L3800 Wheel weights

[Notforhire]

Anyone using wheel weights on their L3800? Besides, loading the tires, I was wondering if wheel weights would be worthwhile.
They are a little pricey. Are there any aftermarket mfg. or would this be a Kubota only item?
I intend on building a 3PH counter weight, for most loader work.

Thanks, Bill

 

[kuboman]

Anyone using wheel weights on their L3800? Besides, loading the tires, I was wondering if wheel weights would be worthwhile.
They are a little pricey. Are there any aftermarket mfg. or would this be a Kubota only item?
I intend on building a 3PH counter weight, for most loader work.

Thanks, Bill

Depending on how you plan on using your tractor, weights may not be necessary if you use adequate 3pt ballast. I find wheel weights are a benefit when I don't want the 3pt occupied. These tractors are quite light on the back end.

 

[LD1]

Wheel weights are going to be about the most expensive form of ballast. Around $1 per pound. AND...they acutally provide the least effectiveness pound for pound vs a counterweight. (this is assuming you are wanting more weight due to FEL use).

Basically, 500lbs on the 3PH does MUCH more than 500lbs of wheel weights. Since 500lbs on the 3PH is BEHIND the axle, it is actually a counterweight, and takes weight OFF the front axle. Whereas 500lbs on the rear axle dont do that.

And without sufficent counterweight, you put a huge strain on the front axle. For example, without wheel weights, you can be able to lift the rear tires into the air. That puts the ENTIRE weight of the tractor, loader, AND load in the loader ALL on the front axle.

Now lets say you add 300lbs of weight to each tire, and you can lift more in the FEL, but the loader still has enough force to lift the rear tires, now you just added another 600lbs to the front axle PLUS the addition load the FEL can lift as a result.

Personally, I would opt for a heavy implement or make a counter weight with a barrel and concrete. MUCH more effective, and MUCH cheaper.

Ofcourse, if you are asking because of things like plowing or disking, just ignore all of that.

 

[Bluegill2]

Wheel weights are going to be about the most expensive form of ballast. Around $1 per pound. AND...they acutally provide the least effectiveness pound for pound vs a counterweight. (this is assuming you are wanting more weight due to FEL use).

Basically, 500lbs on the 3PH does MUCH more than 500lbs of wheel weights. Since 500lbs on the 3PH is BEHIND the axle, it is actually a counterweight, and takes weight OFF the front axle. Whereas 500lbs on the rear axle dont do that.

And without sufficent counterweight, you put a huge strain on the front axle. For example, without wheel weights, you can be able to lift the rear tires into the air. That puts the ENTIRE weight of the tractor, loader, AND load in the loader ALL on the front axle.

Now lets say you add 300lbs of weight to each tire, and you can lift more in the FEL, but the loader still has enough force to lift the rear tires, now you just added another 600lbs to the front axle PLUS the addition load the FEL can lift as a result.

Personally, I would opt for a heavy implement or make a counter weight with a barrel and concrete. MUCH more effective, and MUCH cheaper.

Ofcourse, if you are asking because of things like plowing or disking, just ignore all of that.

Could not have said it better myself!

I learn this the hard way with our old 3750. Had to rebuild the front end, because of too many years of loader work with no rear ballast...Was a very costly lesson!

 

[Notforhire]

Thank you all for the advise. Your comments make alot of sense.:drink:

"I find wheel weights are a benefit when I don't want the 3pt occupied. These tractors are quite light on the back end."

It sounds like whl. wts. would be good for ground engagement or light lifts w/the FEL.
For any heavy lifting I WILL use a 3PH counter weight. A friend has one he will give me. He removed his FEL and no longer needs it.
:thumbsup:
Best, Bill

 

[MHarryE]

I have wheel weights on my L5740 and love them. Nothing sticking out in back. I can use my 3 point for anything. No fluid to worry about if I get a puncture. I can remove them to transport if necessary since fully loaded my tractor is beyond the weight capacity of my tractor. But they don't remove weight from the front tires when using a loader. You need weight that extends beyond the rear wheel centerline to do that so wheel weights and tire ballast only serve to keep the rear end down - they don't transfer weight from the fronts. If I am doing major loader work I use my grading scraper for additional counterweight but beware of anything behind if I forget about it.

