Top/side link: hydraulic or not?

[Coyote machine]

I need advice on whether to buy a hydraulic top and side link setup, or to skip it based on what it will do to improve my box blade capabilities for the price point. I already have two pairs of rear remotes setup on my DK-40. One pair is detented, the other isn't. One pair has hoses that run to my FEL to control my log grapple, the other runs my hoe.
My other question is: if I use both pairs of rear remotes to control the side and top link, what happens when I want to use the grapple and I disconnect, for instance, the side link to allow the grapple to work? Could I then still have manual control of the side link adjustment(s)?

Here is what I was told it would cost for the following items:

Your cylinders will be made with 2.5" dia bores and 1.5" dia rods.

A cat 1 top link with a 10" stroke having a working length of 20"-30"-----$210

A side link built to give you an equal amount of tilt to both sides. -----$275

2 hose kits (4 hoses) made with 3/8" hoses, 36" long, (each hose), with 1/2" male quick connect ends.
-------------------------------------------------------------$80

2 hydraulic flow restrictors. These slow the hydraulic flow down so that it is much easier to make adjustments with the hydraulic
links.------------------$20

UPS 5 day ground shipping costs.-------------------------------------------$70

Total of $655.
.......................

Additional options presented to me so far:


"First and most common option, a std diverter valve that you would plumb into one of your loader circuits (usually the curl function) and have a button on your loader control lever for activation is $360.
Then you would need to get a few hoses and QA's. When done getting everything and paying s/h you are in the $550-$650 arena."

"Second option, ...a diverter valve that plugs into one of your existing pairs of remotes. This takes one pair and makes it into 2 pair. This comes with everything ready to use. It has a switch to activate whichever remote you want to use. You would then have to run hoses up to the front of the loader from the rear of your tractor for your grapple. {NOTE: I ALREADY HAVE hoses running to the front for my grapple off one pair of rear remotes. So isn't the preceding statement mute? }
You would use your rear remote control lever to operate the grapple. (Agreed).
This is going to be in the $600 arena.

The preferred method of operation is to have the control button-switch on the loader control lever and use the hydraulics of the loader. But many guys do use their rear remote for their grapple; most of them do not have top and tilt hydraulics however, and use the rear remote because it is there and they don't want to purchase the diverter for the front."

Could someone please dicifer what the above "first & second options" mean?
What advantages does it give me, if any, for another $600?!


TIA for any thoughts guys. :thumbsup:

 

[SSdoxie]

The way I read it is:
Diverter valve option #1 is put electric valve connected to the bucket curl function, then push the button (energize the valve) and use joystick for the grapple. Then use each rear remote for 1 of the hydraulic lnk funtions.

Option #2 is to put the diverter valve coming off 1 of the rear remote valves, probably the detent valve you are not using yet, then use it to switch between top link or side link function. Note: the explanation was to use the diverter for 1 of the hydraulic link functions and the grapple but personally it would seem easier to use if for both links and leave the grapple like it is.

Is hydraulic top n tilt link worth the $? I don't have the side link so no opinion, but I do have a top link and will never go back to manual.

 

[phiferpharm]

I'm going to add a valve set so I can run a top link and keep the other set on the Kioti for the grapple. At this point I can see the benefit of a top link, but not sure about needing the tilt function.

 

[Coyote machine]

The way I read it is:
Diverter valve option #1 is put electric valve connected to the bucket curl function, then push the button (energize the valve) and use joystick for the grapple. Then use each rear remote for 1 of the hydraulic lnk funtions.

Option #2 is to put the diverter valve coming off 1 of the rear remote valves, probably the detent valve you are not using yet, then use it to switch between top link or side link function. Note:

Is hydraulic top n tilt link worth the $? I don't have the side link so no opinion, but I do have a top link and will never go back to manual.

If I understand what you're saying; Option 1: having a diverter valve hooked to the curl of the loader circuit allows me to control the grapple without using one of my current rear remotes freeing both pairs up to be used for the top and side links?

Options 2: 'the explanation was to use the diverter for 1 of the hydraulic link functions and the grapple, but personally it would seem easier to use it for both links and leave the grapple like it is.' How would I leave the grapple as it is; since currently it is run off one of the rear remote valves?:confused2:

Note: I agree with you in concept- but I do not see how what you're saying would work....

