Ford 641 Workmaster Questions and Advice

[Hokie1984]

There is nothing like the smell of a well tuned ford when she's warmed up and ready to work! Give her fresh gas, properly gaped points, clean air, fresh oil, and she will sing the song of man and machine till the day turns to night.

 

[Guesseral]

As far as cutting the PTO shaft, just read the instruction that come with the mower it is all there and pretty easy to undrestand.

 

[knifeman32]

Alright guys, I have received my tractor and everything works as it should. I began installing the overrunning clutch and it looks like I have fouled up one of the ends of the roll pin. Of course it was the end I was tapping in. I can't remove it at this point. I'm going to try to drive it in the rest of the way and install the second grease zerk. It frustrated me a bit but I am still more than happy with this machine. Now onto more questions:

What hydraulic fluid, engine oil, and differential fluid should I run in this baby? I guess cross referencing an oil filter would work for knowing the appropriate oil filter. What else should I do when maintaining the tractor? Any other areas that I need to pay attention to? Finally, how often should I grease the tractor and where are all of the grease zerks located? Thanks for any help guys. I appreciate it.

 

[Soundguy]

owners manual shows you the lubrication fittings.

if you look hard.. you can fint it online. I know the ntractorclub.com has it in their manuals section..

engine oil? in temperate areas I'd run a 15w40 C (s) rated oil.. in arctic areas.. 10w30.

oil filter , if a spin on.. the fram ph8a, supertech st8a, motorcraft fl1a.. napa 1452 though a 1515 will fit.. and about a billion others that cross.. if a cartridge type.. i believe a napa 1004 or a fram ch6pl and any crosses..

hyds sump takes utf meeting the m2c134 spec. can use that in the diffy sump and trans sump as well.. you could use an 80w90 gear oil in the trans and rear if you wanted. if your hyd smp and diffy inter sump seals leak.. just use utf in both...

remember to use 6qts of oil on a change, as 5-5.5 for engine.. and .5 qt for the oil bath air filter. may need to remove and rinse media in diesel.. etc..

probably good to drain and refill coolant and water.. fill to cover coils. new hoses if it needs it. check gauges to see if they work.. chase leaks.. check fan belt.. and charge system.. wireing..e tc. all normal stuff.. etc.

adjust brakes if needed. standard drum with star wheels..e tc..

get a service manual.. even if the simple I&T fo-20 for a farm store.. better than notheing.. plos that owners manul.. a parts catalog would be nice too.. but if nothig else you can lookup exploded diagrams online at the cnh parts site. same diagrams and aprts list as the manual has.. etc.

as a tip.. oem genny and dizzy have an oil cup that gets a couple drips.

other info.

pints gap at .025 so do plugs.. I reccomend al437 or champion H12 ( 512 ) fire order is 1-2-4-3

that's about it on the basics unless you have any other specific questions..

 

[knifeman32]

owners manual shows you the lubrication fittings.

if you look hard.. you can fint it online. I know the ntractorclub.com has it in their manuals section..

engine oil? in temperate areas I'd run a 15w40 C (s) rated oil.. in arctic areas.. 10w30.

oil filter , if a spin on.. the fram ph8a, supertech st8a, motorcraft fl1a.. napa 1452 though a 1515 will fit.. and about a billion others that cross.. if a cartridge type.. i believe a napa 1004 or a fram ch6pl and any crosses..

hyds sump takes utf meeting the m2c134 spec. can use that in the diffy sump and trans sump as well.. you could use an 80w90 gear oil in the trans and rear if you wanted. if your hyd smp and diffy inter sump seals leak.. just use utf in both...

remember to use 6qts of oil on a change, as 5-5.5 for engine.. and .5 qt for the oil bath air filter. may need to remove and rinse media in diesel.. etc..

probably good to drain and refill coolant and water.. fill to cover coils. new hoses if it needs it. check gauges to see if they work.. chase leaks.. check fan belt.. and charge system.. wireing..e tc. all normal stuff.. etc.

adjust brakes if needed. standard drum with star wheels..e tc..

get a service manual.. even if the simple I&T fo-20 for a farm store.. better than notheing.. plos that owners manul.. a parts catalog would be nice too.. but if nothig else you can lookup exploded diagrams online at the cnh parts site. same diagrams and aprts list as the manual has.. etc.

as a tip.. oem genny and dizzy have an oil cup that gets a couple drips.

other info.

pints gap at .025 so do plugs.. I reccomend al437 or champion H12 ( 512 ) fire order is 1-2-4-3

that's about it on the basics unless you have any other specific questions..