 

[Bluegill2]

Thank you all for the advise. Your comments make alot of sense.:drink:

"I find wheel weights are a benefit when I don't want the 3pt occupied. These tractors are quite light on the back end."

It sounds like whl. wts. would be good for ground engagement or light lifts w/the FEL.
For any heavy lifting I WILL use a 3PH counter weight. A friend has one he will give me. He removed his FEL and no longer needs it.
:thumbsup:
Best, Bill

Bill, I'm likely going to add rear wheel weights to mine. Can't hurt anything and it just puts more weight on the ground. :thumbsup:

 

[LD1]

Can't hurt anything and it just puts more weight on the ground. :thumbsup:

AHHH, but it CAN hurt things if you get into heavy FEL work and think the wheel weights are sufficient. You STILL need sufficient COUNTERWEIGHT on the 3PH.:thumbsup:

 

[Bluegill2]

AHHH, but it CAN hurt things if you get into heavy FEL work and think the wheel weights are sufficient. You STILL need sufficient COUNTERWEIGHT on the 3PH.:thumbsup:

Very true, and I should have added to my post. I would not do any heavy loader work without counterweight on the 3PH.

Like I've said before, I learned that lesson the hard way.

:thumbsup:

 

[Bluegill2]

AHHH, but it CAN hurt things if you get into heavy FEL work and think the wheel weights are sufficient. You STILL need sufficient COUNTERWEIGHT on the 3PH.:thumbsup:

It's also kind of like adding front weights to make a tractor dig better. Something is probably goin to break.
.

 

[Notforhire]

AHHH, but it CAN hurt things if you get into heavy FEL work and think the wheel weights are sufficient. You STILL need sufficient COUNTERWEIGHT on the 3PH.:thumbsup:

"sufficient COUNTERWEIGHT" I think this is key. I think it's always a judgement call. If I need to move a bucket load of feathers from my chicken coop, I don't think a #500 counterweight is necessary. Now, if I need to move dirt, rocks or other heavy stuff, I think it best to put on the counterweight.
I always try not to overload the equipment, the cost is too high.:thumbsup:

 

[Notforhire]

Bill, I'm likely going to add rear wheel weights to mine. :thumbsup:

Are you going to get them from Kubota? Are there any aftermarket Mfg.?


Bill

 

[Bluegill2]

Are you going to get them from Kubota? Are there any aftermarket Mfg.?


Bill

I have an old pair here I'll try first, had them on an old 2wd Kubota. Not sure if they'll fit and I believe they weight #100 each. Would like heavier, I think?

What size weights does Kubota offer for the L3800?

 

[tractorshopper]

I have my rear wheels filled and when doing heavy loader work, put my 6' box blade on (550lbs). This works very well for me and I have moved some heavy loads with loader already. Dealer told me not to waste money on weights or ballast box, when you can put that toward the box blade and have a useful implement. Man do I love this machine.

 

[Notforhire]

Dealer told me not to waste money on weights or ballast box, when you can put that toward the box blade and have a useful implement.

Very good point!!

I don't know what Kubota offers for wheel weights for the L3800, or the price for that matter. I do think they are probably rather expensive for what they are.

One of the downsides to any 3PH attachment is attaching it to the tractor. Maybe if I spent my wheel weight money on some sort of quick hitch it would make it easier to attach a counterweight, and I would be more likely to do so for marginal lifts.:thumbsup:

Bill

 

[tractorshopper]

Bill,

I also bought the Pats system when I bought the tractor. I've borrowed and used other tractors before and helped friends do stuff and hated changing implements out and usually was a two man job. With the Pats system, it's very easy for me to change between my bush hog, box blade, and tiller. In fact, the only pain about switching implements that I find is hooking the PTO shafts up since I have to hold in place, pull on the QD and rotate a little to line up the grooves. I still do this myself in a couple minutes flat. Hooking the box blade up is as easy as it gets.

There are threads on Pats and other quick hitch set ups. Haven't used others, so can't comment, but I do love the Pats. Only thing is you more than likely will need a longer toplink also. I did, but actually like it a lot better than the one that came on the tractor anyway and it was only another $30.