Mowing 48" Deck trouble cutting

[rebmo]

Just an additional summary. Even with the lower RPMs due to the dirty messed air filter, it was not bogging due to the belt slippage. I can get down on my hands and I'm really surpised the belt turns the deck at all. As mentioned in one post, I will possibly bog the motor with a proper belt. I should see grass blowing out the chute hard too when I'm at the right speed and the deck is running at the right rpms.

Should be interesting when I get the OEM belt I ordered. Ironically the higher RPMs with the cleaner air filter now slips the belt even more. So what a cluster along with the oil leak. I maintain all my stuff well, but working my way into this new to me used machine is a journey. I'm committed to resolving the issues since I'm only into the machine for about $900. Can't really afford new so fix fix fix until right.

Reb

 

[rebmo]

Just checking in with some progress on the cutting ability in thick grass. I recieved the tune up kit and the new belts. Installed the JD OEM Deck PTO drive belt which was much beefier than the belt the belt that was on the GT. My grass was up to about 4" and getting pretty thick again due to some steady soaking grain early this week. The new belt was actually much harder to get on and had to roll it onto the deck pulley where the other just popped on. This was a early indicator even before firing up the GT, that the new belt was going to be a big improvement.

So I fired up, dropped the deck, and engaged the PTO. With the blades turning I headed for the thick 4" grass at speed 4 of 6. As I got into the thick grass it cut and blew it out the deck just fine. So I put it up to speed 5 and it still handled it fine. Then up to 6 and it was still cutting and not slipping. It gets a little bouncy in spots due to the terrain, but now the GT 266 cuts just fine without the PTO drive belt slipping and burning. Oh, and I realized I had the deck set at 2.5" instead of 3" since I had it set at 2.5" for my thinner EZ cut front yard.

So I'll do a tune up this weekend and plan to do the oil leak fix ASAP. This will require a motor pull so I'll need a day or 2 to get through it and put a new crankase gasket with sealer. I should be good to go then.

Thanks for all the tips. My big takeaway to share is that OEM belts are worth it. Maybe there are quality OEM replacements, but for the grief I had, I would not bother. Go Green. It took my 1/2 the time cutting my 1 acre lot at speed 5 and it did a much nicer job appearance wise.

I have a new drive belt coming today for the 1978 Allis Chalmers 718 I have and that looks to be the magic on that tractor too. I look forward to running that GT. It's an all metal machine in really great shape. Strange, both machines had cheapo belts on the PTO drive, but I suppose some folk take the cheap way out before selling. Buyer beware.

All the tune up ideas prompted me to give the JD a full tune up. Obviously maintainance is Key on GTs.

Thanks again all,

Reb

 

[uglyboywith11fingers]

Thanks for all the tips. My big takeaway to share is that OEM belts are worth it. Maybe there are quality OEM replacements, but for the grief I had, I would not bother. Reb

sounds like your belt problem may have been that it was the wrong size ie: too long. But I agree with you on sticking with OEM belts. I tried one from TSC a few years ago, cost $20some bucks as opposed to the OEM being over $50. The TSC belt was the right length, but just came apart in a few weeks.
TSC replaced it for free, but next one shredded in short order also. OEM belts last about 5 years.

Pete

 

[rebmo]

I got ambitious today and pulled the 17hp kawa off the GT262 and fixed the oil leak. Put it this way, there isn't any rust on the frame, with all the oil that was flying around under the motor. Obviously not good for belts though.

So I was impressed with how easily I was able to pull the motor. The PTO and drive clutch took the longest with the keys having been there since 1992 but not too hard. When I pulled the crank cover off it was easy to see how the oil was leaking. The original gasket had folded inside the crank and there was just metal on metal for 3" or so. This thing has been leaking since day 1 it appears. So I put the new crankcase gasket on and used moto-seal on both sides and put it back together and did a full tune up, Oil, Filter, plug, Air filter & foam w/oil, and fuel filter. It was way past time. So, remounted the motor, put most of it back together, except the hood and it fired right up and ran fantastic. It does seem to run at higher RPMs.

So I took it back to the shed and attached the 48" deck and took it through the thick stuff and it was blowing out grass like mad with a 2.5" cut height.