I believe that you have pretty much covered everything that I could ever want to know. I ordered a manual and it actually arrived today. I'm goint to catch up on some reading and check everything out.


I do have a few questions regarding a rotary mower and slip clutch. I finally installed an overrunning clutch. Today, I bought a king kutter 5 foot rotary cutter and a slip clutch. Is it okay to run a slip clutch with the shear bolts that come standard on these? I bought a slip clutch as well because the area is somewhat rocky that I will be cutting in. Also, I have been told that I will need to cut the shaft. I can't find anything in the product manual that gives instructions for cutting. Where should I cut it and about how much should I leave for flexibility? I just don't want to cut it too short and then be stuck. I realize that running a slip clutch and an overrunning clutch will probably force me to cut it down some but how much is the real question? My final question is, do I need to adjust the slip clutch that I purchased from TSC or can I just install it? I have read a few threads about folks adjusting their slip clutch but I don't have the slightest idea about what to do in terms of adjusting it or how much to adjust it. Any help is appreciated. Thanks for your great explanations above guys!

 

[Soundguy]

I believe that you have pretty much covered everything that I could ever want to know.

oh don't worry.. you'll have more questions these oldies like to be touched now and then. here's one to scratch down. valves adjust at 15 thousandths hot..

I do have a few questions regarding a rotary mower and slip clutch. I finally installed an overrunning clutch. Today, I bought a king kutter 5 foot rotary cutter and a slip clutch. Is it okay to run a slip clutch with the shear bolts that come standard on these? I bought a slip clutch as well because the area is somewhat rocky that I will be cutting in. Also, I have been told that I will need to cut the shaft. I can't find anything in the product manual that gives instructions for cutting. Where should I cut it and about how much should I leave for flexibility? I just don't want to cut it too short and then be stuck. I realize that running a slip clutch and an overrunning clutch will probably force me to cut it down some but how much is the real question? My final question is, do I need to adjust the slip clutch that I purchased from TSC or can I just install it? I have read a few threads about folks adjusting their slip clutch but I don't have the slightest idea about what to do in terms of adjusting it or how much to adjust it. Any help is appreciated. Thanks for your great explanations above guys!

i'd loosent he slip clutch so that it freely slipped.. then adjust it tighter till it stopped slipping and test it on a patch of grass. use a paint marker to mark across the media and edges.. then mow. if the line is still lined up it didn't slip and you are good.. if it did slip mowing a strip.. tighten more and recheck with a new line. paperwhite makes a good line.

install the orc correct so that it freewheels 1 way...

lift mower on 3p with pto shaft unhooked from tractor but on mower.. lift it even so mower drive is direct across from pto on tractor.. thi is the shortest distance. set mower shadft next to tractor pto to see if it is too long. ideally at shortest area you still want an inch of play.. and on extension.. at least 6" overlap.

if a square on square or triangle in triangle or lemon in lemon cross section shaft.. figure amount needed to be cut.. then cut half that amount off the end of each shaft.. sheild in cluded. if a square inner into a round outter with square inner drive.... don't cut that way.. post back.. have to cut the aft of te round shaft and some of the inner shaft down.. reason is as round with square end is drive end and is only at front of shaft.. so you can';t cut it off..

on t he slip clutch.. it will attach to the mower with a bolt in the hole that the shaer bolt used. shear bolt would have been a gr2.. for attaching the slip clutch though, use a hard bolt. don't want it to shear or partially shear vs the clutch slipping...

