Stihl Chain Sharpening How To Video

[LD1]

The important thing is grinding so all teeth are the same length.

That is not so important IMO. And that is exactally why I like had filing instead of using a grinder or taking the chain somewhere that uses a grinder. Because it seems to be SOP that you find the WORST cutter, and take them ALL back to that length. That just wastes material.

I have had chains before that had about TWICE the cutter length on one side as the other. Still cut straight as an arrow. I file ONLY what is required for EACH individual tooth. And set the rakers accordingly to THAT tooth, and the chain will cut JUST fine regardless of how "long" each tooth is.

You also need a saw with enough power to pull the extra drag on the chain, Which i'd expect yours does. Of course if you go to far, it will probably mess with the motion of the cutter so much as to only add drag and cut less efficiently. Not an expert cutter.

Yes, pleanty of power to pull a full comp chain with .050-.060 rakers with my saws.

I dont go that far on my 115i trim saw though. Because the lower rakers do like to grab more on the smaller limbs. But boy when you get into big wood....they really scream.:thumbsup:

 

[LastSTRAW]

Thanks for the great video. My new saw is due for a little sharpening and it should go better with the demo.

 

[pacerron]

That is not so important IMO. And that is exactally why I like had filing instead of using a grinder or taking the chain somewhere that uses a grinder. Because it seems to be SOP that you find the WORST cutter, and take them ALL back to that length. That just wastes material.

I have had chains before that had about TWICE the cutter length on one side as the other. Still cut straight as an arrow. I file ONLY what is required for EACH individual tooth. And set the rakers accordingly to THAT tooth, and the chain will cut JUST fine regardless of how "long" each tooth is.
:

Are you using "Chipper", "Semi Chisel" or "Full Chisel" chain?
What do you mean by, "I file ONLY what is required for EACH individual tooth"?

Many years ago I was doing so much chainsawing that I purchased my own Professional Chain Saw Sharpener/grinder. I purchased chain by the spool and have a bench mounted riveter tool to make up my own chains. Best thing I ever did as far as having good quality chain and being able to sharpen it the way I wanted it for efficient cuts. The real best thing was getting my land cleared the way I want it and retiring the chainsaws to an occaassional fallen tree or cord of wood for my emergency back up wood furnace.
No runs to town to get, as you indicate, most of the teeth ground away by 3 trips.
If you have a broken or chipped tooth you don't have to use that one as the gauge for grinding the others any more than you have to grind every nick out of your lawnmower blade before balancing it to cut grass. But most people that pay to have chainsaw blades and lawnmower blades sharpened would have a hissy fit if they got their blades back without a perfect edge on every tooth or on the blade. That's the reason the shops do it that way. They don't do it just to wear out their wheels faster.
If you get too many short teeth it is the same as them not being there and all the work and wear goes to the remaining teeth that are the highest, dulling them faster than if they had the help they are suppossed to have from the other guys on the chain.
Try your chain that has one side twice as long as the other on an 8"-12" log that is well supported at waist height but only hold the saw with your trigger hand while making the cut, but be careful and ready to grab the other handle if the saw kicks.
Post a picture of the cut end and a picture of your chain that has one side twice the length of the other. We trust you not to cheat
If you get a straight cut I'll shut up and go to another subject in the forum.
I am only offering what I know to be true from my experience and I'm sure you are too.:thumbsup:
No sense in two Ohio boys arguing over their own opinions

 

[LD1]

Are you using "Chipper", "Semi Chisel" or "Full Chisel" chain?
What do you mean by, "I file ONLY what is required for EACH individual tooth"?

Mostly full chisel. I have ONE saw with semi-chisel. The small one. 115I...~50cc's.

When hand filing, using the granberg, I DONT file away all the way to the stop. (that makes each tooth the same). In fact I don't even set the stop. When sharpening, I just file enough off each tooth to clean it up. Some teeth, thats only 1-2 strokes of the file. Others, that may be 5-6 strokes.

