Follow up with pics: Bushhogging with bucket on FEL

   / Follow up with pics: Bushhogging with bucket on FEL #11  
LHS,
Nice looking tractor rig glad you got the add on work.:thumbsup:

My only concern is it appears to have alot of tongue weight, hope that works out for you.
 
   / Follow up with pics: Bushhogging with bucket on FEL #12  
jenkinsph said:
LHS,
Nice looking tractor rig glad you got the add on work.:thumbsup:

My only concern is it appears to have alot of tongue weight, hope that works out for you.

Agree. Nearly all of the tractor appears to be ahead of the axle, with only the bushhog to counterweight it. I would load the tractor on backwards. This is, incidentally, how my manual says to do it.
 
   / Follow up with pics: Bushhogging with bucket on FEL #13  
Agree. Nearly all of the tractor appears to be ahead of the axle, with only the bushhog to counterweight it. I would load the tractor on backwards. This is, incidentally, how my manual says to do it.

I don't know if he could still drop the bucket and draw it in close loading it backwards. Might be able to pick the cutter up and back it over the front rail of the trailer long enough to do it without getting too close to the towing 4x4. If the bucket wasn't shinny new green paint you could drop it off first on the front then turn around and let the cutter rest on it with some dunnage in between to keep the two from damaging each other. Doubt if any new owner would want to risk the paint that way though.
With loaded rears he has a lot of the tractors weight over the axles as it is and his Chevy doesn't seem to be squatted or the tires over loaded so perhaps he is OK the way he is. Good point though, the proportion of tongue weight needs to be right and perhaps a trailer two feet longer would be less hassle and safer to use.
 
   / Follow up with pics: Bushhogging with bucket on FEL
  • Thread Starter
#14  
So LHS,

Nice rig! But I've got to know what attachment that is on the top FS 130 R. Some sort of wind rower, or bedder?

That is called an Edgit. I got mine from A.E. Leonard. Its for edging beds and along sidewalks. It spins freely and and acts like a wheel guiding you along to get a clean crisp edge.

I had it for a couple of years and just put it on this year. It does a great job.
 
   / Follow up with pics: Bushhogging with bucket on FEL
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Agree. Nearly all of the tractor appears to be ahead of the axle, with only the bushhog to counterweight it. I would load the tractor on backwards. This is, incidentally, how my manual says to do it.

I tried it both ways to see how it rode. Went to the job site with it backed on and left the site driving forward on the trailer. I thot with it backed on there was too much weight on the back of the trailer and hardly any on the truck. It did ride nice. I thot there would be a more bouncy ride.

With it on forward it was a little bouncy and the truck squatted some but not bad. It was a noticable difference in the ride with the back on way riding better.

I will say the dropping the bucket and re-attaching was easier driving forward because the front part of the trailer kept it in place.

Backing on the bucket slid down the ramp and I had to hook it up at a difficult angle coming off the trailer. Thinking back now I could have slid the bucket out of the way and hooked up when off the trailer. The cutter wont clear the toprail of the trailer enough to back up and hook up.

From all you guys experience if you say its not a problem to have more weight in the back of the trailer than thats the way I'll do it next time.

Thanks for all the nice compliments on my set-up.
 
   / Follow up with pics: Bushhogging with bucket on FEL #16  
From all you guys experience if you say its not a problem to have more weight in the back of the trailer than thats the way I'll do it next time.

You may know this already, but one reading of what you say here ("not a problem to have more weight in the back of the trailer") is very problematic. The trailer must never be loaded tail-heavy. If you meant, "more weight than I currently have in the back of the trailer," that may be no problem at all. But if you meant, "more weight in the back of the trailer than in the front," then that is a serious problem. Never do that! The trailer must always be nose-heavy.

The issue that people are raising is whether, with the tractor loaded forward, your trailer's tongue weight exceeds your towing system's capacity. IMO, the relevant specification is likely to be the allowable tongue weight of your hitch. I was recently surprised to learn that, even though I have a Ram 2500 diesel with a hitch that is rated for 12,000 lbs (1,200 lbs tongue weight), that rating is only good with a weight-distributing system installed, and without a WD system, my hitch is only rated for 3,500 lbs (350 lbs tongue weight). In that discussion, I learned that my spec is a little lower than typical, and most trucks nowadays come with a hitch rated for between 5,000 and 10,000 lbs (500-1000 lbs tongue weight) without a WD system.

I don't see a WD system on your trailer, so I would guess your hitch's rated tongue weight is at most 1,000 lbs, and possibly more like 500 lbs. I have a 16' tandem-axle trailer similar to yours, and it weighs about 1600 lbs. Say yours is 1800 because it's an 18-footer. My tractor is also similar in weight to yours, and, with a bush-hog, comes in somewhere around 4,000-4,500 lbs. If you also have loaded wheels, say that's another 600-800 lbs give or take. All told, you may be right around 7,000 lbs (which, on my trailer, with 3,500 lb axles, would be the limit, but you may have bigger axles on your trailer).

The optimal trailer loading places about 10-15% of the trailer's weight on the tongue. For your trailer, that works out to between 700 and 1,050 lbs. This means that, best-case, if you load the trailer just right, you may be right at the edge of some of your towing system's specifications. But if your hitch is only rated for 500 lbs tongue weight without a WD system (or, heaven forbid, 350 lbs like mine is), you are exceeding the rated capacity of your system even if you load the tractor perfectly.

