Rotary Cutter Rotary Mower - Adjusting Rear Deck Height With CHAINS

[jeff9366]

Scattered around the ATTACHMENTS and OPERATING Forums are references to using chains to limit Rotary Mower drop, rather than relying on the 3-pt control adjustable stops; however there exist minimal photos.

I was told there was a junked rotary cutter lying in the grass in a remote area of the three-year old housing development where I live in North Central Florida. After chopping it out of the jungle I found a sad King Kutter L-48-40-P-Y, with quite a few missing parts. As I had "0" rotary cutter experience I decided to resurrect this implement and use it as a "learner." I have "invested" about $300 on parts, including chains. Todays evolved version of my King Kutter L-48-40-P-Y is the L-48-40-P, which sells for $800 new.

My tractor/loader is a 2011 Kubota B3300SU Package / 33-hp / 25-hp PTO, with the famous, or infamous, Kubota 1/4"-ing 3-pt adjustment. To make a long story short, I could not get the mower height to hold. The Kubota mechanic at my local dealer, where I bought the tractor/loader, could not get the height to hold. He called the Kubota Consulting Mechanic....who suggested chains. At this point I started reading every relevant post I could find on T-B-N; and I got some ideas.

I note that this is the sole attachment with which I have had issues relative to 1/4"-ing. None of my other implements are deck height critical.

I started by installing the chains to hold up the REAR of the cutter. A pair of factory holes were available at the rear of the frame and most archive T-B-N posts I read dealt with suspending the rear of attachments. See the pictures. I keep 5/16" and 3/8" chains on the tractor. After making some measurements the 3/8" chain seemed about the right length so I used it, rather than the 24" longer 5/16" chain. The 3/8" chain supports the cutter deck from a 3/8" shackle pierced by the lower of two top link pins. (Top Link in this application is on top pin.)

The 3/8" chain is much heavier than necessary. The cutter weighs 425 pounds which is supported at four points on the tractor: two lift arms, chain/frame and the tail wheel. Not much weight on any one support point. I used 3/8" chain only because it was at hand and just a bit longer than necessary.

It is difficult to see in the shadow but there are SIX bungee cords wound around the cutter frame and hooked into 3/8" chain links to keep the chain absolutely away from the PTO shaft. Very redundant. Very safe.

The chain drop-limit works FINE, however I could not mow lower than 5", a safe height to get my first experience with this powerful and potentially dangerous attachment.

With the chains taut there is 50-60 pounds of downward pressure on the tail wheel. The skids are 6-1/2" above ground at the rear, 5" at the front.

The PTO safety shield was very brittle. I attached it with two tether chains, one at each end of the PTO, which you can see in the photos, but half of the shield soon dropped off in chunks. The two limit chains and 3-pt cutter mounting frame pretty well shield the PTO. A third chain down the middle would complete an enclosure.

All this worked FINE @ 5", except I wanted to be able to cut @ 3-4". After awhile I realized that I need to limit drop at the front of the cutter NOT the rear.

I bought more hardware to set up the front-limit chains and installed everything this afternoon but before I could take photos it started to rain heavily so I will make a separate rear-support dedicated post tomorrow, with photos, covering the front limit-chains.

Just as well. This can stay a "pure" thread on rear deck limit-chains.

I hope this helps someone.

 

[TripleR]

You might find this of use: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/170478-mower-deck-height-stabilizer.html

 

[jeff9366]

Thank you, TripleR. As you will see in my photos tomorrow the setup I came up with for supporting FRONT of the deck is very similar to the one in the link you provided.

Fast work. Did you have that reference "filed?"

Thanks again.

 

[pacerron]

Scattered around the ATTACHMENTS and OPERATING Forums are references to using chains to limit Rotary Mower drop, rather than relying on the 3-pt control adjustable stops; however there exist minimal photos.

I was told there was a junked rotary cutter lying in the grass in a remote area of the three-year old housing development where I live in North Central Florida. After chopping it out of the jungle I found a sad King Kutter L-48-40-P-Y, with quite a few missing parts. As I had "0" rotary cutter experience I decided to resurrect this implement and use it as a "learner." I have "invested" about $300 on parts, including chains. Todays evolved version of my King Kutter L-48-40-P-Y is the L-48-40-P, which sells for $800 new.

My tractor/loader is a 2011 Kubota B3300SU Package / 33-hp / 25-hp PTO, with the famous, or infamous, Kubota 1/4"-ing 3-pt adjustment. To make a long story short, I could not get the mower height to hold. The Kubota mechanic at my local dealer, where I bought the tractor, could not get the height to hold. He called the Kubota Consulting Mechanic....who suggested chains. At this point I started reading every relevant post I could find on T-B-N; and I got some ideas.

