Optional Remote Hydraulic valves in Build My Kubota

[jim_wilson]

I was playing with the Build My Kubota configurator last night - comparing B3200 , B3300 , L3200 and L3800 - and I noticed that they all have the option of " remote hydraulic valves " but it's somewhat unclear what exactly the option is.

I am only familiar with the hydraulic options in passing. So I'm not sure if the remote hydraulic valves option includes the loader hydraulics - and one extra - or if this is over and above the loader hydraulics.

No matter which tractor I get - it would be configured with the FEL - and the BH77 backhoe.

As hydraulic add-ons to the tractor I would want to potentiall put on:

a grapple on the FEL
hydraulic thumb on the BH
remote top link for 3pt - or hydraulics for a dump trailer/ hydraulic operated box blade. drag etc.

What does the Kubota kit give you? Do they add a valve with an extra joystick somewhere on the tractor and plumb in a QD somewhere?

 

[Ductape]

A remote valve will be downstream from the loader valve. Either mounted to the ROPS or coming up through the right fender near your right hip (depending on the tractor). The hydraulic outlets will be at the rear of the tractor. Each remote operates one extra function (such as a top link, etc.). Some tractors are available with one, some two. Usually only two offered from the factory on a compact, but you can always put together your own kit and have virtually however many you like.

 

[jim_wilson]

thanks for the reply. When you say "downstream" you mean downstream from the main feed into the loader valve - correct? So the add-on valve will be secondary to the pressure required for the loader valve?

What I would really like to do is have tractor setup so that I could put a grapple on the bucket - have that controlled by foot pedal - and then also have a separate hydraulic feed on the front of the tractor itself. In the back - have a hydraulic feed so that I can setup a hydraulic thumb for the backhoe - and then also have a feed on the rear for a hydraulic top link.

 

[kwisecup]

the optional outlets are seperate from the fel or backhoe hydraulics

 

[IslandTractor]

Simplest and by far cheapest way to control a grapple is to hook it up to the rear remotes and control it with a lever next to the FEL joystick. Just like 4 on the floor. Piece of cake to install and use. Setting up a foot pedal would be costly and not much if any advantage. Diverter valves are also rather pricy and IMO no better. I've had both to control my grapple and prefer the rear remote so long as the controller is placed conveniently for your right hand to drop to just like a floor mounted shifter in a car.

 

[jim_wilson]

the optional outlets are seperate from the fel or backhoe hydraulics

Forgive the newbie like questions - I'm still pretty unfamiliar with the layout of the hydraulics on the B tractors, and hydraulics in general for that matter.

So does the B3200 and B3300 have hydraulic ports - that remote valves can be plumbed into - and these ports are separate from any hydraulics on the tractor for the backhoe and the FEL?

And the stuff listed on the Build My Kubota options selections are just valves (joystick or whatever) - hooked up to those ports?

 

[jim_wilson]

Simplest and by far cheapest way to control a grapple is to hook it up to the rear remotes and control it with a lever next to the FEL joystick. Just like 4 on the floor. Piece of cake to install and use. Setting up a foot pedal would be costly and not much if any advantage. Diverter valves are also rather pricy and IMO no better. I've had both to control my grapple and prefer the rear remote so long as the controller is placed conveniently for your right hand to drop to just like a floor mounted shifter in a car.

On the B3200 and B3300 they put the loader joystick right next to the seat. I was thinking foot pedal because that would put my right hand on the FEL joystick, left hand on the steering wheel, right foot on the Hydro pedal - and left foot on the grapple pedal. I will be using a rock grapple to build stone walls - and I was thinking I would need the flexibility to operate all things independently.

 

[magicheater]

Simplest and by far cheapest way to control a grapple is to hook it up to the rear remotes and control it with a lever next to the FEL joystick. Just like 4 on the floor. Piece of cake to install and use. Setting up a foot pedal would be costly and not much if any advantage. Diverter valves are also rather pricy and IMO no better. I've had both to control my grapple and prefer the rear remote so long as the controller is placed conveniently for your right hand to drop to just like a floor mounted shifter in a car.

I have a similar set up and am converting to a foot pedal for the grapple and a second function off a solenoid valve. Grapple action is an HST/Loader function/steering/and grapple function combination.

On the B3200 and B3300 they put the loader joystick right next to the seat. I was thinking foot pedal because that would put my right hand on the FEL joystick, left hand on the steering wheel, right foot on the Hydro pedal - and left foot on the grapple pedal. I will be using a rock grapple to build stone walls - and I was thinking I would need the flexibility to operate all things independently.

My thinking exactly.

 

[IslandTractor]

On the B3200 and B3300 they put the loader joystick right next to the seat. I was thinking foot pedal because that would put my right hand on the FEL joystick, left hand on the steering wheel, right foot on the Hydro pedal - and left foot on the grapple pedal. I will be using a rock grapple to build stone walls - and I was thinking I would need the flexibility to operate all things independently.

