you can get cheap "dip switches" for like 5 bucks. all it takes is to drill a hole into some plastic or piece of thin flat metal. the dip switch fits through the hole and then a "nut" gets screwed on. and that is all there is to it.
for the switch you have chosen. can be a little more complicated to fit. part of it, is you will need to cut out a "rectangle" hole, and then make the hole almost perfect. so the little "plastic snap tabs" lock the switch into place.
if your tractor has "blanks" for optional stuff you could add later down the road. and all you had to do was remove a blank switch over, and install the switch. and hook up wires. then that would be ideal. but you may be forced to buy the actual switch from a dealer for the given part number for the switch.
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you have 2 houses going to the out rigger. to either contract or expand the cylinder on outrigger. same goes for the hyd thumb.
the diverter valve you picked up. does it mean,
---you just flip the switch "up" no need to hold switch and switch should automatically go back to center. and then use the outrigger lever to lower or rise the out rigger.
--- and then if you flip the switch "down" switch goes back to center, and then you use the outer rigger lever to expand / contract the hyd thumb
does above sound correct?
does the divertor valve you are using, act like 2 3way valves. and you just need to flip the switch for a quick second and that is all that it takes to switch between out rigger or hyd thumb? or does the switch needs to stay on in the up or down position, so hyd oil goes to the out rigger or hyd thumb?
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do not forget about adding a "inline fuse" if you are not able to wire things into the fuse box.