Occasionally, when working a fence-row finding a buried piece of wire is un-avoidable. Sometimes it only hits ONE side of the cutters. THOSE require MUCH more sharpening than the other side. That is what I was talking about when I said I have had chains that had twice the cutter length on one side.
Because I DONT grind them all down to as short as the bad side. I ONLY file enough to make THAT tooth sharp. No more, No less.

Cutting a stump flush is another time where the cutters on one side can get WAY worse than the other. Since only one side is in the dirt.

 

[pacerron]

Mostly full chisel. I have ONE saw with semi-chisel. The small one. 115I...~50cc's.

When hand filing, using the granberg, I DONT file away all the way to the stop. (that makes each tooth the same). In fact I don't even set the stop. When sharpening, I just file enough off each tooth to clean it up. Some teeth, thats only 1-2 strokes of the file. Others, that may be 5-6 strokes.

Occasionally, when working a fence-row finding a buried piece of wire is un-avoidable. Sometimes it only hits ONE side of the cutters. THOSE require MUCH more sharpening than the other side. That is what I was talking about when I said I have had chains that had twice the cutter length on one side.
Because I DONT grind them all down to as short as the bad side. I ONLY file enough to make THAT tooth sharp. No more, No less.

Cutting a stump flush is another time where the cutters on one side can get WAY worse than the other. Since only one side is in the dirt.

Sounds like you have it figured out. Are any of the Dolmer ported chain saw videos on U-Tube yours?
I like to cut trees leaving as high a stump as possible. Then go back and dig around them a little with the backhoe and push them over or pull out with a chain. Smaller trees up to a foot or so in diameter I just push over in the spring when the ground is wet and haul them off complete with root.
Honey Locust is another matter. The wood is beautiful but the thorns get their revenge in tractor tires. I even ran one through a leather soled work boot into my foot one time.
Have fun but wear ear plugs. I have tinnitus and have to wear hearing aids all because of loud noises in the past.

 

[Artisan]

Wow! Here is a machine for JUST trimming depth gauges!

Made by "Silvey".

 

[cqaigy2]

Mostly full chisel. I have ONE saw with semi-chisel. The small one. 115I...~50cc's.

When hand filing, using the granberg, I DONT file away all the way to the stop. (that makes each tooth the same). In fact I don't even set the stop. When sharpening, I just file enough off each tooth to clean it up. Some teeth, thats only 1-2 strokes of the file. Others, that may be 5-6 strokes.

Occasionally, when working a fence-row finding a buried piece of wire is un-avoidable. Sometimes it only hits ONE side of the cutters. THOSE require MUCH more sharpening than the other side. That is what I was talking about when I said I have had chains that had twice the cutter length on one side.
Because I DONT grind them all down to as short as the bad side. I ONLY file enough to make THAT tooth sharp. No more, No less.

Cutting a stump flush is another time where the cutters on one side can get WAY worse than the other. Since only one side is in the dirt.

I don't run chisel but this is pretty much how i treat my chain. Sharpen each one so it's sharp, adjust the dept gauge as needed.

 

[LD1]

Sounds like you have it figured out. Are any of the Dolmer ported chain saw videos on U-Tube yours?
I like to cut trees leaving as high a stump as possible. Then go back and dig around them a little with the backhoe and push them over or pull out with a chain. Smaller trees up to a foot or so in diameter I just push over in the spring when the ground is wet and haul them off complete with root.
Honey Locust is another matter. The wood is beautiful but the thorns get their revenge in tractor tires. I even ran one through a leather soled work boot into my foot one time.
Have fun but wear ear plugs. I have tinnitus and have to wear hearing aids all because of loud noises in the past.

Nope, none of the videos are mine.

We normally dont like to flush cut stumps cause its hard on chains, but ocassionally when dealling with a smaller tree, and in a yard, flush cut is the best option.

 

[Coginchaug]

Saved that to watch the other day and just got around to it tonite, excellent video