Stihl Chain Sharpening How To Video

[LD1]

Get one of these Bailey's - Granberg File-N-Joint Precision Filing Guide

It does have a video to watch too.

Be sure to get a box of the right sized file.

Usually 7/32 for 3/8 chain, 3/16 for 3/8 lo-profile chain, and 5/32 for .325 chain (I think). All my saws take the big chain and 3/8 file.

 

[Artisan]

LD1 I am trying to learn much, chainsaws is one of them. I have a 009
saw, picco bar. Is that 5/32? I need to make a kit for each saw and
label it so everytime I need it I don't have to go re-learn it

 

[Artisan]

Here is the Video LD1 Speaks of;

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMJ8zYJUfIY"]Granberg Chainsaw Filing Guide from baileysonline.com - YouTube[/ame]

 

[Artisan]

I found the filing kit...

5605-007-1027

 

[pacerron]

If it is a granberg it is not electric.

There are only two kinds of electric sharpeners I know of. One is the dremel attachment. Those are okay. The other is the actual grinders that you have to take the chain off for. I dont like those.

The granberg is a jig that just holds the file angles for you and clamps on the bar. Like the one he referenced in the video somewhere around the 3:00 mark

What's wrong with taking the chain off? Gives you a chance to clean the
buildup out of the bar slot, check the bar for uneven wear on the sides, remove any burring, check the sprocket, make sure the oiler is not clogged, and remove crap that you can't get at any other way. If you soak the chain in a little oven cleaner or spray it on and wash it off your file or grind wheel will last much longer and do a better job of sharpening. The chain rivets will be cleaner and more flexible.
I'm not saying do this in the field. In the field a file and a couple spare sharp chains are the way to go.
I didn't watch the video, since the remarks said it was rather basic. The still frame did show the bar clamped in a vice so it must have been in a shop, not in the field. If the video covered all the things I mentioned above you got a double dose.

 

[Artisan]

One thing I noticed that that video covered and no one else ever does
is checking the height of the rake and lowering it as the chain changes.
He even says in his comments "this seperates the men from the boys"
or something very close if I remember right...

 

[dex3361]

LD1 I am trying to learn much, chainsaws is one of them. I have a 009
saw, picco bar. Is that 5/32? I need to make a kit for each saw and
label it so everytime I need it I don't have to go re-learn it

I have a Stihl 009. It has been a reliable saw but I have to watch that I dont idle it to long. It pumps oil out even at idle. I always fill the oil tank all the way up but the gas I only fill about 3/4. Just a little insurance to prevent burning the bar up.:thumbsup:

 

[LD1]

What's wrong with taking the chain off? Gives you a chance to clean the
buildup out of the bar slot, check the bar for uneven wear on the sides, remove any burring, check the sprocket, make sure the oiler is not clogged, and remove crap that you can't get at any other way. If you soak the chain in a little oven cleaner or spray it on and wash it off your file or grind wheel will last much longer and do a better job of sharpening. The chain rivets will be cleaner and more flexible.
I'm not saying do this in the field. In the field a file and a couple spare sharp chains are the way to go.
I didn't watch the video, since the remarks said it was rather basic. The still frame did show the bar clamped in a vice so it must have been in a shop, not in the field. If the video covered all the things I mentioned above you got a double dose.

Nothing wrong with taking the chain off. It just takes longer IMO. Plus the grinders remove TOO much material IMO and shorten the chain life.

One thing I noticed that that video covered and no one else ever does
is checking the height of the rake and lowering it as the chain changes.
He even says in his comments "this seperates the men from the boys"
or something very close if I remember right...

I never mention rakers because I dont like .025 raker depths. I like them more like .050-.070. A chain with .025 rakers EVEN new seems dull to me. I take a BRAND NEW chain and take at LEAST 3-4 file strokes across the rakers before even using.

 

[pacerron]

Nothing wrong with taking the chain off. It just takes longer IMO. Plus the grinders remove TOO much material IMO and shorten the chain life.
I never mention rakers because I dont like .025 raker depths. I like them more like .050-.070. A chain with .025 rakers EVEN new seems dull to me. I take a BRAND NEW chain and take at LEAST 3-4 file strokes across the rakers before even using.

If you grind them yourself you don't have to remove too much. The important thing is grinding so all teeth are the same length. Shorter teeth are not as high at the cutting edge so they do nothing for the cut. It is very hard to keep the teeth the same length with a file unless you are a pro lumberjack with years of experience.
The height of the tooth compared to the raker height is very important.
You can have perfectly sharpened and angled teeth but if the rakers are too high you'll get fine chips and not much cut as if the chain is dull. Folks then apply more pressure straining their wrists and backs plus overheating the chain causing it to burn and stretch.
Removing too much raker height will give you a faster cut the same as changing the angle of the teeth but extremes in either case wipe out the chain fast and wear out the chainsaw much faster. If your in a competition cut match go for it.
If your a home/farm user stay within the engineered spec range or you will waste more time sharpening and spend more money replacing than necessary.

As far as too much oil use, running out of oil before gas, some saws have a screw so you can adjust the flow of oil a bit. The viscosity of the bar oil has a lot to do with it too. Some folks mix their own, some folks buy cheap stuff that is not gummy enough. Some ( most ) chainsaws leak some oil. The day after you use the saw if there is a puddle of oil under it you have a problem.

 

[cqaigy2]

I never mention rakers because I dont like .025 raker depths. I like them more like .050-.070. A chain with .025 rakers EVEN new seems dull to me. I take a BRAND NEW chain and take at LEAST 3-4 file strokes across the rakers before even using.

You also need a saw with enough power to pull the extra drag on the chain, Which i'd expect yours does. Of course if you go to far, it will probably mess with the motion of the cutter so much as to only add drag and cut less efficiently. Not an expert cutter.