You are thinking like we all do before actually using a grapple. It seems necessary and logical to have a diverter valve or as you are planning a pedal that can be operated by an otherwise unengaged foot. However, think about driving a manual transmission car with a floor shifter. The first few times you use it you might need to look to see where to put your hand but after that it becomes automatic and muscle memory takes over. You almost never need to raise/lower or dump/curl the bucket at the same time that you operate the grapple. That may not be intuitive but it's true. The grapple simply clamps the load, it has nothing to do with positioning the bucket. If the extra function was to rotate the bucket on a pivot then I would agree you would want to be able to do that independently and simultaneously with the other bucket functions but grappling is not like that. All a grapple does is prevent a load from falling out. Simple. It has nothing much to do with getting the load into the bucket or in positioning the bucket so it can be done sequentially rather than simultaneously.

You will find that a foot controller will need to be sourced and installed ($$$ and time) while to install grapple control with rear remotes requires just ordering some hose (3/8" about 17feet or so (measure with a garden hose and leave extra so bend radii are gentle) with SAE fittings and then quick connect couplings (Pioneer style, two males for the remotes and a male and female for the grapple end). That plus a handful of zipties is all it takes. You can later get fancy with permanent hose clamps if you like and a nice termination plate on the loader torque tube but you can work for years (I did) with just zipties. Using this simple tried and true approach you can literally get going to work in about 30 minutes after bringing the hoses and fittings home once you have installed the grapple on the bucket. Budget is cost of rear remotes (?400 each from Kubota, at least one set needed but if you want to run a backhoe and grapple at the same time (very effective combo) you'd need two sets ideally but it can be done with one set of rear remotes for the grapple and power beyond set up for the BH). Other cost is about $100 plus change and shipping for the hose, end fittings and quick couplers. Compare that $100 to what it would cost in time and effort for either yourself or a dealer to work out how to put in a foot controller. I'm guessing a couple of days for research, parts and installation for you and maybe a full afternoon for a dealer mechanic at $70/hr or more. The foot valve is not cheap either and you would need to cut into your operator station floor and rubber covering.

 

[jim_wilson]

You are thinking like we all do before actually using a grapple. It seems necessary and logical to have a diverter valve or as you are planning a pedal that can be operated by an otherwise unengaged foot. However, think about driving a manual transmission car with a floor shifter. The first few times you use it you might need to look to see where to put your hand but after that it becomes automatic and muscle memory takes over. You almost never need to raise/lower or dump/curl the bucket at the same time that you operate the grapple. That may not be intuitive but it's true. The grapple simply clamps the load, it has nothing to do with positioning the bucket. If the extra function was to rotate the bucket on a pivot then I would agree you would want to be able to do that independently and simultaneously with the other bucket functions but grappling is not like that. All a grapple does is prevent a load from falling out. Simple. It has nothing much to do with getting the load into the bucket or in positioning the bucket so it can be done sequentially rather than simultaneously.

You will find that a foot controller will need to be sourced and installed ($$$ and time) while to install grapple control with rear remotes requires just ordering some hose (3/8" about 17feet or so (measure with a garden hose and leave extra so bend radii are gentle) with SAE fittings and then quick connect couplings (Pioneer style, two males for the remotes and a male and female for the grapple end). That plus a handful of zipties is all it takes. You can later get fancy with permanent hose clamps if you like and a nice termination plate on the loader torque tube but you can work for years (I did) with just zipties. Using this simple tried and true approach you can literally get going to work in about 30 minutes after bringing the hoses and fittings home once you have installed the grapple on the bucket. Budget is cost of rear remotes (?400 each from Kubota, at least one set needed but if you want to run a backhoe and grapple at the same time (very effective combo) you'd need two sets ideally but it can be done with one set of rear remotes for the grapple and power beyond set up for the BH). Other cost is about $100 plus change and shipping for the hose, end fittings and quick couplers. Compare that $100 to what it would cost in time and effort for either yourself or a dealer to work out how to put in a foot controller. I'm guessing a couple of days for research, parts and installation for you and maybe a full afternoon for a dealer mechanic at $70/hr or more. The foot valve is not cheap either and you would need to cut into your operator station floor and rubber covering.

Initially I wasn't intending on getting a grapple for the bucket - but rather a "rock grapple" like the one in this slideshow:

Slideshow

That maybe doesn't change what you're saying though - that I could control it without the foot pedal just as effectively. I was thinking that using the rock grapple - which is no bucket and just two jaws - would benefit from being able to control it at the same time the FEL was being manipulated . This is why i was thinking foot control.


Right now I still haven't really decided if I am going with a B3200/B3300 - or an L3200/3800. The L's have the loader control mounted next to the steering wheel on the loader - the B's have the loader valves mounted under the seat I guess - with joystick that comes up right next to the seat. If I got a B - I supposed I could just mount the valve for the grapple on the fender right next to the loader joystick so it would be easy enough to move my hand from loader joystick - to the grapple control.