In reality, a perfect loading is not going to be possible, because there are only so many ways the tractor will fit onto the trailer. My hunch is that if you backed the tractor on, you would reduce the tongue weight without making the trailer tail-heavy, which would be better. But if you have loaded rears, and if the bush-hog is a heavy-duty model, that might not be the case. What you can do is, measure your truck's ride height to the top of the rear wheel well with the trailer decoupled and resting on the jack. Then couple up the trailer and raise the jack and measure the ride height again. As long as the rear of the truck goes down when the trailer is loaded, you know your trailer isn't tail-heavy. At that point, whichever loading puts the least weight on the hitch is the one I would choose. The heavier loading might make for a better ride, but I would be worried about being so close to my hitch's capacity.
 
   / Follow up with pics: Bushhogging with bucket on FEL #17  
BTW, this is a reason why the, "the tires don't look stressed," and, "the springs look okay," tests are inadequate to tell if your towing system is overloaded. What I've learned is that, with almost all hitches, the hitch's tongue weight is the weak link, unless you are using a WD system, which most people don't (RV'ers excepted). I found on etrailers.com, some hitches rated for up to 15,000 lbs (1,500 lbs tongue weight) without a WD system, but the vast majority of bumper-pull hitches topped out around 3,000-5,000 lbs (300-500 lbs) tongue weight unless a WD system was used. This was really news to me, and now I preach the gospel! :laughing:
 
   / Follow up with pics: Bushhogging with bucket on FEL
  • Thread Starter
#18  
You may know this already, but one reading of what you say here ("not a problem to have more weight in the back of the trailer") is very problematic. The trailer must never be loaded tail-heavy. If you meant, "more weight than I currently have in the back of the trailer," that may be no problem at all. But if you meant, "more weight in the back of the trailer than in the front," then that is a serious problem. Never do that! The trailer must always be nose-heavy.

The issue that people are raising is whether, with the tractor loaded forward, your trailer's tongue weight exceeds your towing system's capacity. IMO, the relevant specification is likely to be the allowable tongue weight of your hitch. I was recently surprised to learn that, even though I have a Ram 2500 diesel with a hitch that is rated for 12,000 lbs (1,200 lbs tongue weight), that rating is only good with a weight-distributing system installed, and without a WD system, my hitch is only rated for 3,500 lbs (350 lbs tongue weight). In that discussion, I learned that my spec is a little lower than typical, and most trucks nowadays come with a hitch rated for between 5,000 and 10,000 lbs (500-1000 lbs tongue weight) without a WD system.

I don't see a WD system on your trailer, so I would guess your hitch's rated tongue weight is at most 1,000 lbs, and possibly more like 500 lbs. I have a 16' tandem-axle trailer similar to yours, and it weighs about 1600 lbs. Say yours is 1800 because it's an 18-footer. My tractor is also similar in weight to yours, and, with a bush-hog, comes in somewhere around 4,000-4,500 lbs. If you also have loaded wheels, say that's another 600-800 lbs give or take. All told, you may be right around 7,000 lbs (which, on my trailer, with 3,500 lb axles, would be the limit, but you may have bigger axles on your trailer).

The optimal trailer loading places about 10-15% of the trailer's weight on the tongue. For your trailer, that works out to between 700 and 1,050 lbs. This means that, best-case, if you load the trailer just right, you may be right at the edge of some of your towing system's specifications. But if your hitch is only rated for 500 lbs tongue weight without a WD system (or, heaven forbid, 350 lbs like mine is), you are exceeding the rated capacity of your system even if you load the tractor perfectly.

In reality, a perfect loading is not going to be possible, because there are only so many ways the tractor will fit onto the trailer. My hunch is that if you backed the tractor on, you would reduce the tongue weight without making the trailer tail-heavy, which would be better. But if you have loaded rears, and if the bush-hog is a heavy-duty model, that might not be the case. What you can do is, measure your truck's ride height to the top of the rear wheel well with the trailer decoupled and resting on the jack. Then couple up the trailer and raise the jack and measure the ride height again. As long as the rear of the truck goes down when the trailer is loaded, you know your trailer isn't tail-heavy. At that point, whichever loading puts the least weight on the hitch is the one I would choose. The heavier loading might make for a better ride, but I would be worried about being so close to my hitch's capacity.


Thanks for the tips. The trailer is rated at 10,000 lbs. I don't have loaded tires so that doesn't figure into it. I'm sure the rear of the truck went down some when I backed on but I'll check again next time.
 
   / Follow up with pics: Bushhogging with bucket on FEL #19  
Let me tell this old but true story, Back in 1975 I was on a job tearing down old 1800 watt Jacobs windmill electric generators in the Dakotas and Eastern Montana to take them back to Vermont and sell them to Hippy doomers that wanted to get off grid. One day pulling an under sized and over loaded U-haul trailer which we had loaded rear heavy(IIRC) it started swaying side to side with each sway larger then the next. Before the driver could slow down and stop the problem the pendulum swung a final circle and snapped us around and pointed us back towards where we started from. No harm done in ND with straight wide roads and nobody, not even a antelope ,coming the other way, but try that today on any busy road and you are in real trouble.
Check out your load arraignment and be sure she follows good before you commit to any busy roads or high speeds.
 
   / Follow up with pics: Bushhogging with bucket on FEL #20  
Thanks for the tips. The trailer is rated at 10,000 lbs. I don't have loaded tires so that doesn't figure into it. I'm sure the rear of the truck went down some when I backed on but I'll check again next time.

Cool. I would just like to re-iterate my recommendation that you look up the specs for your hitch as well, and clearly determine what you are allowed to tow both with and without a WD system. You may be fine, but you may also be surprised. I was!
 

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