I note that this is the sole attachment with which I have had issues relative to 1/4"-ing. None of my other implements are deck height critical.

I started by installing the chains to hold up the REAR of the cutter. A pair of factory holes were available at the rear of the frame and most T-B-N posts deal with suspending the rear of rotary mowers. See the pictures. I keep 5/16" and 3/8" chains on the tractor. After making some measurements the 3/8" chain seemed about the right length so I used it, rather than the 24" longer 5/16" chain. The 3/8" chain supports the cutter deck from a 3/8" shackle pierced by the lower of two top link pins. (Top Link in this application is on top pin.)
The chain is much heavier than necessary. The cutter weighs 425 pounds which is supported by the 3-pt, chain/tractor and the tail wheel.

It is difficult to see but there are six bungee cords wound around the cutter frame and hooked into the 3/8" chain links to keep the chain absolutely away from the PTO shaft. Very redundant. Very safe.

The chain drop-limit works FINE, however I could not mow lower than 5", a safe height to get my first experience with this powerful and potentially dangerous attachment.

With the chains taut there is 50-60 pounds of downward pressure on the tail wheel. The skids are 6-1/2" above ground at the rear, 5" at the front.

The PTO safety shield was very brittle. I attached it with two tether chains, one at each end of the PTO, which you can see in the photos, but half of the shield soon dropped off in chunks. The two limit chains and 3-pt cutter mounting frame pretty well shield the PTO. A third chain down the middle would complete an enclosure.

All this worked FINE @ 5", except I wanted to be able to cut @ 3-4". After awhile I realized that I need to limit drop at the front of the cutter NOT the rear.

I bought more hardware to set up the front-limit chains and installed everything this afternoon but before I could take photos it started to rain heavily so I will make another post tomorrow, with photos, covering the front limit-chains.

Just as well. This can stay a "pure" thread on rear deck limit-chains.

I hope this helps someone.

Your check chains should be mounted near the front of the mower, not the back. You have a couple holes available behind the vertical pieces where your
center link attaches. If you get or make a couple chain brackets like shown attached to the ROPS in the other thread, these are held in place with a bolt or latch pin through the spare hole for your top link.
The chains, cut longer than the distance required are then put through the large holes in each bracket and turned sideways to lock in the slot. That way
you can adjust the height of your mower front to different levels based on which chain link you have in the slot.
I probably have pictures of this on my Woods mower, but they are on another pc. I'll look for them later and post, if you like.
Ron

 

[TripleR]

Thank you, TripleR. As you will see in my photos tomorrow the setup I came up with for supporting FRONT of the deck is very similar to the one in the link you provided.

Fast work. Did you have that reference "filed?"

Thanks again.

Not filed, I just remembered talking to KU Gator about it and checked posts started by him. I considered doing it to my BX, but just bought another tractor and rarely use the rotary cutter on the BX.

 

[pacerron]

After reading your post again I see you do plan to support the front but just have not got there yet. You won't need the chains to the back.
Since I dug up the pictures of my arrangement in the meantime I will post them here anyway. A lot of folks talking about rotary mowers on other posts never heard of check chains for mowers.
These were standard equipment with the Woods mower I purchased 23 years ago and they and the mower have worked great for 100's of hours doing all kinds of tuff clearing work along woods, around my pond, and everywhere else.
The first shot shows the mower being supported by the tractor lift links so the chain length can be selected for cutting height.
The second shows the chains supporting the front of the mower so you don't have to fool with your 3 pt to maintain the height you want to cut.
the back of the deck should be higher than the front, via the rear wheel, so the blade cuts easier and any trash is thrown out the back, not forward into you.
The 3rd pic just shows the bracket mount to the tractor up close.
The blade has never been sharpened and I was checking it for any cracks.
The original 3/16 blunt edge is still in pretty good shape. These blades swing on pins to offer additional protection along with the stump jumper and the slip clutch on the PTO shaft.

 

[jeff9366]

Great explanation and photos Pacerron. I wish I had viewed your photos and read your explanation before starting my project(s). I spent considerable time figuring out the hardware part of how to mount the chains at both ends, and visiting Tractor Supply Company and my local Ace Hardware for parts. I guess the upside of my project, Plan A, rear support; and Plan B, front support, is that the hardware is generic and readers will be able to duplicate the hardware locally.

Did those brackets with the grab-link-slots come with the Woods? Does Woods still offer them? Got left/right part numbers? What size limit chain are you using? If Woods does NOT still make the brackets with the grab-link-slots any idea of another vender?

