Staining concrete

   / Staining concrete #1  

schoolsout

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Planning on having a concrete floor in the shed (living quarters area which is about 960 sq ft.)

Looking at the Quikrete product, but know nothing about it other than what is on their video. Anyone have any experience doing this and recommendations on certain brands to consider/use?
 
   / Staining concrete #2  
II assume you are talking an existing slab... Things to know is that prep is the key. Use the acid and etch and clean as directed. Second, it is not a stain. While it does stain it does come up like paint when it wears off, and it will come up in any moderate traffic zones. Not quickly but it is not permanent like a dye.
 
   / Staining concrete
  • Thread Starter
#3  
II assume you are talking an existing slab... Things to know is that prep is the key. Use the acid and etch and clean as directed. Second, it is not a stain. While it does stain it does come up like paint when it wears off, and it will come up in any moderate traffic zones. Not quickly but it is not permanent like a dye.

It will be on a slab that has yet to be poured. The quickrete video makes it sound like there is a chemical reaction in the concrete and is not like a paint, but I could be mistaken.

Like you say, prep is the key. The video shows to clean the surface so the stuff gets into the concrete. Basically, if water beads up, it's not clean enough. After the stain, there is a glossy sealer looking stuff you apply. Maybe this is paintlike?
 
   / Staining concrete #4  
Look to your concrete supplier, they can make it just about any color you want when it comes out of the truck.
 
   / Staining concrete #5  
It will be on a slab that has yet to be poured. The quickrete video makes it sound like there is a chemical reaction in the concrete and is not like a paint, but I could be mistaken.
Why don't you order it stained from the plant? You'll get a nice consistent product that's colored all the way through. We poured colored concrete a few times, you have to be careful how much water you add to keep color consistent, and it has to be cured properly to keep color consistent.
 
   / Staining concrete
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I will do some inquiring! Thanks for the suggestion.

Do you seal it afterwards?
 
   / Staining concrete #7  
Ok, here we go...

#1. You can order integral color when pouring new concrete. Go look at the Concrete Network for more info.

#2. If you plan on pouring concrete and then staining afterwards, DO NOT let the concrete guys order calcium or any other type of accelerator in the loads. It shouldn't be used in colored concrete loads anyway.

#3. If staining DO NOT let the contractor spray a curing compound or any type of sealer on the surface. Water-curing only. You can test concrete to see if staining will work by putting water droplets on the surface in a few areas and covering with plastic sheeting (even sandwich bags will work). Tape the edges with blue masking tape that doesn't leave residue. If after an hour the water hasn't soaked into the concrete the concrete will not accept staining.

#4. If staining NEVER use acid (muriatic or anything else) to open up or clean the surface. The chemical reaction required for the stain to work will be lost.

#5. Concrete that will be stained should be hard-troweled. Don't let the contractor broom finish or get creative with a sweat finish. You want the surface to be as smooth as possible.

#6. Before staining concrete (even new), use a floor machine with sanding screens to "open up) the surface. You will also use the machine and red scotch pads to remove excess stain and white pads will polish it up nicely.

#7. Sealer is a must for any colored or stained concrete. Indoors you can use a water based penetrating sealer and a mop-on wax for a glossy finish. I like the wax from Decorative Concrete Supply. Your dealer probably has their own favorite.

#8. Outdoors, or indoors where good ventilation is present, use a chemical based gloss sealer. Add Shark Grip or a similar non-skid additive to the second coat only. Don't overdo the additive or the surface will look milky. Chemical based sealers work the best and easiest when applied with a poly roller.

#9. Use blue masking tape and masking paper to protect the baseboards and walls from staining overspray. The stain will etch aluminum...don't ask me how I know. :eek:

#10. When staining think "bad spray bomb" paint job instead of trying to cover everything uniformly. The finished project will look much better. Don't let the stain puddle either or you'll end up with dark spots.

I've had more problems when staining from sealers and curing compounds then any other single thing. Add in trying to cleanup oil leaks on driveways and garage floors and unknown spills that refuse to leave and that about covers the majority of the problems I've had doing it over the years.

One thing that looks pretty cool when staining is to broadcast Miracle Grow here and there over the surface before applying the stain. It leaves cool little greenish starbursts. I'd experiment on a small area out of the way before attempting. Another trick is to lightly scatter sawdust or kitty litter lightly over the surface. It holds in the stain in those areas and creates interesting mottling. You can also use a lighter stain color first and then fill in a darker color or colors for nicer mottling as well.

Have fun!:thumbsup:
 

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