Open Center valve

[J_J]

Does your BH use two or three hoses?

Does your BH valve have a PB port?

If you have two ports, you can just plug the BH into the remote QD's.

If your BH have three hoses, run the tank port to tank.

Bungee the remote spool valve on for the BH.

You can vary the engine rpm for the hyd action you want from fast to slow.

If you want some of the cyl slow on the BH, you can use restrictors in that particular circuit.

 

[a05883]

Does your BH use two or three hoses?

Does your BH valve have a PB port?

If you have two ports, you can just plug the BH into the remote QD's.

If your BH have three hoses, run the tank port to tank.

Bungee the remote spool valve on for the BH.

You can vary the engine rpm for the hyd action you want from fast to slow.

If you want some of the cyl slow on the BH, you can use restrictors in that particular circuit.

I just checked my manual and it says my rear remote valve is an "open center series type. (Full flow detent in section one on both the A and B coupler)"
The backhoe has two hoses. So if I understand you correctly I could hook up the 2 hoses to the QD's and place the valve in detent.
I won't have to worry about the speed of the hoe as it has a valve on it to control its speed.
Thanks for your responses!

 

[N8ghz]

Depending on what GPM your tractor's rear hydraulics are...the speed control on the hoe isn't going to make the hoe any faster than whatever GPM the tractor makes...you can slow it down though...but that's all.

 

[J_J]

Just make sure you have pressure going into the IN port of the BH valve.

It will depend on the QD that you plug in as to which way the lever should detent .

Usually the BH will operate at the volume/GPM that the hyd pump is putting out.

What do you have on the BH valve to dial down the volume of the tractor hyd pump volume?

 

[pacerron]

I just checked my manual and it says my rear remote valve is an "open center series type. (Full flow detent in section one on both the A and B coupler)"
The backhoe has two hoses. So if I understand you correctly I could hook up the 2 hoses to the QD's and place the valve in detent.
I won't have to worry about the speed of the hoe as it has a valve on it to control its speed.
Thanks for your responses!

If your talking about the detent when the valve handle is in other than center position, you will probably have to tie it back to keep it from popping back to center when you work your loader valves. If you are looking at the book it should describe the valve action very simply. If not you will learn very quickly when you hook it up the wrong.

 

[J_J]

I believe he is talking about a rear remote valve, which has detents on two of the spools.

All he should have to do is to plug in correctly and detent the valve and the BH should be ready to work.

At max engine, you will be providing about 8.2 GPM to the BH. If the BH operations are too fast, just reduce the engine rpm until you can work at your chosen pace.

Hydraulics:
Type: -unknown-
Capacity: -unknown-
Pressure: -unknown-
Valves: 1 or 2
Valve flow: 8.2 gpm [31.0 lpm]
Total flow: 12.7 gpm [48.1 lpm]
Steering flow: 4.5 gpm [17.0 lpm]

 

[a05883]

JJ you are correct. I am talking about the rear remote valve.
Thanks for your patience,you've have answered my questions.
My tractor is rated at 7.9 gpm and the backhoe requires 5-7 gpm. the valve on the backhoe is a restrictor valve I think. I haven't actually received the backhoe yet. It should be here in a week or two. I'm just trying to gain information ahead of time.

 

[J_J]

On my BH, the valve itself does not have restrictors, but several of the hyd circuits in the valve have restrictors. You can vary the size to suit your purpose.

 

[pacerron]

I believe he is talking about a rear remote valve, which has detents on two of the spools.

All he should have to do is to plug in correctly and detent the valve and the BH should be ready to work.

At max engine, you will be providing about 8.2 GPM to the BH. If the BH operations are too fast, just reduce the engine rpm until you can work at your chosen pace.

Hydraulics:
Type: -unknown-
Capacity: -unknown-
Pressure: -unknown-
Valves: 1 or 2
Valve flow: 8.2 gpm [31.0 lpm]
Total flow: 12.7 gpm [48.1 lpm]
Steering flow: 4.5 gpm [17.0 lpm]

JJ
I always defer to your knowledge of hydraulics. Your the best!
I probably didn't quite understand his question. My old 3910 Ford has an open center remote valve lever right below the seat on the rear end casting that is hosed to two quick release remotes on the back. Normally my FEL is hooked to them and I need to bungy the lever to the rear position to keep it from popping back to center open when I maximize the lift arms or the bucket curl or close. It could be held forward by a bungy if I reversed the hoses to the FEL but that would be in the way. Same goes for the bale extractor door. I don't bungy it and when it is closed the valve is in center neutral position.
I plug the hoses in so when I pull the lever back the door raises. When the door gets to maximum height if I were to continue to hold the valve handle back the pump would be trying to raise the door higher than possible and groan a bit in defiance of the pressure. If I let go at that point the valve handle and valve would pop back to the center neutral but the baler door remains at maximum open. When I pull the lever forward the door closes but would stop and remain at any position if I center the valve before complete door closer. If I hold the lever forward after the door is completely closed then the pump groans to remind me to wake up. So the detents I was referring to are the ones in the forward and rear position of the handle. They automatically kick back to neutral at the end of the cyclinder strokes unless tied or held open. The detents can be removed but I have used the tractor this way for 20 years with no problems.
I would think hooking a two hose back hoe to a center open valve would work the same way as I described for my FEL.

 

[SSdoxie]

JJ
I always defer to your knowledge of hydraulics. Your the best!
I probably didn't quite understand his question. My old 3910 Ford has an open center remote valve lever right below the seat on the rear end casting that is hosed to two quick release remotes on the back. Normally my FEL is hooked to them and I need to bungy the lever to the rear position to keep it from popping back to center open when I maximize the lift arms or the bucket curl or close. It could be held forward by a bungy if I reversed the hoses to the FEL but that would be in the way. Same goes for the bale extractor door. I don't bungy it and when it is closed the valve is in center neutral position.
I plug the hoses in so when I pull the lever back the door raises. When the door gets to maximum height if I were to continue to hold the valve handle back the pump would be trying to raise the door higher than possible and groan a bit in defiance of the pressure. If I let go at that point the valve handle and valve would pop back to the center neutral but the baler door remains at maximum open. When I pull the lever forward the door closes but would stop and remain at any position if I center the valve before complete door closer. If I hold the lever forward after the door is completely closed then the pump groans to remind me to wake up. So the detents I was referring to are the ones in the forward and rear position of the handle. They automatically kick back to neutral at the end of the cyclinder strokes unless tied or held open. The detents can be removed but I have used the tractor this way for 20 years with no problems.
I would think hooking a two hose back hoe to a center open valve would work the same way as I described for my FEL.

What you have on your Ford is a detent with pressure return to neutral. This is used commonly on Ag tractors for raising & lower implements in field work. Example is pulling a wheel disc: When you come to end of the field just pull the lever into raise detent and put you hand back on throttle or steering wheel to start making your turn. The disc will raise until cylinder reaches end of its stroke & the lever will retrun to neutral, once you have turned around and starting back into the field push it into lowering detent and the cylinder will lower the disc to it's set depth then push the lever into neutral again. This removes the need to keep you hand on the lever to avoid hydraulics going over relief and overheating system while at the same time you have both hands to run throttle and steering.
I have used a IH 656 with this on it and ran a wood splitter by tying back the lever with a bungie cord, works fine if the cord is strong enough.