For my FRONT limit I utilize 5/16" grab links on 3/8" pins through spare holes in the bracket used to middle-fold the ROPS on my Kubota. I will take "Plan B" photos today if the rain clears away.

 

[greg_g]

Yup, check chains are for the front. What you've done is redundant, in that your chain is duplicating the job of the tail wheel. Check chains are not an uncommon sight on older tractors, as well as those with hydraulic leakdown issues. I used a set for my old YM240, although they were designed a little better than those shown above The upper end was similar to those shown below. The keyhole slots are intended to permit manual positioning of the chain for cutting height adjustment. But on the mower end they slipped right over the lift pins.

//greg//

 

[BlacknTan]

Great explanation and photos Pacerron. I wish I had viewed your photos and read your explanation before starting my project(s). I spent considerable time figuring out the hardware part of how to mount the chains at both ends, and visiting Tractor Supply Company and my local Ace Hardware for parts. I guess the upside of my project, Plan A, rear support; and Plan B, front support, is that the hardware is generic and readers will be able to duplicate the hardware locally.

Did those brackets with the grab-link-slots come with the Woods? Does Woods still offer them? Got left/right part numbers? What size limit chain are you using? If Woods does NOT still make the brackets with the grab-link-slots any idea of another vender?

For my FRONT limit I utilize 5/16" grab links on 3/8" pins through spare holes in the bracket used to middle-fold the ROPS on my Kubota. I will take "Plan B" photos today if the rain clears away.

I've got the Woods check chain set-up for my Woods bush hog, it works great. The kit is available from Woods, and there is a part number for the brackets... the same, right to left, but be aware that the holes for the top link bracket are 1 inch. I made and tack welded stepped bushings to adapt to 3/4" for Cat 1. Otherwise.. easy-peasy.

Here's a Woods manual. Pay attention to page 42 for installation, and 47 for part numbers. The brackets are #7906.

http://www.woodsequipment.com/uploadedFiles/Products/Manuals/MAN0632.pdf

 

[pacerron]

Great explanation and photos Pacerron. I wish I had viewed your photos and read your explanation before starting my project(s). I spent considerable time figuring out the hardware part of how to mount the chains at both ends, and visiting Tractor Supply Company and my local Ace Hardware for parts. I guess the upside of my project, Plan A, rear support; and Plan B, front support, is that the hardware is generic and readers will be able to duplicate the hardware locally.

Did those brackets with the grab-link-slots come with the Woods? Does Woods still offer them? Got left/right part numbers? What size limit chain are you using? If Woods does NOT still make the brackets with the grab-link-slots any idea of another vender?

For my FRONT limit I utilize 5/16" grab links on 3/8" pins through spare holes in the bracket used to middle-fold the ROPS on my Kubota. I will take "Plan B" photos today if the rain clears away.

Glad you got some value from my pics and explanation.
The Woods Lower Check Chain brackets have a part #7906.
I'm not sure if you can get them but call them and ask.
The brackets shown in the pictures from the other thread look the same, maybe not as heavy. They may be available at TS.
The chain on my Woods is 3/8 but you must get chain that is properly sized to fit the slot in whatever bracket you buy or make to get the benefit of using the slot to easily adjust the front of the mower height. The extra chain beyond can be tied or supported back to the upcoming chain from the mower to keep it from flopping around.
Using chain hooks on the tractor end as in some pictures you show from other posts, in the slots, limits the height adjustment to one height, which is ok if that is all you want.
IMO it is better to have the flexability in height adjustment in case you get in an area where you might want it higher. Or in case you use a different tractor..
Your top center link on your tractor is what supports the rear of the mower when you lift the wheel off the ground. You need to have some flex in that link at the mower connection so the back wheel will stay on the ground and float with the contour. I don't see that in your pictures, but it is hard to see how you have that end of the top link attached to the mower bracket.
You won't see that on my Woo9ds pictures either but on the Woods the entire bracket is made to move forward to a stop and backward to another.
It pivots on the bottom mounting bolts at the mower. Other mfg. use a couple pieces of steel about 4" long. One end pivots on the mower upright bracket and the other is where the upper link is attached.
You should try to use the top link hole at the tractor for the top link that gives the most parrallelism between the top and lower links. That way when you lift the deck, it lifts evenly. Try both holes and decide which works bes and put the chain brackets in the other.

I would not attach the check chains to the ROPS in any manner. They would apply an angular backward/down pressure that is not equalized from the front.
Even if it were, you might have situations where the mower suddenly drops in the front creating a sudden jerk on the ROPS. Your 450 pound mower becomes a lot heavier as an angular jerking force.

Gotta go.
Let me know if you have more ? and send pics of your setup.
Ron