I had been looking at the deck and noticed there is a mulching kit installed, but the output chute hole perfed blocker has been retracted all the way up. Therefore it does not restrict the output. I'd love to mulch with this deck. Has anyone had luck with mulching with at 48" JD deck? I may have to run slower thatn full speed, I assume I would have to lower the output blocker to mulch effectively. Dont' know if I have mulching blades either.

So next question is, Can you mulch successfully with a JD 48" deck and doest the blow out shoot blocker have to be dropped which I'm assuming is a yes.

Thanks for all the great ideas. Tried them all and each was part of the overall improvment. I'm cutting great again.

Reb

 

[Mark Page]

I have a GT275 I bought new in '98. It has a 17hp Kawa and a 48" deck. We use it on all the tight spots that our 7' Woods mower won't fit. I occassionally mow our 1 acre back yard because it does such a nice job. It has a hst. I tried a set of mulching blades once and all they did was make clods.
My point is to replace the blades no matter what else. Even though you're gonna' get screwed, buy Deere. I sharpen them once and then replace them.
You don't know if the previous owner abused it by running over sticks,limbs or rocks.
Are you sure the deck is level?

 

[RandyBell]

I have a JD LT180 with the 48" deck and I usually cut no lower than 2.75".
In the fall I put a plate on the discharge to hold the clippings, and leaves in for more chopping, I have to run a little slower ground speed but still have good results. I have the same 17hp Kaw in mine.
Sounds like the work you have done on yours was well worth the time and money.

Good luck
Randy

 

[tcartwri]

In heavy grass like yours I prefer a high lift blade.

 

[rebmo]

Well, here's what I ended up learning & doing. I was interested in a mulch kit for the deck since I didn't want to bag so I started looking at them. Turns out my deck had the mulch kit with the outlet block off rasied all the way up. Some folks report success with mulching and some don't. Those that had success all seemed to suggest slower speeds. So I took note on that, but also read of some folks using gator mulching blades without the "mulch kit" for the deck. So I ordered a set of 3 gator blades and pulled the "mulch kit" from the 48" JD deck. With the motor in tip top shape, new belts, a clean greased deck with new blades and a wide open chute off I went. The results were great. Although it's been dry for a couiple weeks now and there is not much thick grass, the thick grass I encountered I coiuld easily handle at speed 5 of 6. It probably would have cut fine at 6 but the ground is getting so dry the GT262 starts to bounce so I backed off. With the mulch kit out the deck blows out a good 3 ft or more going through thick grass. The cut was really nice even and flat. I think it was really time form my old blades to go. The deck runs quieter and smoother. All is good. I'll just have to see how it handles the really thick fall grass. We had very heavy rains last night, but there is a lot of brown in the semi dormant grass and we are now hitting the summer weather here in Wisconsin. So a lot of things done on the GT262 and it now runs and cuts like a champ. Feels good to have it up to par as far as maintainence. I may try the mulch kit later but for now there is no clumping of grass and the deck chops it an blows it out like mad now. So I'll report back in Sept/Oct when the grass gets thick again.

Thanks for all the help and ideas, greatly appreciated. Don't hesitate to ask if you have any questions on the crankcase gasket replacement.

Reb

 

[Adamg7720]

the tall grass CAN be mowed in one day down from 4-1/2in to 4in, down to a yard in one day
first-check the blades: sharp and properly installed. second, belts, third-everything greased, etc,. i have a John Deere 455(22HP) with a 60 inch deck. my sister in laws back yard was 3 times that( approximately 13- 19". what i did, was adjust my deck to where i could get the most cut w/o bogging thi engine( something you DONT) want to do. then i kept cutting it in half everytine, eventually working it back down to looking like a yard again. one thing i do like to do though, is as im going around, mow it down really good( the heighth i wan) and then and taking the cut grass and blowing it to that spot. i was able to work what was about 2 acres of tall, unwanted grass, down to a yard in about 2.5 hours. i hope any of this helps. Again, whatever you do, you DO NOT and i repeat, DO NOT, want to put any "load" on the engine, which can cause unwanted wear and tear on any engine.

 

[pace1]

I have a John Deere lt180 mower. The deck will only turn half speed. All the pulleys, spindles, and belt have been replace. I have tried adjusting the belt and nothing works. If anyone has had this problem please HELP.