Thx, CM

 

[SSdoxie]

If I understand what you're saying; Option 1: having a diverter valve hooked to the curl of the loader circuit allows me to control the grapple without using one of my current rear remotes freeing both pairs up to be used for the top and side links?
Yes. Put the selector button on the joystick so it is easy at hand. Both rear remotes would be available for the 3 point links. Only caution here is the bucket has "fast dump/anti-cavitation" when you move lever full right, if you moved the lever to this position when opening the grapple it would close on you. It would pressurize both ends of the cylinder and close the grapple. Bobcat has a kit for this and they include a new valve spool to eliminate the "fast dump" function.

Options 2: 'the explanation was to use the diverter for 1 of the hydraulic link functions and the grapple, but personally it would seem easier to use it for both links and leave the grapple like it is.' How would I leave the grapple as it is; since currently it is run off one of the rear remote valves?:confused2:
Example: Connect the selector valve to the detented remote, put the electric button on that lever, connect first set of outlets to the Top Link, and other set to the side link. In normal (without pressing the button) the top link would move with the lever. Push the button and move the lever and side link moves. You do have hydraulic flow out of this remote without going all the way into detent. I use my outside (right side) remote for grapple like you are and the detent remote for the top link.

Note: I agree with you in concept- but I do not see how what you're saying would work....

Thx, CM

Hope the answers in blue explain it better.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

If you will be doing much grading, you will want to have both cylinders. Just think of how often you SHOULD make an adjustment when you are grading. Stop, get off the tractor, manually adjust a link. Hope that you get the adjustment right. Get back on the tractor, go on your way, oops, have to stop and do it all again because you got it wrong the first time. So now you have it adjusted close enough and you grade for a couple of hundred feet, then stop, get off the tractor and readjust again. Get back on the tractor and go on your way. Wait, now that you have gone 50 feet, you need to stop and do it all over again. How many times and how much time is taken up by doing all of this? Well in real life most people just don't do the adjusting and figure that it is "good enough". But when you have the hydraulic cylinders, what takes minutes each time to manually adjust takes seconds with the touch of your hand and as you get better at it you will be able to make the adjustments on the fly. No more stopping the tractor and getting off and back on again.

As far as the diverter valve, by far the better way would be to use the diverter with the loader circuit IMO. Much more convenient to have those controls at the touch of your hand without taking your hand off of the joystick.

Just my :2cents:

 

[magicheater]

If you will be doing much grading, you will want to have both cylinders. Just think of how often you SHOULD make an adjustment when you are grading. Stop, get off the tractor, manually adjust a link. Hope that you get the adjustment right. Get back on the tractor, go on your way, oops, have to stop and do it all again because you got it wrong the first time. So now you have it adjusted close enough and you grade for a couple of hundred feet, then stop, get off the tractor and readjust again. Get back on the tractor and go on your way. Wait, now that you have gone 50 feet, you need to stop and do it all over again. How many times and how much time is taken up by doing all of this? Well in real life most people just don't do the adjusting and figure that it is "good enough". But when you have the hydraulic cylinders, what takes minutes each time to manually adjust takes seconds with the touch of your hand and as you get better at it you will be able to make the adjustments on the fly. No more stopping the tractor and getting off and back on again.

As far as the diverter valve, by far the better way would be to use the diverter with the loader circuit IMO. Much more convenient to have those controls at the touch of your hand without taking your hand off of the joystick.

Just my :2cents:

That is the beauty of investing in hydraulics.

 

[MrChris]

I recently added TnT to my tractor so I'm still learning how to use it. So far though I definitely agree the hydraulic top link makes hooking up my various attachments easier. It's also easier and saves time while using my attachments to make adjustments right from the tractor instead of getting on and off the seat. When I use my no till drill and bush hog I want a level grade and just adjust the top link. For using my rear scrape blade, landscape rake and box blade however I also felt it worth the investment of adding the hydraulic side link. When grading our gravel road I find I'm actually making adjustments more with the side link to pitch the road to get a proper crown as well as ditching the sides. Brian from FitRite Hydraulics custom made the side link for me. I already know I would not be happy having to go back and manually make link adjustments. If my dealer had demonstrated TnT when I was buying my tractor I would have added it sooner.