 

[knifeman32]

I believe that you have pretty much covered everything that I could ever want to know.

oh don't worry.. you'll have more questions these oldies like to be touched now and then. here's one to scratch down. valves adjust at 15 thousandths hot..



i'd loosent he slip clutch so that it freely slipped.. then adjust it tighter till it stopped slipping and test it on a patch of grass. use a paint marker to mark across the media and edges.. then mow. if the line is still lined up it didn't slip and you are good.. if it did slip mowing a strip.. tighten more and recheck with a new line. paperwhite makes a good line.

install the orc correct so that it freewheels 1 way...

lift mower on 3p with pto shaft unhooked from tractor but on mower.. lift it even so mower drive is direct across from pto on tractor.. thi is the shortest distance. set mower shadft next to tractor pto to see if it is too long. ideally at shortest area you still want an inch of play.. and on extension.. at least 6" overlap.

if a square on square or triangle in triangle or lemon in lemon cross section shaft.. figure amount needed to be cut.. then cut half that amount off the end of each shaft.. sheild in cluded. if a square inner into a round outter with square inner drive.... don't cut that way.. post back.. have to cut the aft of te round shaft and some of the inner shaft down.. reason is as round with square end is drive end and is only at front of shaft.. so you can';t cut it off..

on t he slip clutch.. it will attach to the mower with a bolt in the hole that the shaer bolt used. shear bolt would have been a gr2.. for attaching the slip clutch though, use a hard bolt. don't want it to shear or partially shear vs the clutch slipping...

I am assuming that I installed the ORC correctly. I hooked it up to the pto, lined up the holes, removed the grease zerks, tapped in the roll pin, and screwed the grease zerks back in. I did foul up one end of the roll pin and had to tap one of the grease zerks in. When I say tap, I had to use a tap (not tap with a hammer). Nonetheless, it is own and it spins. How can I check to make sure that I installed it properly. I feel confident that I did but now I am second guessing myself.

By the way, thanks for all of your help. I wish you were in NC. I am sort of a visual learner but I guess with experience comes success.

 

[knifeman32]

Oh... one final thing. Please don't judge my lack of knowledge. When I install the slip clutch, I do install it at the gearbox correct? I believe that I install the slip clutch directly into and out of the gearbox but I just wanted to make sure.

 

[Soundguy]

very common to install the slip clutch right to the gearbox.

on the orc, as long as the roll pin is in far enough that the outter shell can spin in one direction and locks up i nthe other.. it's fine.

your questions are perfectly normal. and good. You are asking all the correct ones ( and there really are no incorrect ones! ).

be safe, have fun, and get to know that machine.

ask any questions you have. many times some stuff is covered int he manual but may help hearing / asking about it as well. don't hesitate to do so. better to be safe and ask, than to damage the tractor or hurt yourself.

soundguy

 

[knifeman32]

very common to install the slip clutch right to the gearbox.

on the orc, as long as the roll pin is in far enough that the outter shell can spin in one direction and locks up i nthe other.. it's fine.

your questions are perfectly normal. and good. You are asking all the correct ones ( and there really are no incorrect ones! ).

be safe, have fun, and get to know that machine.

ask any questions you have. many times some stuff is covered int he manual but may help hearing / asking about it as well. don't hesitate to do so. better to be safe and ask, than to damage the tractor or hurt yourself.

soundguy

Alright... last question... maybe. I took the tractor out and really tested the workload this weekend. I cut about a two acre field that was totally full of brush. I used a 5ft bush hog with a 40hp gearbox. The cutter worked amazingly well. The field was full of small trees, blackberry bushes and more random weeds and plants. My tractor had a bit of issues with what I believe was a fuel problem. At first I though the bush hog may be too large for the tractor? (what are your thoughts)? But then again, it pulled it and lifted it well. The pto worked fine. Turns out, I think the tractor was sitting for a while at the dealership I bought it from and it gathered some debris/water in the gas tank. I had to empty my sediment bowl twice. The first time it had a healthy does of water in it along with some trash. The second time there was still a little drop or two of water and more debris. My tractor was sputtering when I was cutting and it overheated a little. I cut it off, rested it and it worked great again. I am assuming that this debris is what is causing it? Am I correct in assuming this?

Also, I plan on changing out the hydraulic oil this coming weekend. When I checked the hydraulic fluid and the differential fluid, it was a milky white color. I am assuming that some water may have gotten in it as well. Is there a filter that I need to replace as well? The engine oil was changed when I bought it from the dealer so I think that it is good. I found the reservoir for the hydraulic fluid at the gear shifter and the reservoir in the back behind the seat. Am I missing another reservoir? Thanks for all of your help. Between you and my neighbor, I may actually be getting the hang of this.