dash instrument cluster. This relay would click on every time the key was cut on. "It is not a glow plug relay. The relay was usually install on the bolts that held the fuse box panel to the dash covering, or it was on the bolts that held the dash cluster to the dash panel. There is 2 wire plugs that plugged into the black relay. I forgot the relay number.
don't waste your money on a new battery under 1000 cold cranking amps. It sounds like you will probably be needing another starter and if you get a battery under 1000 CC you will be buying another stater sooner. You will need to remove the dash cover bolts on the fuse box side to get behind the fuse box.
Those tractors for many of them had no glow plugs. Some of the last ones we got in had a heat coil in the intake system, but that was it.
You do not need to be wasting time trying to get the year date on the tractor to get a manual because that would be a waste of money and the information in the manual does not give any electrical tech information worth anything and for most parts would not actually match the tractor.
Those tractors had a black electrical relay box that was either located "behind" the fuse box panel (not in the fuse box panel) on the side, or under the dash instrument cluster. This relay would click on every time the key was cut on. "It is not a glow plug relay. The relay was usually install on the bolts that held the fuse box panel to the dash covering, or it was on the bolts that held the dash cluster to the dash panel. There is 2 wire plugs that plugged into the black relay. I forgot the relay number.
don't waste your money on a new battery under 1000 cold cranking amps. It sounds like you will probably be needing another starter and if you get a battery under 1000 CC you will be buying another stater sooner. You will need to remove the dash cover bolts on the fuse box side to get behind the fuse box.
OP
Hickory Creek
Bronze Member
I found compression release lever or where it should be.
,
I think this relay may be part of my no crank problem. It was hanging out just like you see it. Not sure what it is for. It does not tick on any key position switch.
, For those who have not read entire post, this is the engine.
Now, I am going to bleed the lines on this three cylilnder. Are there any special points I need to use or just follow lines downstream and back off nuts fitting, etc at each point until I get to the last injector? I want to get this thing running, as it has work to do. Shows 137 hours on hour meter. Can confirm no glow plugs or induction heater.
Would appreciate any good sequence of steps to start it. I have in mind to crank without compression and then while cranking, apply compression. I'm all ears for any help.
I think this relay may be part of my no crank problem. It was hanging out just like you see it. Not sure what it is for. It does not tick on any key position switch.
Would appreciate any good sequence of steps to start it. I have in mind to crank without compression and then while cranking, apply compression. I'm all ears for any help.
greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
- Messages
- 6,126
- Location
- Western Kentucky
- Tractor
- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
If the other end of that linkage goes to the back side of the valve cover, it is indeed the compression release.
Looks like three conductors, I'd say flasher relay
Bleed low pressure side first. Find rubber hose between filter and pump, loosen at pump end. Unscrew hand primer and pump until raw fuel comes out loosened hose. Tighten hose. Now bleed high pressure (steel) lines. Use line wrench to loosen hex collar where each line connects to its respective injector (top end of each line). Crank engine. Air bubbles will come out around each hex collar at first. Tighten each collar as bubbles turn to raw fuel. System is now primed and bled.
//greg//
Looks like three conductors, I'd say flasher relay
Bleed low pressure side first. Find rubber hose between filter and pump, loosen at pump end. Unscrew hand primer and pump until raw fuel comes out loosened hose. Tighten hose. Now bleed high pressure (steel) lines. Use line wrench to loosen hex collar where each line connects to its respective injector (top end of each line). Crank engine. Air bubbles will come out around each hex collar at first. Tighten each collar as bubbles turn to raw fuel. System is now primed and bled.
//greg//
Affordable
Advertiser, Platinum Member
The black electrical box looks like the starter relay, see if you can read any of the numbers on the side of it
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
" Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company
Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
" Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company
OP
Hickory Creek
Bronze Member
Greg and Affordable, Thanks. The linkage goes to the rear of valve cover and works something there. The relay connector is "L" shaped and has 2 prongs for each "L" part, as I remember.
Thanks for the bleed advice. Any advice on starting?
Thanks for the bleed advice. Any advice on starting?
greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
- Messages
- 6,126
- Location
- Western Kentucky
- Tractor
- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
The engine is direct injection, so starting pains should be somewhat alleviated despite no pre-heating. But consistent with your intentions, the compression release is important. Besides the obvious wear and tear saved on the battery and starter, it allows oil pressure to develop before actual combustion. I'd pull my compression release, key the starter, watch the oil pressure gauge. When I saw the needle start to rise, then I'd let go of the compression release.
//greg//
//greg//
OP
Hickory Creek
Bronze Member
Thanks Greg, I probably need a new starter, as noted in a previous post I said the engine turned over slower than I thought it should. From what I have been able to access from previous owner, they always started it under compression as they acquired it without decompress lever and did not know better.
To everyone who has helped, Thank you.
To everyone who has helped, Thank you.
Rich Waugh
Platinum Member
Fortunately, the compression release isn't a complicated mechanism. You should be able to pull the valve cover and determine easily what you need to fabricate in order to have a working compression release, if you can't order the missing parts from Tommy. As long as the components inside the valve cover are all there, the rest is just linkage and perhaps a return spring - not too tough to suss out what is needed to activate it.
